Unsticking a stuck diesel - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

cmbdiesel · #16 05-29-2009, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

You know the number..

What!! I just read through this thread, knowing that WHunter had the final post, just knowing I was in for another bit of useful knowledge (not that the other contributors didn't do that, but Whunter is generally an unimpeachable source) then, the big let down......

Strelnik, you gotta let us know the rest of the story.

Got some great ideas for my old lawnmower though...

whunter · #17 05-29-2009, 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cmbdiesel

What!! I just read through this thread, knowing that WHunter had the final post, just knowing I was in for another bit of useful knowledge (not that the other contributors didn't do that, but Whunter is generally an unimpeachable source) then, the big let down......

Strelnik, you gotta let us know the rest of the story.

Got some great ideas for my old lawnmower though...

Sorry.

He is local, and I expect this one is next on the list to visit.

More data after diagnosis.

strelnik · #18 05-29-2009, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Sorry.

He is local, and I expect this one is next on the list to visit.

More data after diagnosis.

No Roy, this is just a fun project for me, the 220D hiding at Ken's runs like a champ.

This is another extra thing, just like the electric dentist chair, the milking machine, the bubble gum making machine and the stuffed aardvark.

jkubica · #19 05-29-2009, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strelnik

I am buying a diesel (OM615) that has sat under cover for several years but ran well when it was in a car. It was removed because the body rotten tho' the drive train was good. It is now sticking.

I'd be interested in all the suggestions for what to do before attempting to unstick it.

The obvious things are:
1. Change all oil and oil filter
2. Change all fuel filters and reprime
3. Check and or change the glow plugs
4. Drain and refill the oil sump in the injection pump.

I have been advised that the only thing to do is use lot of WD40 in the cylinders after removing the injectors, and I have some doubts about that.

Others have said I MUST pull the head.

I favor adding a thin oil to every cylinder for about a week through the injector ports with a long injector-type oil can and slowly turning by hand.

Others have suggested using Rislone instead of oil, still others Ford ATF (Type F) because of its higher detergent content, compared to Dexron.

Whaddaya think?

I'm sure this thread will provide some good advice and some good discussion.

Thanks,
S (still looking for a running OM 636 for the 170DS to be)

Hi

Years back I had a shop where we restored old engines from Model Ts, Model As -antique farm tractors etc. It was common to run into engines that hadn't been run for decades and were stuck tight.

One trick that worked well was to squirt WD40 into all the cylinders and then pressurize the cylinders one by one with compressed air.

We did it by taking an old spark plug, removing the porcelen and brazing an air fitting to it. Then we would screw it into the head and attach the air line to pressurize the cylinder.

Being careful we would start out with 50 pounds of air and work our way up as needed.. First, the air pressure would force the WD40 past the rings and as the engine became freeer the pistons would begin moving until the engine was completely free.

This worked much better than removing the head and trying to move the pistons with a block of wood and hammer.

Good Luck,

Joseph

t walgamuth · #20 05-31-2009, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbobenz

I would try penetrating oil and a crowbar on the starter teeth like someone else suggested.

If that fails, 24volts to the starter

This sounds like an excellent way to break a bell housing. I would do it but only with a moderately sized large screwdriver.

Gene Horr · #21 05-31-2009, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkubica

One trick that worked well was to squirt WD40 into all the cylinders and then pressurize the cylinders one by one with compressed air.

That's an idea that could address my main worry. You get the piston(s) unstuck but then you have the rings scrapping unlubricated down the sides of the walls with iron oxide for grit to help the process on those pistons on the down strokes.

On reversing the engine, thanks for the info Diesel911. I had read that portion and it completely slipped my mind.

tonkovich · #22 05-31-2009, 10:22 PM

[QUOTE=strelnik;

This is another extra thing, just like the electric dentist chair, the milking machine, the bubble gum making machine and the stuffed aardvark.

[/QUOTE]

now you're talking. how much for the aardvark?

jkubica · #23 05-31-2009, 11:15 PM

Just like you guys say: All y'all

[/QUOTE]

For those who may wonder:

"All y'all" is the grammaticatically correct plural form of "y'all"

cmbdiesel · #24 05-31-2009, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jkubica

Hi

Years back I had a shop where we restored old engines from Model Ts, Model As -antique farm tractors etc. It was common to run into engines that hadn't been run for decades and were stuck tight.

One trick that worked well was to squirt WD40 into all the cylinders and then pressurize the cylinders one by one with compressed air.

We did it by taking an old spark plug, removing the porcelen and brazing an air fitting to it. Then we would screw it into the head and attach the air line to pressurize the cylinder.

Being careful we would start out with 50 pounds of air and work our way up as needed.. First, the air pressure would force the WD40 past the rings and as the engine became freeer the pistons would begin moving until the engine was completely free.

This worked much better than removing the head and trying to move the pistons with a block of wood and hammer.

Good Luck,

Joseph

That sounds like a great idea.

compress ignite · #25 06-01-2009, 03:30 AM

1.Take injectors out
2.Spray AeroKroil (Or pour Kroil) into the Injector (Pre-chamber) holes 2-4 Oz each. http://www.kanolabs.com/google/
3.Let the Engine sit for 3-5 days.
4.Turn the engine with a Ratchet on the Crankshaft Bolt
(In the direction of Normal rotation ONLY!) ,through 2-3 revolutions.
5.'With Engine free use Starter to rotate engine (With the Injectors still removed) to blow out remaining Kroil.
6.'Change Oil and Filter ,re-install injectors and run engine as normally.