Removing the fuel tank in W123 300TD? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

fred98050 · #1 03-23-2010, 05:25 PM

My next project: Cleaning the fuel tank in my w123 300TD.

I saw the Diesel giant DIY about removing the tank in the sedan. Has anyone removed a tank in the TD? How difficult is it?

Thanks.

JB3 · #2 03-23-2010, 06:36 PM

I just did this, drops down from underneath. Pretty clear when you are down there.
I had some rust issues with some of my bracketry, which made it a PITA. Wont be near as simple as the sedan tank since its external and subject to corrosion and rust, but on the other hand, its was easier for me to disconnect most of the fill pipe stuff inside of the jack area storage.

If you have ever dropped a jeep fuel tank, or a bronco fuel tank, (classic rusters) this is almost exactly the same.

fred98050 · #3 03-23-2010, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dropnosky

I just did this, drops down from underneath. Pretty clear when you are down there.
I had some rust issues with some of my bracketry, which made it a PITA. Wont be near as simple as the sedan tank since its external and subject to corrosion and rust, but on the other hand, its was easier for me to disconnect most of the fill pipe stuff inside of the jack area storage.

If you have ever dropped a jeep fuel tank, or a bronco fuel tank, (classic rusters) this is almost exactly the same.

thanks for the info.
Never dropped a tank before....
Did you have to replace any hardware?

JB3 · #4 03-23-2010, 08:27 PM

I have not put it back yet, Im letting it air dry after washing it out before I do something about the rusty bracket. Its serving as part of a table right now

Theoretically, you should not have to replace any hardware, I have to, but if you are lucky, hopefully not

t walgamuth · #5 03-23-2010, 08:44 PM

You sure you need to drop this tank? I've only had one tank out of my 30 old benzes and that was to change it out for a larger tank.

shadetreemechan · #6 03-23-2010, 09:09 PM

I cleaned mine in place. with the sender out of the top and the strainer out of the bottom I was able to see and spray all I needed. That is another beauty of the wagon.
Just a thought to save alot of time and effort.

Scottb83 · #7 03-23-2010, 09:09 PM

I just did my 300D. It was a good thing that I diid. The tank was nasty inside. I also found a pin hole that was causing a terrible mess. Mine comes out of the trunk, but it was easy to do. Scott

fred98050 · #8 03-23-2010, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

I cleaned mine in place. with the sender out of the top and the strainer out of the bottom I was able to see and spray all I needed. That is another beauty of the wagon.
Just a thought to save alot of time and effort.

Thanks,
I don't really want to take the tank out but I thought that in order to clean it really well I'd better have to.
Now, if you were able to clean it in place....
What did you use to spray the inside? pressure washer?Hose?

After reading your post I was thinking that my RV tank sprayer might work, if it fits in the sender unit hole....

fred98050 · #9 03-25-2010, 08:47 PM

I tried cleaning without removing it but ended up taking the tank out. Not easier but much better job at cleaning and drying.

The only problem I encountered was, that one of the nut is right above the SLS bracket attached to the sway bar. Make sure you mark the position of the bracket (horizontal & vertical) for easy re-install...

On to the next project.....

shadetreemechan · #10 03-25-2010, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fred98050

Thanks,
I don't really want to take the tank out but I thought that in order to clean it really well I'd better have to.
Now, if you were able to clean it in place....
What did you use to spray the inside? pressure washer?Hose?

After reading your post I was thinking that my RV tank sprayer might work, if it fits in the sender unit hole....

I used biodiesel and a $35 dollar harbor freight pump. I rigged up somthing similar to the rv tank washer and went to it. I don't know what you are trying to clean out, I had a bacteria outbreak so nothing was stuck on very much. I finished it off with a couple of cans of carb cleaner and checked it with a dental mirror.
With the strainer out of the bottom of the tank its easy to get stuff out.

fred98050 · #11 03-26-2010, 02:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

I used biodiesel and a $35 dollar harbor freight pump. I rigged up somthing similar to the rv tank washer and went to it. I don't know what you are trying to clean out, I had a bacteria outbreak so nothing was stuck on very much. I finished it off with a couple of cans of carb cleaner and checked it with a dental mirror.
With the strainer out of the bottom of the tank its easy to get stuff out.

With the tank in place I had a hard time reaching some nasty looking area in one corner of the tank and could not get all of the product out properly even with the strainer out. If I had had more time I think that I would have left the tank in place.

Looks like biodiesel is the way to go. It really takes care of most of the deposits in there.

t walgamuth · #12 03-26-2010, 06:54 AM

I have always been able to do whatever was necessary with biocide. Put it in, it kills the bacteria and it runs through the filter and burns off.

Austin85 · #13 05-09-2013, 11:00 PM

I will be picking up a bottle of this STAR TRON FUEL TANK CLEANER for my 83 240D tank that I just picked up last week.

One of the first things I noticed my jaw dropped when I opened up the fuel cap.
It literally had rust on the inside of the cap. ( * No affiliation: Startron is made mainly for boats which naturally get wet and exposed to plenty of moisture. From there it is the best product I know of for boats. The mgr at West Marine advised me the same it is the best out there. ) Star Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment - Star Tron Tank Cleaner

So next out of curiosity I'll check the fuel sender to see how mucked up that is and go from there.

....

Austin85 · #14 05-09-2013, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JB3

........... before I do something about the rusty bracket. ..........................

Go to Home Depot for $22. pick up a qt of Corroseal. They have it in the paint section of all HDs.

It is super easy to use and converts rust back into it's original state: Iron Oxide Magnatite. Clean off grease / dirt / rinse w water let that dry - and just brush this on. When it dries black color you are done and the rust is too. I just starting doing this today to the 240D under the hood. Safe Non toxic - no fumes - non hazardous. POR 15 is a PITA .

...

vstech · #15 05-10-2013, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

I used biodiesel and a $35 dollar harbor freight pump. I rigged up somthing similar to the rv tank washer and went to it. I don't know what you are trying to clean out, I had a bacteria outbreak so nothing was stuck on very much. I finished it off with a couple of cans of carb cleaner and checked it with a dental mirror.
With the strainer out of the bottom of the tank its easy to get stuff out.

just so you all understand...

there is no algae/bacteria/fungus/buggs/etc... in your tanks... it's just broken down diesel fuel.

a good re-combiner fuel conditioner will clean out your tank by putting the asphalt back into suspension to burn... biobor will drop it all out of suspension and plug up your tank screens, starton and Diesel Clear will clean your tank, and your filters too...