Went to check the stretch on my timing chain this afternoon (83 300sd 617) and was totally shocked. I aligned the timing marks on the cam and look at the balancer and I want even close the degree marks. They marks were at least 45 degrees ahead.
Picture “timing mark TDC.jpg” shows the mark aligned
Picture “crankshaft position at TDC.jpg” shows what the crank position with the timing marks aligned at the cam.
When the cam timing marks are aligned the 1 piston is at TDC but the crankshaft position as you can see is totally off.
Picture “balance plate and timing pointer.jpg” shows the crankshaft position set to 0
Picture” cam position b0.jpg” shows what the cam position with the crankshaft position at 0
It looks like the PO must have put the balance plate on 45 degrees out of phase I thought there would be a key that wouldn’t allow that. So if I pull off the balancer how do I set it so that it is correct? Do I need to replace the chain ?

Thanks

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I strongly suggest inspecting the balancer's integrity and its placement on the crankshaft nose.

There have been many threads on compromised dowels (keys) and broken balancers.

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Im thinking the PO may have put the Harmonic Balancer on incorrectly.
Question. How do i remove the crankshaft bolt (Bolt M 18 x 1.5 x 45).
Thanks

Remember, the cam turns once for two crankshaft revolutions.

The crank bolt is a 27mm hex head.

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RRGrassi


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Yup know the bolt size well (did the valve adjustment)
My question is how to block the crank or something on or near the ballancer so i can get the bolt off.
Or do i do the tap the starter method (long breaker bar and 27mm socket)?
Thanks

How did it run before you started working on it?

I can't tell from the pictures but I think it's not on the compression stroke.

That last picture would have been better looking straight down on the cam instead of on the side.

Roll it around once until the cam marks line up again and see what you get.

I used the starter method to get the crank bolt off on my Volvo. I rested the end of the socket wrench on a jackstand.
It fell off a few time so I held it on with the palm of my hand.
Actually it wasn't as bad as it sounds but my girlfriend was freeking out.

Danny

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Pulled the balancer off there didnt seem to be any play.
How does the crank end look? Am I looking at a new crank or can I just replace the dowels? Where do i get the dowels (Fitted pin )?


Thanks

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I cant tell for sure by the picture, but it appears the the crank nose is damaged. Please confirm that the dowel notches in the crank nose are not rounded. All the edges should be crisp and the dowels should have no play once they are set in there.

If the nose of the crank is damaged, talk to a machine shop about their recommendations.

most likely, finding a good donor crank with its flywheel will be a cheaper option than fixing your existing crank (if the nose is damaged).

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the nose is for sure out of wack.....id say the PO mashed it on and damaged them or use the wrong dowls.....last post is your best bet.....also try to set the mark on the cam and see if you can line up the dowl correctly.

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Wie lange wird Ihr Auto leben?

With the balancer rotated 180 degrees from where the PO had set it, everything lines up. I still cant tell if there is too much stretch in the chain. That will have to wait until I get the pins in. but much better.

I have attached a picture of the balancer on the crank aligned using a drill bit. I’m thinking it doesn’t look too bad. The one on the right of the picture looks like it is wallowed but the bit is tight I guess can’t really tell until I get the pins in.

Thanks

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sounds good.


Even if there is a little play, and failure at the nose is in the future, the most probable damage that may occurr to the engine is not worth replacing the crankshaft at this time etc..

however, I would inspect your accessories for functionality. Primarily the A/C compressor. Any of those things locking up jeopordizes those little pins and the crank nose.

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I am sure that you meant to say "A/C compressor."

derrr

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Just picked up the new pins, bold and washers from MB. I think I might be ok the pins fit snugly and there is no play from the balancer on the crankshaft snoot.
Question: the pins I got from MB seem to sit a little above the surface of the crank end, is this normal or should they be flush. I haven’t torque the bolt to 200ft-lb but I have tightened it and it is still not flush as can be seen in the attached picture.

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I was just wondering what a good machinist might recommend. Thinking two additional new dowel holes at twelve and six oclock if your curent ones are at three and nine oclock positions. I might get an opinion. Could be done in car at home I believe. Just basically boosts up the other two dowels and further eliminates any possible future movement. I might even drill the new holes a thousand or two under. Freeze the additional pins and drive them in.

Dowels fail one more time and crank end is toast so with nothing to loose I would ask an expert. Under heavy load one side looks like the dowel could develop a little movement. A good machinest might have several ideals. You want to make this as strong as possible.

I cannot remember the item that was damaged years ago that I also used a high tech glue for any additional help it provided. Knowing full well if the repair did not last it was toast anyways. Fortunatly it held till the car was used up.

Who knows if the glue contributed? Only thing I know is it did not hurt. It may for example just have filled any small voids created from the part spinning on the shaft to inhibit movement.

The one thing you have going basically is since the last guy that replaced the dowels. His repair was functional until you took it apart. The balancer was not loose. Just installed wrong. I just do not like that gap alongside the one dowel.