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#1
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Change fuel fiter, car won't start
Today I changed the fule filters but then the car won't start.
First I changed the inline filter, started the car, it ran fine. Then I changed the main filter. It came with two O rings (one small and one large but I cannot find places for them and the old filter came out without them either). I filled the new filter with 8 oz of diesel kleen (this might be the mistake here). Started the car, it ran for about 5 seconds, then died. Now it wonlt start. Engine cranks but no start. It sounds like there is no fuel going into the engine. I dumped the stuff in the new filter and tied again. Same thing, no start. What could be the problem here? The car is a 1987 300TDT so it should self prime. Is there a thing as flooding in a diesel engine? Thanks. |
#2
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I took the center filter bolt out and now I can see where the two O rings go. Also it appeared the bolt has to be in a special direction to line up the fuel output from the filter to the fuel line. So I did all that but the car still does not want to start.
I compared the new filter with the old one and the old one has more holes around out edge of the filter but I do not think that would made a difference. |
#3
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I just changed my '87 300D fuel filter last weekend. I filled the new one with LubroMoly Diesel Purge, which is combustible because a large part of it is actually just diesel fuel. Diesel Purge is meant to be run in the engine as a fuel - in fact their instructions tell you to disconnect the fuel hose coming from the tank and to draw the diesel purge from a jar.
As far as I know, the only thing that will work properly for filling the new fuel filter is something that will ignite the way diesel does. If you don't have an easy source for diesel purge, I'd get some plain old diesel fuel in a can and try that. My experience after replacing the fuel filter was, first the engine started and ran for about three seconds like nothing happened. Then it stopped. I cranked again for about five seconds, and it started back up and ran continuously. Probably a small amount of air getting purged. You might be trying to inject something in the engine that won't ignite properly. I think some gasket washers may have come in a bag with the filter but I didn't use them. Of course there is the gasket rubber ring on the filter itself, a lot like a spin-on oil filter. I didn't notice or pay attention to any alignment of the holes in the bolt that secures the filter. I think it doesn't matter because all it needs is sufficient clearance to flow. (Don't know how you could align anything if you wanted to - no marks.) Ken 300D |
#4
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I took out the center bolt and visually aligned the side holes to the fuel line then put a mark on it.
Diesel Kleen is combustable and quite a few people use it this way. I am stumped. Car just won't start. I hate to try to put the old filter back because I do not think it would make a difference. Clearly it sound the engine is not getting fuel. |
#5
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Did you try holding the throttle to the floor while cranking? I changed mine last weekend and encountered the same problem. I held the pedal down while cranking and it came back to life. It's worth a try!
Tom 300 SD 300 SDL |
#6
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Ther fuel pump is definitely working as I empty the fuel filter, took it out again and it was filled with fuel. The fuel is not going from the filter to the injection pump, I think.
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#7
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Tom:
Thanks for the suggestion. Yes, I tried that as well but no start. The battery is on a 10 A charger now and I am cranking it every 10 minutes. |
#8
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It finally started.
This is strange as it took so long to prime the system? Anyway, I have pretty much finished the 30kmi service. Engine oil, tranny fluid, differential fluid, fuel filters, power steering fluid, etc. The only thing left is the self-leveling system flush. I ordered 4 liters of the MB fluid and a filter. Thank you all. |
#9
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You probably just had some air trapped in there, and it took a while to pump it out. If it's running smoothly now I wouldn't worry about it. I recently changed the filters on my SD, and pumped the h*ll out of the primer pump, so I didn't have any problem restarting. It stumbled a little for the first few seconds, then smoothed out. I'm assuming the 87 doesn't have the manual pump? I guess you just have to crank them over for a while to purge the air. Hmmm...
Mike
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_____ 1979 300 SD 350,000 miles _____ 1982 300D-gone---sold to a buddy _____ 1985 300TD 270,000 miles _____ 1994 E320 not my favorite, but the wife wanted it www.myspace.com/mikemover www.myspace.com/openskystudio www.myspace.com/speedxband www.myspace.com/openskyseparators www.myspace.com/doubledrivemusic |
#10
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mikemover:
Yes, it is running smooth now. You are right, the 87 diesles do not have the hand pump. Supposed to be self-priming. |
#11
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Yes, the later diesels don't have the primer pump, they're self-bleeding. And yes, hold the gas to the floor while cranking. Here's what always has worked for me, old or new....
Fill the new filter all the way up to the top (and I mean all the way!!) and put it on there. Crank the car over and when it catches, give it alot of throttle to keep it running and to bleed the air out. If you fill the filter up all the way, even on the old diesels, you will not have to prime it with the hand pump.
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Regards, Aaron |
#12
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Thanks, Aaron.
It just seemed tome I had to crank a long time even though the filter was full. While I was change the filters, I think I have a couple small tips to share. 1. Inline filter. Right after removal, stuck a golf tee in there to stop the fuel flow. Minimal spill. 2. The 603 engine calls for the removal of the bracket to remove the filter. I loosened a grommet in front of the filter and wiggled it out. Had to push the upper radiator hose a bit to get it out. 3. If you want to fill the new filter with whatever, do not fill it right away. Put the filter in position, remove the center bolt. Now pour whatever into the filter through that center bolt hole and put the bolt back. No need to move the filter when it is full of something. |
#13
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Bo:
Sorry, should have warned you about the fuel filter -- the feed pump is rather small and takes FOREVER to fill the filter. My mechanic had a customer with a small fuel leak in the suction line (bad o-ring) that allowed the fuel to drain back. Ran the battery down cranking, and had a filter full of fuel! Fill that sucker all the way up -- makes a big difference. Also makes a difference to stick your foot in it when you start it with a new filter. You might want to remove the bracket so you can fill the filter from the outside holes -- that way whatever you put in it goes through the filter instead of straight into the pump. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#14
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Thanks, Peter.
Filling through the outside holes is a good one. Maybe I was just too concerned that the battery might drain down so I did not crank more than 10 seconds at a time at 10 minute intervals. While not cranking, the battery was on 10 A charger and when I cranked it, I switched to 55A engine start. Everything is normal and no harm is done while a lesson is learned. Now I know, it does take a long time to put fuel and squeeze out the air in the system. At least I have a year to go without worrying about it. I used a hammer to crack the inline filter. It looked dark and fond a few small grains of sand trapped in it. This is a rather cheap filter so I will change as soon as I see dark color. |
#15
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Thanks to all
last weekend i change my filter and my e300 would start. i filled the filter and did everything else suggested, but after reading the posts i realize filling the filter though the bolt hole is the answer thanks again
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Ricali 03 C240 4matic wagon 95 300E 234,000 7 prior 240;s 5 still going 81 300sd gone 65 230sl gone 49 Studebaker Champion 90BMW convert.167,000 60 Dodge D-100 |
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