Taking out the cluster is only a big deal the first time you do it. I remember the feeling of dread the first time. Now, it's like nothing. I've had the cluster in and out a hundred times - to swap gauges, add grounds, swap faces, repair clock, install electric door locks, replace expansion valve, replace vacuum pods, repurpose economy gauge to boost gauge, install switches, replace coupler, replace bulbs, remove old alarm system, and so on. Taking the cluster itself apart the first time can be intimidating too, but it's also no big deal.

You may have one hassle I don't have and that's a mechanical oil pressure gauge and mechanical speedo (you don't state your vehicle so it's hard to tell).

If you want to practice, go out to the junk yard and pull some clusters...and grab a sender and gauge while you're at it.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Mine is a 85 300sd I've had the cluster out in my 300d but I don't know how to fix the gauge its self that's why I was wondering how to put an aftermarket one I'm. Because it seems to me that mine is broke. So I was curious if anyone knew if I could by an aftermarket gauge that would hook up to then stock temp sensor or if I would have to replace it to. If I knew how to fix gauge I would give it a shot. but I don't want to have to buy a new cluster.
Thanks in advance

Also I don't know if this matters but my fuel gauge also jumps up and down and then shows the currect reading the jumps up and down again. I belive the problem is in the cluster. I hear there is a way to ground it or re solder if so could some one explain?

Get a solid ground set up first. That may fix your problems, and even if it doesn't it will prevent future ones. That's just a common fix that needs to be done with these old cars.

Go to the junk yard and pick up a cluster for your car. An entire cluster will be about $30. That will give you spares of everything. The cluster consists of three sections. Take out all the screws on the back and the three pieces will lift right out. To replace your temp gauge, just pop off the needles of each of the gauges in that section (use two spoons with a bit of paper to keep from scratching the gauge face). Make notes about the needle positions so you can get them back on properly. Remove the gauge face plate. Then each gauge is attached with a couple of screws from the back.

If you need to remove the clock, the ground is soldered so that will need to be heated to get the clock out. If you need to replace the tach, you'll need to splice the wires.

Everything is pretty much self-evident as you get into it.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

Okay so I could possibly fix the one I have by "setting up a solid ground" how do I do this where do I ground on the cluster and were do I ground on the car.
thanks for your time im just not to sure on this electrical stuff.

Ok I think im going to try to fix the ground behind the cluster. I was told the temp gauge and the fuel gauge share the same one but im wondering how to fix this?

You could run a jumper from the gauge mounting stud (on the rear of the circuit board) to chassis ground. (This applies to the gauge case ground, not the primary operating circuit, which is grounded through the respective sensor.)

You could also check for continuity in the existing circuit, to confirm that a problem actually exists.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

in the process of trying to get the cluster out yesterday the fuel gauge jumped back to where it should and temp was working so i left it be. Came back out today and it wasn't working. I do believe it is a ground issue but I can't get the cluster out.

What seems to be the hang-up?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I got the cluster out. All the grounds look okay to me I may be wrong. I did the best I could to take some pics of inside the housing. See anything out of the normal?
http://s7.postimg.org/570w3zyh7/2014_01_19_09_18_04_477.jpg
http://s2.postimg.org/jzp2rkgl5/2014_01_19_09_17_47_575.jpg
http://s29.postimg.org/4v776lcon/2014_01_19_09_17_55_226.jpg

You can't tell whether a ground is good by looking at it. Just run a new wire from the cluster to a new ground point. There is a 92.68% chance that that will fix your problem.

Note S29 is not a ground.

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

It could be the grounds on the cluster PCB. Take out the 2 nuts (I think they are 8 mm) and wire brush the corrosion away, then solder it well before putting the nuts back on. While you are at it, wire brush and solder the other riveted connections. After 30 years, riveted electrical connections can go bad from corrosion.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Okay so would a good spot to ground it be where all the brow wires are located or where thoes 2 black wires are ?

brown is ground (easy to remember).

You can tell because it is an insulated connector...probably 12v for something.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica