Electrical end finally quit starting the car. Jumping to the solenoid terminal on the starter works. Just no voltage from the key starter. So I have a new switch to install. Got the panel out, found the hole for the paperclip, and depressed it (felt the resistance and subsequent movement), but the ring doesn't want to unscrew. It moves a bit but not unscrewing. I've tried slip jaw pliars, but don't want to get brutal and destroy the ring.

Any suggestions?

John Bonds
'82 240D 4sp, 200k, daily driver
Mount Pleasant SC

There is no other way short of starting with a cut off tool and cutting and tearing it out of the dash. Perhaps a larger pin, find the largest piece of wire or paper clip that you can get in there and push until it backs up far enough to turn the cover cap which holds it in place. I might suggest a stout paper clip held by a small vise grip might give you the push it needs.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Removal and Installation of Steering Lock. You can download from zshare.

46-640.pdf - 2.69MB

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1985 300D Turbo
"Evolution is God's way of giving upgrades" Francis Collins

Cancel my Mayday. Got it out by putting a lanyard on the key and pulling gently while turning by hand. Came right loose and right off. Yea!

jb

Thanks for the new and original technique!

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Continuing saga of replacing the ignition switch: Got the front cover off, and unplugged the electrical end without difficulty. I cannot locate the pin required to disengage the "stalk" going into the steering column. The pictures and diagrams aren't very helpful with this. I've taken the clamp bolt right out and it will move around on the shaft, and the shaft will rotate about 10degrees, but it will not come out. Seems to be metal-to-metal contact when it is attempted. There is a bit of play in that axial movement (in and out of the column), but not much.

With respect to the stalk that goes into the column, where on a clock face is that pin hole located? Visibility is not great in there, and I'm trying with mirrors, lights and lots of patience to find it--with no success.

Help?

John Bonds '82 240D 4sp, 200k, daily driver
Mount Pleasant SC

If it was the Lock Tumbler that was bad and you were able to get that out I thought that it is supposed to function normal after you installed the new Tumbler. Meaning that you stick the key in and turn it and that unlocks the Steering Colum.

I suppose it could be somethine else that failed inside of the Steering Colum Lock.

See the pics and find which type you have. The locking pin you need to push is #10 in the pics.
From the Manual: (The lock tumbeler is alread installed and the Key is in the #1 position.)
On both versions loosen the Clamping Screws of that Fastening clamp.

Push-in locking pin #10 for steering lock by means of a 3mm dia. punch. Tur key to positon "O" and pull out.

Attention! The locking pin can be pushed down only with the Key in position "1" of the Steering lock.

Attached Thumbnails

     

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Roger, sir, and thank you for chiming in.

The problem is, I can't locate the pin (#10 on the diagram). Just can't find it, using mirrors, fingers and eyes. Not much room in there, of course. The pics of grinding out the pin suggest a round pin, and show it sticking out of the barrel of the "stalk" that is welded to the steering column. I don't find anything that resembles that. The parts that stick up from the shaft seem to be square, and aren't interested in depressing.

The photos and diagrams suggest that the pin is at about an 11 o'clock position on the shaft from the perspective of the steering column, with 12:00 being directly up. That means that the button can't be seen.

My next approach is to drop the steering column out to get more visibility. I hesitated to do that, as there are a lot of electrical connections going into that column. But I don't have many options left. Gotta get that lock out of the column to replace the switch.

It's kickin' my ass, of course. Revenge for all those B-17s, perhaps...

jb

John, do you have the instrument cluster out? Impossible to get at without removing it. Then from under the dash there are 2 10mm screws, (quite long) one on each side of the column. Remove those two screws and drop the column about 2 inches and with the speedo section out, you can see it and get a dremel tool into it to grind it out. It is not a nice finish "BB" type, just a wart sitting in a hole. It takes about 5 minutes to grind the darn thing out with the dremel.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

I hope nobody minds but I am not getting something. I am not sure what is being changed?
Was it the Key Tumbler (#5 and #6 assembled) that is being changed because it is no good or is it #7 that is no good and needs changing (despite the Factor description this is that part I would call #7 the Ignition Switch)?

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

In my case, the key tumbler works fine. It is the switch that isn't working--so the car won't start. I have to be able to remove that thing--which has screws with points facing aft--so you cannot get to them without removing the whole lock assembly.

Roger on dropping the steering column. I had concluded that was the next step--reluctantly, as there are a LOT of wires going into that column, and I wanted to avoid stretching them. But I see no option. Stay tuned. I'll crawl back in there in a few minutes (just home from school...).
jb

John,

I dont have a w123 so I cant help you with the release button. But I did have to replace middle mechanical section (not the tumbler nor the switch)(ignition lock? maybe)on my W124 I dont remember there being an issue with finding the release button though. It was accessible without removing column nor cluster. Ok so the whole reason for my post was I thought the switch was bad but it wasnt. It was the T-shaped post (aluminum)from the mechanical section to the switch had broken allowing the accessories to be powered up but not engage starter when turned to start position. Original switch was fine and still in service. Either way ignition assembly has to come out to get to the screws for switch. Sorry about the lack of info on your current removal hitch but just wanted to pass on my experience.

Arlo

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W211 E550
HVAC/R Certified Technician

Got it out! Dropping the steering column was the key to finding that elusive clit. Here's a picture of its location at about the 4 O'Clock position from the steering column, with 12 at TCD. The good news is that my pin was still movable, and responded to a few taps with a cut off 10p nail and hammer.
Now we'll install the new switch, etc. and see if this does the trick.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Latest: Fault is in the drive shaft for the ignition switch. The "ears" on the shaft that engage the switch are damaged--one gone entirely, the other mangled. Equals new lock housing (ouch!), but that's an essential part, and this one lasted 28 years. A new one should still be working when someone inherits this car. Part's on order with Phil. I'll report on the installation and test when it gets here.
jb

Thanks for the great pic. The real thing does not match the pics from the Manual?

So I learned you need to remove the whole Steering Wheel Lock because you cannot get at the Screws on the Ignition Switch and that Steering Wheel Lock also needs to be off in order to inspect it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel