Prologue:
So apparently the ol' SDL doesn't stop giving me something to worry about. Yesterday I found out that my car didn't start (Pop it in neutral and it starts fine...neutral safety switch/bushings {?} )...

But today I took my sister to school and found that my driver's front tire was a little under the PSI mark. Got home, took it off, washed it a bit and found [as seen in the pictures]a tiny nail that punctured the side...not only that! I also noticed lots of wear on the inside of the tires and a hole revealing metal wires. A mechanic a while back told me to replace the tie rods, center link, steering damper, and to have it aligned. I figured that I didn't really have to until I reached a situation [like this].

I planned to go to Pep Boys and have the nail removed for a mere $24.99, but would anyone agree to get a whole new set of tires? ALL the tires are prematurely worn on the inside making me believe the tires are somewhat looking like --> /--\.

Situation:
I'm a full-time college student and I love my car pretty much like all of use here do. Dad and I share a passion for these ol' Diesels, but he pays for their maintenance needs. I just spent $344 on a Pierburg pump and an 11-blade OM606 Fan, yet I am wanting to buy that OM606 Turbo Fan Clutch to preserve the engine and #14 head. This was the reason I didn't buy the steering components first.

Now I am having a bit of a Sophie's choice...because I also have presents to get friends and family as well as girlfriend.

As for now, I am going to make the '83 300SD my workhorse once again. But really miss the ride of the longer wheelbase (not to mention faster) car. What's a goof to do?

The Question:
What would be the best reasonable thing to do/buy first and how should the rest follow?
-New Tires
-New Fan Clutch
-Steering Components (Anyone suggest buying the tie rods for $52 off eBay? Any suggested brands?)
-Alignment
-Neutral Safety Switch / Shifter Bushings

Attached Thumbnails

       

Well you need new tires, don't really have much choice now. If money is tight just throw some super cheap ones on until you can afford to take care of the suspension. I'd still do the tie rods and center link since those are cheap and simple. Also poke around and make sure nothing is lose and going to come apart.

Its winter time, don't spend money on cooling system parts, suspension is more important. You can drive it now without a fan clutch, but not with tires like that.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

watch craigs for deals on tires. I bought a set of brand new michelins ($280 retail each) for $60, then got them mounted and balanced for $25

but if you dont get your front end straightened out youre wasting money on tires

__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

1) New tires.......no question.

2) Do a real detailed inspection of your front end and replace any loose/dangerous parts. Especially ball joints and tie-rods.

3) Do a Google search on "DIY wheel alignment". You might be surprised but you can do a pretty accurate job with some simple tools from Home Depot. You can definitely get it close enough to prevent shredding your new tires.

__________________
'81 300CD - 180K, cannot be killed by any conventional means
'99 Ford Escort - good MPG

[/quote]
3) Do a Google search on "DIY wheel alignment". You might be surprised but you can do a pretty accurate job with some simple tools from Home Depot. You can definitely get it close enough to prevent shredding your new tires.[/quote]

Really?!

Yep! NASCAR teams do their alignment right in the pits using jackstands and strings (or wires).

Camber can be checked with either a plumb bob or 2" x 4" and level held against the wheel. (providing the car is on level ground of course)

Toe-in can be checked by clamping 6 ft. long aluminum angles to the reference surfaces of the rims, again with 2" X 4" spacers. You measure the distance between the angles just in front of the wheels and out near the end of the angles to get them either parallel or slight toe-in.

Caster is the one you really can't do at home, but then again it's the least likely to be out of whack.

Again guys I'm not claiming perfection, but you can do a pretty decent job if you take your time.

__________________
'81 300CD - 180K, cannot be killed by any conventional means
'99 Ford Escort - good MPG

No one is going to fix a puncture in a tire in that condition.

Sixto
87 300D

anything in the sidewall.. tire is done. Even if it is on the joint between tread and sidewall.. maybe a risky fix. IF you do decide to have tire fixed, I'd suggest moving it to a rear wheel so if it should blow, you wont loose control.

Worn tires like that are definitely a sign of worn components or a poorly done alignment by someone not familiar with these front ends. Could be the track rod bushings are worn and allowing the front end to move more then it should. Usually this is where I find problems.

If you have an auto salvage yard.. you maybe able to get tires for short money. Just have them mounted and balanced. Save up for a nice pair of Michelins for it.

How long have those tires been on the car? If the car is new to you, maybe they were thrown on already like that by an unscrupulous seller.

Sixto
87 300D

This car is about 14 months old with us 13,300 miles put on it from 165,500 miles = 178,800 miles. I bought this 1987 300SDL from an ol' lady who bought a new S550 and had no room for this. It took a while for her to budge...but I considered myself lucky when she agreed to sell. I only wish it came with the rear seat adjustment=(

Never took the tires off, but did have them rotated. I was a little freaked out a little earlier this season about the rear suspension of the car. I was thinking that the wear on the back tires was a back problem. But I had the rear checked and it appeared to be fine. Real problem was the front...

IMHO you need UCAs (upper control arms) as well.

__________________
Cheers,
Robert

Someone else alluded to the fact that no shop will fix that, or any of those tires if they have similar wear patterns and HOLES in them from being worn well past their design limits. They are unsafe and should not be put back on the car.

New tires and that suspension set up and you are going to roast another set in short order. You need a front end rebuild and new tires. Sorry. Jim

__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles

Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)

How can you tell?

Very common cause of tires that look exactly like yours......

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

I was going to say UCA too, the inner wear suggests this.

You didn't hear any clunking from the front end? The front of that car is lose as can be, I can't beleive it drives very well.

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200