The Centric Parts Front Caliper Kit (for ATE) arrived today and I am shocked to say that it has Made in the USA on the Bag!

Part number 143.35007 and it has Heat Sheilds, the 2 caliper half O-rings, the Calier Seal and the Boots. The Boots have a Metal Ring inside of the rubber on the outer edge.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Man I just bought calipers and they don't have heat shields.

Bad enough the reseal kits not having them but the calipers themselves - that's just slack.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

The repeal kits actually did have them. They got sent back already. I rethought about rebuilding them. I did the back, put rebuilds on the front. They are plated with something.

Will check back in when either gives way.

The auto stop said they have a lifetime warranty. Most likely no longer needed due to higher rubber quality.

Yesterday I insalled the Centric Front Caliper Repair Kit 143.35007 for ATE Brakes. The fit was good. I say that because I have used another kit and had issues with the Dust Boot staying in place.

Next week I will be installing Centric Rear Caliper Repair Kits 143.90011. This kit has on it assembled in the USA from Chinese, USA, Canada, UK., Germany or Korea. parts This kit for the rear ATE Brakes has no Heatshields.

Since I only have one front and one rear kit I ordered new ones for each. I will post what countries those are made in if they differ

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

They use magic fairy dust, that is why all you guys need to be so frightened of splitting the calipers. They just don't mention that in the FSM ... proprietary info.

Oh, they also have PhDs and if you do not, be frightened.... for sure.

Who says I haven't got a PhD?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Well of course its very well know you do have a PhD and ever so much more. You and Diesel911

The calipers on these cars are easy to restore and rebuild. Just did a set of rears for a Unimog, new they sell for $1200.00 each! These are just a bit harder to rebuild and require special tools to do. Now these need fairy dust to do right!

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Von
Fairport, NY
1973 Unimog 416 Doka
1980 Unimog 416 Doka
1981 Unimog 416 Doka
1984 Euro 280CE w/diesel conversion
1985 300TD Estate wagon
(I really need to stop buying these things!)
http://vonsmog.com

Just for clerification I went to Trade School to be a Diesel Mechanic and worked in that field for about 18 years till my body got messed up in a Car accident.

I then when to College and got an AS Degree in Respiratory Car so I could be a Respiratory Therapost (oddly it is also college considered vocational).

Then of course there is my own vehicles I have worked on since 1969.

The main reason I joined this forum was to learn and I do learn from this forum.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

however, in the context of this forum, you and stretch are the wizened older guys, and that is even better than a Phd

Another method to remove a stuck piston: use a grease gun. On those grease guns with a lever ..... they push the grease out at high pressure .... maybe over 10000 psi , don't remember exactly how much, a lotl

Remove the female nipple on the tip of the grease gun that fits on a zerk fitting, the threads at the end of the out put pipe on the grease gun are the same as the brake fluid input threads on the calipers. So screw it right on to the brake fluid input of the caliper and start pumping. That will put A LOT of force on the piston. I never saw a piston it wouldn't push out.

Its a greasy mess .... you can reduce that mess by filling the caliper with water first. Lots easier to clean up ... and .... incompressable.

Splitting the brake calipers makes it a lot easier, a lot, to do a good rebuild.

My W123 Calipers have 2 postons. When using the grease pressure method what do you do when only one piston comes out leaving the other Piston still stuck?

Of course it is better to have 1/2 of a problem then a whole one.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I want to add, wear eye protection, I was glad I did when using this method yesterday. Grease, resudual brake fluid, or water can end up coming right at you forcefully, remaining air pockets can be, in a sense, explosive. I drape a rag over the whole caliper to dampen, absorb flying brake fluid water grease while applying air pressure when using it instead of grease gun

Determine which piston is stuck, push the one that popped out easily or moves easily back in,

use a c clamp or devise a method to immobilize the piston that moves easily, then apply force with the grease gun or air compressor, and the force will be delivered to the stuck piston, yesterday I was amazed, the force may have damaged my c clamp it was a pretty serious amout of force, I opened the bleeder screw and grease was squirting out, I repositioned the c clamp and gave it another round of force with the grease gun. The process permanently tweaked the C clamp

After the stuck piston moved out some distance, I used some controlled blows with a pin punch plus hammer, on the leading edge of the piston, it has a rim the retains the rubber boot and allows pin punch force at a 45 degee angle do part of the force moves the piston out, part pushes it sidewise, back and forth one side then the other to get it the rest of the way out. I wanted to minimize grease use, its a messy clean up, once it was far enough out to get at it.

Place something soft, wood, rubber, i used a bit of rag yesterday .... so the pistons arent damaged if they strike one another with force due to residual compressed air pockets , also that can happen if air pressure is used, the grease force is much more controlled all by itself , unless pockets of air in the caliper are compressed , and is much messier if water isn't filling most of the caliper, air pockets inside the caliper continue to exert possible a lot of force, can break loose suddenly in an uncontrolled way

I go thru all this to rebuild the calipers for the cost of the few little parts in the rebuild kits. I see ********eAZ has new Ate calipers for $300 or so.

data for owners.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/