This is a guide for how to replace the 2 bushings inside the console. I didn’t replace the other 2 bushings on the rod going to the tranny because they were still good.

You’ll need:
Plilips head screw driver
Flat head screw driver
Snap ring pliers
¼ 10mm socket
¼ ratchet and extension
15mm wrench
Wheel bearing grease
2 bushings 115 267 12 50

1. Push the metal tab down a remove the ashtray:



2. Remove both Philips head screws:



3. Pull the bracket out and unplug the connector:



4. Pull the front part of the wood up and slide back then unplug all switches:



5. Pry out the shifter light:



6. Remove all 3 10mm bolts that hold the shifter gate in place:



7. Twist the shifter gate to the side and use a 15mm wrench and loosen the lock nut and then finish turning the shifter knob counter clock-wise until it is off:

8. Remove 4 10mm bolts and the gold bracket. The gold bracket it connected to the zip tie so just cut the zip tie and remove the bracket:



9. I don’t have a picture of this step but pull the housing up and you’ll see the rod that comes from the tranny and where it attaches to the rod that goes into the console. Tie a piece of wire to the rod and then tie the other end to the steering wheel so when you disconnect it the rod doesn’t fall on the ground. Remove the little clip and slide the console rod off the rod coming from the tranny.

10. Remove the spring clip(red arrow) and then slide the pin out and remove the U-joint(yellow arrow) and the spring:



11. Use your snap ring pliers and remove the snap ring:



12. Slide the plastic cover off:



13. Slide the rod out and put the new bushings in the shifter case and put a lot of wheel bearing grease on the rod and on the bushings(inside and out). If you don’t then your shifter will squeak every time you move it. Then put your snap ring back on.




Re-install everything and enjoy your tight shifter.

Here is a diagram of the rods. The console rod is #5, the rod going to the tranny is #92. The 2 bushings that I replaced are #17 and #14. Also notice that #10 and #11 are bushings too

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

i suppose you used an illegibly small font so BC couldn't pick apart your DIY this time?

__________________

great write-up.

__________________
1985 300SD
1998 Jetta TDI
Previous: lots of diesel VW's, MB's, KW's, Pete, Freightliner


Walking isn't a lost art: one must, by some means, get to the garage.

Nah, he did a great job with that one.

However, most folks need to replace the bushing at the bottom of the shifter where the transmission rod connects, It's out in the elements and it's definitely toast if not previously replaced.

nice write-up; thanks for your contribution.

__________________
83 300d - 390k

thanks Brian I did my best on this one.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Does anybody have part numbers for this. My shift selector rattles pretty bad and I am guessing this may be the problem.

I listed the part #'s to the ones I replaced in the first post.

The other 2 bushings are 115 992 03 10

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Brian wanna add this to the DIY articles?

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I just did this, and I think it would have been a lot easier if I had removed the snap (#96 in the parts drawing) from below and pulled the entire shifter out to work on the bench. I spent more time looking for the snap ring once it popped off the snap ring pliers than I did driving the car onto ramps and crawling underneath there. It turned out I had to replace the shift rod bushing (#11), so it had to come out anyway.

__________________
1984 300TD

Thanks for the DIY Mercy!!
Man I like your interior wood grain!! [worked hard so that that wouldn't sound bad]

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

you serious? Im about to refinish it.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Good write up. I'll copy and convert it to a PDF and burn to the ever growing files on a CD.

__________________
DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, DON'T BE A HACK
Political Correctness is NOT part of my vocabulary
and finally FIGHT CRIME...SHOOT BACK

'82 240D Stick
'85 300D Auto
Drove my first MB at age 16 1960 300SL W190

Now we need one for the manual shifter or is there one out there already?

__________________
DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012