ok, here are the pictures. I was in such a hurry to get it installed that I did not take any pictures of the install. It is pretty straightforward, so i am sure you guys will figure it out. I used a kat's brand circulation tank heater. It is a 1500W model, and it really bangs out the heat. 1 - 1.5 hrs is plenty to get it warm. Also, my engine compartment is a work in progress, so no criticisms of the other crap that is wrong in there! LOL! Again, I have an '83 300td, so that is what these pics are of.

Picture 1 shows the top T. I believe the orientation is sort of important. It should face directly over toward the pass. side. I used 5/8" hose and fittings. All were purchased at tractor supply.

Pictures 2 and 3 show hose routing. Use zip ties to keep the hose where you want it. I was sure to keep it away from the turbo and the rear of the head.

Picture 4 shows the heater mounting. The bottom of the heater is even or lower than the bottom of the radiator. I feel it is important to mention that I was careful here to have all my hose claps pointing in such a way as to make their tightening as easy as possible. an 18" extension was used to simple reach in there. Please also note the hoses. They bend smoothly, and there is no "up then down then up" swoop in the top hose. I think the smooth uphill flow really makes the covection currents roll. A hump may impede flow. Also, note the T fitting coming off near the water pump neck. It is important to make sure this points at the heater, otherwise the hose wants to flatten/kink. This one goes to the lower IN side of the heater. The idea is that the heated fluid rises, and the lower outlet from the waterpump flows down to, gets heated, then rises to the higher, head inlet from the heater. Edit: It does flow in the opposite direction, but there are no moving parts in the heater - all circ takes place due to convection - at least that is what i was able to find on the web. The ciculation is ALL convection, and that is why the inlet MUST be lower than the outlet side of the heater.

Picture 5 shows the view from below. the strap origionally came with 2 holes - that i think you can see in the picture. i drilled one sort of splitting the difference between them to locate the heater right near the rad without actually touching it. I used a 5/16 bolt with a nut. Bolt was 3/4" long. The hole in the subframe can be acessed from the rear to get a nut on the bolt, but it took some "doing:. Using a closed end wrench, a taped the nut in place in the wrench. The "slit" in the frame is large enough for the closed end of a 13mm wrench to get through - no bigger. This is where the 3/4" bolt length become important. Any longer, and you will not be able to wiggle your wrench out.

IMPORTANT - hook up the upper hose first, before you install the heater strap. i didn't and it seriously took me 30 minutes to get that hose clamp tight because my hands just would not fit all that well in the small space.

Other than that, it went real smooth. I hope this helps. It sure was nice to get into a car that was throwing hot air as soon as I got in!

Total project cost - $35 for the Kat's 1500W circulation tank heater, $8 for the 8 feet of 5/8" heater hose, $4 for the T fittings = $47

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi
1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi
2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi

If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants.
- sir isaac newton

Looks like a straight-forward setup. It does seem to circulate the coolant in the reverse of what the engine normally circulates it, but that probably does not matter. Is there anything inside that heater can? Because the water pump in the engine most likely pushes the coolant through your new heater while the engine is running (it pushes coolant pretty well through my VO circuit and its tapped the same place yours is tapped). Just wanted to make sure there's nothing in there that could be harmed by water going through it the wrong way.

I think this is something I'll have to look into. Thanks for sharing.

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1985 300TD-euro 352,000 mi
1974 240D (1?)52,000 mi - has a new home now

Looks Like a nice setup. I was reading this thread about kats heaters.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/archives/ubbthreads/69IDI/showflat.php-Cat=&Number=2229452&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1.htm

I think the instructions say to loop it into the block drain for best results.
Is that what you did??

Also the description says that this unit heats and circulates .
does it have a mechanicle circulating device built in or just through convection??

i read the exact same post when I was trying to figure out what to do. according to the installation instructions, heater hose install is acceptable as long as there is adequate drop, they only give you 1 huge T though. Thats why I bought my own. Also, there is no motor in the setup. it relies strictly on convection. I am not real sure why they call it a circulation heater - it is sort of misleading, but it does work. I would have to say, after having installed it, a lot of the people posting about this type of heater either never have installed one or have not ensured the coolant flow is proper(read installed incorrectly). I am not sure how it could not work if the basic principle is followed.

__________________
1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi
1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi
2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi

If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants.
- sir isaac newton

If I am understanding the routing correctly, and I have been under the hood of a 300D a few times, would your installation not allow coolant to bypass the heater core when the engine is running? Does the heat still work well when engine running/driving? Just curious since I know the aux pump is to help coolant flow through the heater core when idling, wondering if the coolant now has a path of less resistance through the tank heater? Just a thought.... RT

__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

Make sure the car is parked such that the extension cord will automatically unplug when she drives away, having forgotten to unplug it!

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970

Good point. I'll tie the extension cord around the pole in the garage and attach the heater cord with a clip somewhere on the car too.

__________________
Chad
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys

What was the temp outside with this test? What was the goal of this type of heater over the stock block heater, quicker heat up times? Easier to install that a stock block heater?

Not tryig to be an azz just curious as I have a zerostart that I purchased a while ago for something else and it just hanging around.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

Reason for this install -
factory block heater ws never installed, and I did not want the headache of tring to get the plug out. It seems it can be difficult from what I hear/read. So yes - easier was a primary goal.

Second, it was cheaper, not by much, but enough to get me interested.

The "test" occurred with ambient temps of 27 on a cold engine - I know, I know, not Vermont cold, but cold enough to need a glow. It started w/o one. God, I wish I was in Vermont right now. It might be my second favorite place on earth(that I've been anyways). I am envious of you snowsquall! I spent one of the best summers/autumns of my life in and near Ripton/middlebury a few years back.

The first morning trial saw a temp of 20. It was hot, with heat blowing then. I am heading north for the holidays, so I will let you know. I suspect it may take a little longer to heat, but it should get it really hot in 2 hrs.

I was also concerned about bypassing the heater, thus providing said "path of least resistance" but it does not seem to be the case. In fact, I noticed no change.

__________________
1983 300td - Velvet 265,000 mi
1975 Toyota Landcruiser FJ40 160,000 mi
2004 Toyota 4runner 103,000 mi

If I have seen farther, it is because I have stood on the shoulders of giants.
- sir isaac newton

Ha I used to live in sw pa california pa.
My alma mater.Now i live in Vermont and yea it gets friggin cold here.
This is why i want to get a block heater for the benz.
asnowsquall where in vt do you live.we are probably close.