Did a search, but couldn't find a definitive answer. Can anyone tell me what the correct idle speed for an 83 300D is? Also could someone point me to instructions on how to properly adjust the idle. I would assume it involves adjusting the linkage rods. but since there are several rods, I would like to know the correct procedure.

Many Thanks,

Glenn

That's it, you need a very deep 14mm socket, at least that's what I use, to loosen the lock nut and a screw driver to turn the screw. Clockwise will increase, ccw will decrease the rpm, you're looking for around 750.

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Danke!!

Thats the idle adjust screw...uh-oh...that bracket is broken on my injection pump. Probably why it idles so low.

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1982 300SD--251,151
2001 Ford f-150 4x4--347,034

I guess with a broken bracket it does not matter; but, I use a 14mm Crows Foot and Screw Driver on the idle adjust screw.

If you live in the US and it is still visable the idle speed info is on the Emission Sticker along with the Valve Clearances. Up by the Top Radiator support.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I need replacement stickers. They are all missing on my car.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Got her idling at about 750 RPM....Sounds much better than the 450 she was at.

Thanks all

Whoo Hoo!!

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Does anyone know a way to verify the tachometer accuracy on the 300d? I did some work on it and just want to use it for the idle adjustment.

Usually they work, or jump around or don't work. What work did you do on it?

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would this procedure work the same on an 87 300TD? my ELR doesnt seem to be working properly, the knob is turned up to 7, but it idles at 450

I broke the shaft for the needle while trying to fix the clock which is on the same faceplate. So I got a tach from a w126 and put it in. I saw some of the part numbers and electrical components had different values from the original W123. Additionally I wasn't sure if the needle was put back on in the correct position. The question also arises because when cold it doesn't idle to well of course this can be attributed to many other things, but I have to calibtrate or verify the tach first so I can then set the idle rpm confidently. I thought the might be a plug in type of meter to test from the tach sending unit in the engine compartment.

^ Okay, you need to make sure you replaced the old tach with one of similar vintage. The plugs on the back will let you know.
Others will need to know the year you have and the donor year.

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