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  #16  
Old 09-03-2009, 02:05 PM
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Drag link is a static piece - its the same length and has no adjustments.

So there's no need to check alignment after putting a new one in.

dd

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  #17  
Old 09-03-2009, 02:13 PM
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Right, as long as the old piece and new piece have the same overall length. I guess the manufacturing tolerances aren't enough to mess up the alignment? That's nice, I was thinking I needed to go to the alignment shop when I had the new link in.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2009, 11:29 PM
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The drag link can affect the steering-wheel center, but not the alignment. If you get it together and the steering wheel is off-center when driving straight and level, your drag link is slightly longer/shorter than the previous one and this can be corrected by changing the tie-rod adjustment. Turning both tie-rods the exact same amount (shortening one and lengthing the other exactly the same amount) should in theory not affect the alignment / toe.
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2009, 11:28 AM
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That's interesting. I let you all know what happens this weekend!
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2009, 12:56 PM
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Larry Bible likes to smack the ring holding the rod end with a big hammer. This deforms the ring enough to cough out the rod end. An alternative method is to use a clamp type rod end remover like -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99849

Either the joint will give as you tighten the remover, or the added tension and a hammer smack will do it. Leave the nut loose on the stud so the whole thing doesn't come flying apart.

Have you checked the idler arm bushings?

Sixto
87 300D
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  #21  
Old 09-04-2009, 01:33 PM
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I just put a MOOG center link on my 123- the box it came out of said "Made in Germany"

I prefer the clamp type tools, as in the HF link. I got one from Napa for under $30.
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  #22  
Old 09-04-2009, 02:09 PM
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Other parts look good. How do you tell if the idler arm needs a rebuild?

You know, the steering gear on this car is pretty simple and the parts seems to be easy to replace. Not like my other vehicles with rack and pinion.

Why did MB use this design...for ease of service? Replacing a rack and pinion is no easy thing and expensive too.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #23  
Old 09-04-2009, 02:11 PM
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I already have a nice new pickle fork from replacing my Ford Explorer upper ball joints. I'm going to use it at first...if I have problems I'll go over to NAPA.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #24  
Old 09-05-2009, 02:18 PM
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Just got back from a test drive with the new drag link. The steering is much tighter and no clunk-clunk now when I turn the wheel.

It was easy to change...I had to rig up about 2 feet of extensions to get access to the nuts from above within the engine compartment.

Thanks everyone for the tips.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #25  
Old 11-13-2009, 11:29 AM
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The new drag link has been in for a month or two now with no problems.

This weekend I am installing right and left tie rods.

I am hoping to roll the front end up on my ramps and remove the tie rods with the tires on. Can you remove the outer tie rod nuts with out removing the wheel?

I don't trust jack stands enough to get under the car with them. A guy down the street was killed a few years ago when he was crushed under his car using them.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png

Last edited by Oldwolf; 11-13-2009 at 12:22 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:17 PM
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Never re-use those nuts. They are one-time-use only.
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  #27  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:23 PM
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Yup. The new tie rods have nuts on them.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #28  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:42 PM
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It is much easier to access the tie rods with the wheels removed. I use 3 ton "ratchet type" jack stands. I had them from when I had a 3/4 ton crew cab Chevy P/U.
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  #29  
Old 11-13-2009, 01:44 PM
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It's gonna be tight with factory offset wheels (48/49mm?). You won't get a square shot with a big hammer if you choose the Larry Bible method.

FWIW, I've had a ramp deform as I drove up on it.

Since you'll need an alignment after replacing the tie rods, see what the alignment shop will charge to install your new tie rods. Unless you're going to the dealer for an alignment.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #30  
Old 11-13-2009, 11:10 PM
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Replacing both tie rods was a easy job after all. I jacked one side up at a time, turned the steering wheel full turn, removed the wheel, and all the tie rod bolts where easy access. My pickle fork popped them out fairly easily. Didn't have to get under the car at all. Used the clamp method to approximate the set up of the old tie rods. Had both sides finished in less that 3 hours. Tomorrow I go to the alignment shop.

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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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