Yes Tom, my spin filter needs replacing after that (even at 48*) ...remember, after all, I'm in the Showme state.

However, sounds like Enviro stuff warrants further research and I'll keep it on the radar.

__________________
Bama1


2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane"
2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy"
1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans
1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude"

1954 model original owner - ~2.5M
Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis

48 seems impossible too.

__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

There is a guy on E-Bay that sell all kinds of DVD`s on how to fix/repair the W123 and W126. every thing from replacing the starter,valve adjustment. vacuum repair etc...

They also have one on replacing the R4 compressor to a sanden compressor. A how to on making the brackets, run the lines etc...

They also show how to install a parrell flow condensor.


The seller goes by the name of SYMBOLGUY. the Item is listed as
Mercedes GM R4 to Sanden Compressor upgrade
$19.95 $5.00 shipping or $24.95 Buy now.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Good info there. I'm shocked to hear, err, read myself typing this, but finally there seems that there may be an eBay DVD worth buying.

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

Here's a link to a kit I purchased:
http://www.europeancoolerair.com/nonac01.htm
Its fairly expensive for the complete kit. In the claim by ICE for increasing power, if they are replacing the York or the R4 with a Sanden unit, then the Sanden takes less power to operate it. I think its 3-5 hp for the Sanden and 15 hp for the York or R4.
Tom

Here is what you will need to do:
Find 240D of similar year to yours (they are pretty much the same throughout each 'generation') that has A/C
1) remove dashboard to get to all the bits
2) remove the wood trim panel from the dash that controls the center vents and carefully detach it from the climate control unit (has plastic lock pin holding it to an internal damper)
3) remove heater control valve (you'll need this unless it is the same as on your car, but it still needs to be out to allow the climate control to come out)
4) pull complete climate control unit from under dash; take pictures while you're there, youll be glad you did later... it is best to take your time so you dont break anything (ask me how I know) and get everything that attaches to any lever or switch of the climate control
5) remove wiring harness, on the later 240D the harness 'starts' at the 'A/C temperature wheel' on the dash, above the climate control knobs. The harness then goes to the fuse panel (and has some ground wires attached behind the instrument cluster) where it has a couple of connections to fused power. The bulk of it then goes through the firewall and there are 2 relay sockets under a cover forward of the fuse panel. it then drops down to the A/C compressor and then over to the aux fan (which as mentioned before, you will need) from there it 'terminates' at the receiver/dryer on the passenger side, just behind the headlight. There is also another harness which connects to the blower motor control switch and also goes to the fuse panel, you'll need this as well. The only wires you will have to cut are some ground wires that are on the same ring terminal as the harness you want.
6) remove A/C compressor bracketry from the engine block and any accessory pulleys that look different that whats installed on your car
7) remove aux fan and A/C condenser (in front of radiator)

8) buy new compressor (you could take the chance with a junker, but I wouldn't go through all this trouble and skimp on a vital part of the system)
9) buy new hoses (will be by far your biggest expense, but you could also design your own using custom stuff that would probably be a bit cheaper and far more reliable...the stock system uses something like 6 flexible lines with the associated fittings and it really is liable to leak) When I get around to fixing my A/C (SoCal, also, but I live and work on the water and I'm good just rolling the windows down), I am going to replace most of the lines with rigid tubing and then have 2 hoses with about 18 inches or so of flex line where needed to counter the movement of the engine.
10) buy new receiver/dryer, expansion valve (located on climate control unit below glovebox) and belt for compressor
11) buy new vacuum control 'pods' and replace all things vacuum under the dash

12) install new climate control unit (this has the evaporator inside of it which cools the incoming air)
13) install new wiring harness
at this point you should have heater blower control and manual lever control for the heater valves for each side of the car, basically what you have installed from the factory on your car
14) install compressor brackets, compressor, hoses/lines, receiver/dryer, condenser, aux fan and TXV (expansion valve).
15) have system evacuated and ensure no leaks
16) charge system with proper oil and refrigerant
17) attach new belt to accessory drive.
18) plug in compressor and receiver/dryer to wiring harness
19) test system and troubleshot as necessary

I think I've covered everything, but might've missed something minor. Overall, this shouldn't be a really difficult job, just time consuming. Plus, once you get the wiring and climate control unit installed, everything else can be done in stages to minimize up front costs and vehicle down time.

Overall the junkyard parts should be bale to be had for under 100 bux, but the new stuff will be pricey. Once you have all the junkyard stuff tho, you can accumulate is one piece at a time. Then you can look into all the previously mentioned 'upgrades'. Good luck and take your time, and plenty of pics when you do it!

josh

It was a couple days ago I read the info on his Sanden Video. but you don`t have to, but he has the brackets and related parts to do the change over.
Also the oil cooler hose has to be rerouted, and he as that already done. But you need to give a $100.00 core deposit, and then sent him back your old line. Or just do your own fabrication.

I bought their Vacuum video several yrs ago, and the mystery of the systm was revealed. WOW, so simple. That was before MB Shop was discovered. sometimes a visual of something is all it takes for me.

Iam not associated with this guy, but I do recommend his DVD`s. the guy is a mechanic, and it is well done.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I don't understand why you would go through replacing brackets and making modifications when 4 Seasons makes an R4 type replacement for less than $300 that fits like the original and is much more durable than the R4?

That R4 replacement is a great improvement over the original, but, (and here is where you want to get out your salt shaker, because this is entirely my opinion based on personal experience that I won't detail here), it's still not on the same level as the Sanden. The last time I checked, the Sanden was closer to $200 new as well. (It has been a few years, so I'd imagine it has gone up just like everything else.)

I'd kick the idea around for a while, since out of pocket costs would end up roughly the same, (Within $75 - $100, a small amount when dealing with AC systems), but somehow think I would still go the Sanden route.

__________________
- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work

My '77 300D progress thread

I don't know the power draw for the 4seasons unit. I have been told the Sanden is about 3-5 hp. This seems right as fuel milage loss with mondern cars. I was told the R-4 was about 12 hp loss and the York was 15 hp loss. You will feel a 3-5 hp loss in performance.
Tom

The 4 Seasons unit draws 2.5 to 3 hp off the engine. Now I have to say that 15 HP for a York and 12 for an R4 in horsepower draw isn't sitting well in my spin filter and I doubt those claims! R12 did draw a lot of power, but R134 draws even more! A York Compressor running on something like Envirosafe is not going to draw 15 HP and I doubt it did with R12 either.

Envirosafe and the other replacement refrigerent don't have as much head pressure as R12 or R134a. At leat from what I've read and what I've been told by others, that I trust. The figures for the York and R4 were told to me by the owner of European Air. Its been a while since I've run my Bricklin with its York compressor. I remember it having a very high draw on power. Considering it has a 351W rated at 180 hp from the factory, I will consider the sources claims as probably vailid. Now considering a 240D has roughly 67-72 hp, then every bit helps. I didn't operate the A/C on my 240D, so I don't have a base line.
Tom

these are made for small planes :
http://www.arcticaircooler.com

then if you wanted a cheaper route along the same lines

http://www.instructables.com/id/S1LCVUWF54HJ6ST/

Adding A/C wouldn't be a huge job. All the bolt holes are there, you just need time and a parts donor. The manual system from a 240D would be FAR more simple and easier than trying to install an automatic system.

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