Ah, that makes more sense. Still, the picture and description are opposite of the way mine was orientated on the car, and the way the manual depicts it above.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Would installing the carrier "backwards" cause driveline vibration?
I replaced mine and put in the new one according to my Haynes manual.
I now have a wicked vibration that starts at about 40 mph and peaks at about 55 mph. Very annoying.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

I did my driveshaft about two weeks ago. Here is a link to a thread I started. Has some good pictures. I copied some of the pictures and the step by step write up and took it with when we did the shaft.

QUESTION ON FLEX DISK CHANGE


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1984 MB 300SD Turbo

Thanks, the extra pics helped ... and they jibe with the manual pic I posted and the way my support was assembled when I took it off. The "shoulder" on the support is closer to the front of the car. The "V" points toward the rear.

That high school wrestling newspaper page in the pics reminds me of the old newspaper I used to work at .. yikes.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

The diagram of the direction of the carrier bearing support is correct. The V fold points toward the rear.

The cir-clip has bent tabs. The proper installation of the cir-clip is with the bent-down tabs toward the ring in front of the u-joint.

If the halves of the DS need to be separated or not depends upon the model (engine type).

Removal of the 46mm nut can be accomplished with just one 46mm wrench (or one big adjustable). Just have a helper inside the car press on the brake or select Park (auto trans) each time you rotate the DS while losening the nut.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

my '84 300d is making a thump thump thump sound, 16 to 19 mph, under acceleration. doesn't seem to matter what gear.
my lead foot makes it worse.
is this a symptom of carrier bearing failure?

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'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)

fruitcakesa,

An Old Arthur Dalton trick is to roll the chassis back and forth 10-15 feet on it's
wheels BEFORE tightening the Clamping 46MM nut.(It "Settles" the driveline.)

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

brihawali,

'Also might be one of the flex discs.

Ignore things that go Thump,Thump,Thump at your own risk!

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

the bearing was fine.
the holder was shredded.
both renewed,
thump gone.

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'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)

Actually this isn't a trick at all. I don't know why MB doesn't mention this in the W123 maintenance library, but it's in the W114/115 manual. And the rolling, by just a couple of feet, should be done a few times with both the 46mm nut and center support not tight. Then tighten the nut followed by the center support.

This procedure must be done, followed by the tightenings, with the car on its wheels. If the procedure is not done, the amount of difference is minute and any stress can usually be taken up through the rubber center support - it's quite flexable. Omitting this procedure will not cause any drive-line vibration.

__________________

Don't Chrome them; polish them

I just did the carrier bearing swap, and it took me about 3 hours. I was able to easily slide on the new bearing after heating it up in boiling water, and sliding it on a frozen shaft end, no pounding at all.

Does the car really have to be on it's wheels and roll back and forth, or I can just take the shortcut by just spinning the wheels a couple of times, clockwise and counter while the car is up on jack stands?

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

This is not a recommendation not to do the rolling thing. But, when I did mine a few weeks ago I had the Car on Ramps in the Front and Blocks under the Back Wheels. The Ramps kept me from rooling the Car.

I tightened up the Coupling Nut and did not roll the Car. I figured If any problem showed up I would go back and loosen the Coupling Nut an Roll the Car.

Part of the reason for not rolling the Car was my Wrench is a over 2.5 foot long combination Wrench; no room to tighten or loosen anything while the Car sits on the Wheels and I was in a big hurry to test drive the Car because I had also changed the B2 Piston and wanted to know if that part of the job worked.

So as it turned out I am having no issues with the Driveshaft or vibration and will leave it alone for now.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I didn't do the rolling either.
Also probably misaligned the splines,
as I had rubbed off my marks.
(don't use a wax pencil)
All seems fine, couple thousand miles later...

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'85 300DT 170K
'99 R1100RS 63K
'84 300DT 126K ate her own camshaft
'83 300DT 252K executed by non-driver
'68 F-100 138K sold (why?)

Frybenz,

I would like to know the Long Term results of your Bearing Installation Method.

"I just did the carrier bearing swap, and it took me about 3 hours. I was able to easily slide on the new bearing after heating it up in boiling water, and sliding it on a frozen shaft end, no pounding at all."

(Say in about 20K miles)

Thanks!

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128