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  #1  
Old 05-30-2009, 02:04 AM
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Six switchover valves for AC W126

Hi all,
In my 1984 300SD I have six switchover valves for the
climate control. The vacuum diagrams I've seen only show five,
I guess for a W123?

Can anyone tell me what the six valves go to and
which climate control buttons activate them?

Thanks,
Jeff

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  #2  
Old 05-30-2009, 03:42 AM
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There are two for recirculation, one each for defrost, center vent, diverter and footwell.

The buttons don't directly control the actuators. It's more a combination of mode/button setting and cabin temperature. 0 is all vents closed when the engine's running. Defrost is only defrost vent open. Total ventilation, bi-level and economy are a mix.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #3  
Old 05-30-2009, 09:27 AM
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From the top, the six switchover valves control the following vacuum pods:

1) Defrost
2) Legroom
3) Center nozzle
4) Scoop
5) Main air door, large stroke
6) Main air door, small stroke
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  #4  
Old 05-30-2009, 11:54 AM
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I am constantly amazed with the collective knowledge of this forum.
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  #5  
Old 05-30-2009, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Hi all,
The vacuum diagrams I've seen only show five,
I guess for a W123?
The W123 with ACC has five switchover valves; W126 has six.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Can anyone tell me what the six valves go to and
which climate control buttons activate them?
It's not that simple. The center flap and recirc flap are controlled by the temp control unit, not by the push buttons directly.

Last edited by tangofox007; 05-30-2009 at 03:24 PM.
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  #6  
Old 05-30-2009, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rooster300SD View Post
Hi all,
In my 1984 300SD I have six switchover valves for the
climate control. The vacuum diagrams I've seen only show five,
I guess for a W123?

Can anyone tell me what the six valves go to and
which climate control buttons activate them?

Thanks,
Jeff
w126 FSM disc is your friend
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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2009, 02:10 PM
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Thanks Brian for the very helpful info.
Found three bad switchovers.
I still can't get #6 to behave correctly
even though I know it's a good valve.

I'm still chasing everything down because
my defrost flaps refuse to shut!

I've tested and replaced all the bad pods.
Guess I'll just recheck everything.

Anyways, thanks to all,

Jeff
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2009, 02:35 PM
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Jeff ---

Please post your results.....I have some investigative work to do on Coda in the near future.
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Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2009, 02:50 PM
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Note also the defrost and recirculation actuators have two chambers each. They can be fully open, ajar and closed.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2009, 06:26 PM
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Question

While we're on this, anyone had a problem with a leaking hose or connector boot?

I replaced these pods (well the three dual stroke units) in my SDL and I almost get fully closed on defrost but not 100%. I've just disconnected at the lever and made the main flapper open only to center vents.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

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  #11  
Old 05-30-2009, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
I replaced these pods (well the three dual stroke units) in my SDL and I almost get fully closed on defrost but not 100%. I've just disconnected at the lever and made the main flapper open only to center vents.
I have similar issues. It's not related to the pod or the lever. I believe the gasket material around the door is toast and some leakage is inevitable. It's not an issue, typically, unless the leakage on the glass cools it to the point where condensation occurs on the outside of the glass (compressor running of course).

This situation manifests itself when the door is fully open because the pod is toast.
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  #12  
Old 05-30-2009, 07:50 PM
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After replacing the pods for the main flap behind
the glovebox, the flap would not close all the way.

I fixed this by adjusting the small arm coming from
the front of the car to the arm connecting the two pods.

The arm is threaded. I popped the arm off its joint and adjusted
the length of the arm until the door closed completely when
vacuum was applied to the pods.

Same idea with my defroster vent. After replacing the faulty
switchover valve (#1 on my 84 300SD) the pod was working
correctly and was pulling and holding vacuum but was not
pulling the flaps all the way shut.

I removed the pod and simply bent the metal arm in such a
way so that it was a bit shorter. After reinstalling the pod,
the defroster flaps are closing completely.

All this was done with the dash removed.

Happy vacuum leak hunting
and thanks for all the help.
Jeff
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  #13  
Old 05-30-2009, 11:33 PM
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Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
I have similar issues. It's not related to the pod or the lever. I believe the gasket material around the door is toast and some leakage is inevitable. It's not an issue, typically, unless the leakage on the glass cools it to the point where condensation occurs on the outside of the glass (compressor running of course).

This situation manifests itself when the door is fully open because the pod is toast.


That doesn't irk me as much as the loss of air volume when it's any temperature over 80°F down in my area.

The following post may be something worth trying.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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