Oil cooler lines / compression fittings? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kerry · #16 01-22-2009, 12:17 PM

I think it's a decent idea. I'd like to see an example of the kind of improved hose clamp you have in mind. Would heating up a 1/2" hose allow it to expand enough to slide over the barbs? I've installed a number of transmission coolers over the years, often on transmission lines without barbs and haven't had problems. And, as you point out, aftermarket oil coolers use similar connections.

Diesel911 · #17 01-22-2009, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kerry

I think it's a decent idea. I'd like to see an example of the kind of improved hose clamp you have in mind. Would heating up a 1/2" hose allow it to expand enough to slide over the barbs? I've installed a number of transmission coolers over the years, often on transmission lines without barbs and haven't had problems. And, as you point out, aftermarket oil coolers use similar connections.

It is hard to tell from my pics but the 1st barb on the tubing is fatter than the rest. If I had been willing to cut of the far barb on each tubing (a total of 4) there is a chance that the 1/2 inch hose could have been forced over the other barbs.
However, the hose I used is not very elastic and partly because of not enough room (and the extra labor) I did not want to attempt to do any cutting on the tubing. So, I do not know if that would work.

T bolt type clamp which I believe would awnser the clamping problem.

Brian Carlton · #18 01-22-2009, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

j

2 clamps hold each end of the hose on so I doubt if it is possible for the hose to slip off.
The hose has a 300 psi working pressure which is more than double the actual Oil pressure so the hose it self is not going to burst.

I guess it could leak under the 2 clamps but I coated the barbs with Silicone Sealant before I slid the hose over the barbs; no leaks so far.

It's not very elegant, but I'll bet it matches the durability of the OE hose. The hose will last for 20 years and the double clamps will not fail catastrophically and allow the hose to disengage from the fitting.

When, and if, it leaks at the fitting will be an interesting observation. Write back in 10 years and let us know how its holding up.

OldPokey · #19 01-23-2009, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

T bolt type clamp which I believe would answer the clamping problem.

I can't find those around here in a small enough size!

Diesel911 · #20 01-23-2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldPokey

I can't find those around here in a small enough size!

This is the same problem I had. I did some internet searching and I did find I believe it was 2 places that made clamps that would fit but I did not need a box of them and none of my Emails were answered as to who sold them locally. (They always ask for a Company name; if you do not have a company I guess they are not interested in you.)
Sometime last year I found that the local Truck Supply place had some but not planing to remove the ones that I have now as they do not leak I did not buy them.
This Thread got me to thinking about the clamping problem again and I went to the Truck Supply store with the intention of buying them and it appears that they no longer sell them.
However, I did not ask them.
It may be that some Hydraulic supply places or Marine supply places sell them.
Please let me know if you locate a retail source at a resonable price.

Diesel911 · #21 01-23-2009, 07:59 PM

Added jan/24: I cannot find my not2s on the sources of where to find the T bolt clamps the right size and my recent internet searches have turned up nothing either!

I found my notes on measurments of the hose barbs.
The 1st (the tip) barb has an outside diameter of .667 of an inch and the other three barbs have an outside diameter of aproximately .601 of an inch.
I am assuming these were the origional hoses on the car. The hose barbs on aftermarket products could be of a different size.

Joe Marroso · #22 02-05-2009, 01:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

What companies hose did you use (should be printed on the side of the hose) and what inside diameter hose did you use? I would still like to find some hose that fits tighter on the barbs.
Also I already had the Dremel type tool to do the grinding with. What did you use?

Thanks but I only get credit for posting pics and being the
Lab Rat in the experiment.

In my original thread there is a bunch of pro and con arguments. In one of the Posts a Member comments on how the Slip Fit Type hose is used in commercial Boating applications and I have seen many similar uses on Big Rig Trucks and Heavy Equipment. So, it is not a new idea.
However, you have to be willing to take the time to find the right components and do a good installation. However, I realize that it is also means it is not the solution for everyone.

Diesel 911,

I did not forget the hose pedigree request. It just took a while to move things in my garage to get to the spare piece.

Here are the markings:

Aerogroup FC598-10
Exceeds SAE 100 R6

This hose had enough "give" in it so I could it over the barbs. I used heavy duty stainless worm clamps bought from the same hydraulic shop that sold the hose. If I had need or inclination to do the job over again, I would use T-bolt clamps or MB issue worm clamps that are not perforated. However, this hose is so tough the perforations do not chew up the hose surface like perforated worm clamps do to fuel or coolant hoses.

Good hunting,
Joe Marroso

Diesel911 · #23 02-05-2009, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe Marroso

Diesel 911,

I did not forget the hose pedigree request. It just took a while to move things in my garage to get to the spare piece.

Here are the markings:

Aerogroup FC598-10
Exceeds SAE 100 R6

This hose had enough "give" in it so I could it over the barbs. I used heavy duty stainless worm clamps bought from the same hydraulic shop that sold the hose. If I had need or inclination to do the job over again, I would use T-bolt clamps or MB issue worm clamps that are not perforated. However, this hose is so tough the perforations do not chew up the hose surface like perforated worm clamps do to fuel or coolant hoses.

Good hunting,
Joe Marroso

Thanks for remembering me. I recorded the Info.

Last week I did some internet search for T bolt clamps small enough but could not find any. Last year I though I had seen some on the Internet.

cho · #24 05-20-2013, 07:27 AM

.

hey D911,

as always I'm interested in workarounds and hacks

so it is been 4 yrs since "clamp" style oil lines...how are they holding now..
did you have to upgrade simple clamps to T styled ones?

thanks,
ChO

.

Diesel911 · #25 05-20-2013, 10:18 AM

Truth or dare time.
I used to clean My Engine off about 2x per year. I have not done that since May of 2011.
I have also not paid attention to the Hoses. The Clamps are the same as I started with. I have never found any T-bolt Clamps that will go down small enough and since it has bee working I just left it alone.

The Hose going to the Upper Part of the Oil Cooler is Dry.

The Lower Hose is a little wet on both ends as in the Pic. I have noticed no drips on the Drive Way from that part of the Car.
So it is no longer perfect.

The GoodYear Hose I used is stiff and inelastic 5/8" ID Hose. I had tried the same but 1/2" ID Hose but could not get it to stretch over the Barbs.

So I had 1/2" GoodYear Hose left over. When My Van Oil Cooler Hose started Leaking I decided to use up the 1/2" GoodYear Hose but it was a littley sloppy.

I bought some 1/2" Parker Plus Powersteering Hose and that had a tigher fit. So that is What I used on the Van. The Parker Hose was also more elastic so I think it might seal better when clamped.
My Van Hoses looked OK 4 Months ago but I have not seen them since then.

I am going to start thinking about replacing the wet section of Hose and see if the Parker Hose is a better fit when I get around to it.

resto108 · #26 05-20-2013, 11:07 AM

If you want to go the aviation way on the hose, use MIL-H-6000D-10. Its what we use on oil cooler lines in general aviation. Kind of like really good heater hose in that it still bends easily. You can get it from a place like Aircraft Spruce.

cho · #27 05-20-2013, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

Truth or dare time
.

Thanks D911,

4yrs or even more with better hose/clamps is super fine.

over here we have more luck as we have wide range metric hoses
available and I suppose it will be easier fit. (i.e 15mm should do...)

edit: did you have to remove steering pump to complete this action?

.

Diesel911 · #28 05-20-2013, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cho

Thanks D911,

4yrs or even more with better hose/clamps is super fine.

over here we have more luck as we have wide range metric hoses
available and I suppose it will be easier fit. (i.e 15mm should do...)

edit: did you have to remove steering pump to complete this action?

.

That would be nice.
If My Memory is working OK I believe I found a Company in Europe called NORMA that sold the T-bolt Clamps small enough.

mach4 · #29 05-20-2013, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by resto108

If you want to go the aviation way on the hose, use MIL-H-6000D-10. Its what we use on oil cooler lines in general aviation. Kind of like really good heater hose in that it still bends easily. You can get it from a place like Aircraft Spruce.

It's not quite in the theme of using "clamps" rather than "crimps", but I used aircraft-style hose on my project along with converting all the metric fittings to AN fittings.

You drill out the oil cooler fittings and tap them for NPT-to-AN 90s and braze on -10 fittings on the oil cooler hard lines. Then just order the -10 AN fittings and the stainless hose and make up the lines yourself without any special tools. The fittings are re-usable, so if you need to replace, just order new hose.

The side benefit is that the stainless provides a significant degree of protection to a vulnerable hose should a belt let loose.

Diesel911 · #30 05-20-2013, 07:06 PM

I have read whole bunch of alternative ways of doing the Hoses and saved them to My Notes. At this time I am not ready to do something more elaborate.

In My particular case the Hose Clamps cost more than the Hose I uses and the whole job was done for about $27.

This is not a reson go avoid going to a Hydraulic Shop and having Hoses Made but in My 18 yeasrs working as a Disel Mechanic I have see New Stock Hoses leak and also New Hoses made at the Hydraulic Shop leak. Every once in a while they come out bad.

The One place I worked bought a bunch of Hydraulic Hose called Snyflex. It is some sort of plastic hose for use on their Fork Lifts and Container Lifters Hydraulic Hoses.

There was a hand Tool for Crimping the Collars. Even though I made them all the same way every once in a while one of the Crimped collars evidently did not crimp well and leak.
Once I found that out I made each of the Hoses slightly longer so that if I had to I could cut the Hose shorter and replace the Fitting/Collar.