Hey guys,

I recently acquired a Nardi steering wheel which I will be putting on Norm. However I am unable to get the bolt that holds the steering wheel off!

Is there a trick to this such as heating the bolt? It's gotten to the point where the metal surrounding the bolt is bending and I don't want to ruin it. Would using an impact wrench help? I'm dying to get this thing off!!

Thanks!

First off do not use the steering lock to hold the wheel in place....

Have someone hold the wheel while you try to loosen the bolt. I haven't ever heard of someone not being able to get it off...

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

^Yeah I'm not, however I'm using my knee which obviously isn't working too well.

I have tried everything from a breaker bar to a drill with a socket attachment. I'm at the point where I don't think anything but an impact wrench will get it off.

There isn't any loctite type stuff on the bolt is there?

No I haven't ever seen any loctite on the steering wheel nut.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Didn't think so. Only reason I ask is because the new replacement bolt has it on there.

Off to Harbor Freight I gooooooo.....

hmm thats weird, I haven't ever seen it on any of original bolts.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I'm almost positive my original bolt had blue loctite on it. I've had it out twice before but it's been a while.

__________________


~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Try giving the breaker bar a good smack with a large rubber hammer, while someone holds the wheel, of course, also try an impact wrench, get a little "PB Blaster" down there first.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

I think it did have blue Loctite on it. It's been sometimes a hard one to get off, but I've always succeeded.

I've always used the steering lock and not has a problem.For the amount of force I've had to apply at times, no one would be able to hold the wheel. It can take a lot to break it loose. I've had a 3 foot breaker bar on it and had to give it everything before.

I might even had to put a 6' cheater on it once.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I just did this a week ago, and posted it here.

I had all the same problems. And I tried my 400 ft/lb air wrench.

This is what worked:

My 1980 is what is considered a type 2 in the factory manual.
It has a 10mm hex allen (not a 22mm nut like mid 70's).
For sure it had never been removed before.
It is held with blue loctite.

Minimum 2 foot breaker bar, 3 inch extension, 10mm hex.

Believe it or not, the manual (I have a printed copy from the dealer)
says to let the steering lock do the holding for you. I did not want to either, but the book says yes.

I did this by myself.

Seat the 10mm deep and firm, let the breaker bar rest on the wheel.
Take out all the slack, press firmly on the breaker bar and slowly turn
the nut.

If you have the 22mm nut from type 1 I am sure it will work the same, but I recommend a 6 sided socket, not a 12 point.

How to remove W123 Steering wheel

__________________
80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs
83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day
02 Z71 Suburban 117,000
15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles
00 Harley Sportster 24k
09 Yamaha R6
03 Ninja 250

I certainly would prefer to use FAST (Impact) rather than slow force on this type thing...also, Kroil is a good prep... but won't help if the locktite is in good shape..
and I use a rolled sheet or two through the steering wheel (one each direction holding the spokes of the wheel ) to the door on the other side to hold it gently... blue locktite should not put much actual additional force requirement into this equation.. now RED... that would be different on a large nut or bolt ... but on a small bolt even red bearing and stud locktite only adds about five ft lbs of torque to getting it loose... and often that will be less than if the nut or bolt had been there rusting in place instead...
Locktite's main advantage is that unlike a lock washer.. which has no effect after part of a turn in the undoing direction... Locktite continues to work against vibration loosening .. all the time those coated threads are in contact.......

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

the trick is to hammer the extension and the allen attachment into the bolt for a good five minutes, and use the largest breaker bar (6' if necessary like the last guy) to get it out. if you lock the steering wheel, there is no need to have someone hold it for you. i've never had any help with someone holding a steering wheel--all mb wheels lock if you turn them enough, so that's not a necessary step.

__________________

If that amount of force breaks/bends/binds the steering wheel lock pin a person would have a huge job fixing it... and an unnecessary one... which is even worse.

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

i've removed probably 50 mercedes steering wheels using that method with no damage to the lock pin. so there goes that theory...

__________________

Would have been fine stopping after the first sentence. It is the second sentence that places you in the land of

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John