Hi all,
So what is the best sealant for the 616 upper oil pan?
The part numbers don't seem to work at the dealer...
I have read the blue RTV work, Form-A-Gasket, Rite stuff all work but what is the "Best"?

Thanks,
Nathan

isn't there a seal made by MB? I didn't think MB used RTV to seal up there motors.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

I have used blue RTV, but VERY thinly applied.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Funny, I just looked that up yesterday in the EPC.

The correct part is indeed a sealer. The equivalent would be an RTV that takes high temp and oil abuse. I recall that being the black one.

As the other fellow just said, use it sparingly. Also, make sure any evidence of prior seal is gone.

-CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Tri Bond, you can get it from HONDA or Yamaha motorcycle dealers, they call it Hondabond and Yamahabond respectively.

__________________
99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo

2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo

2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT

I second this recommendation. This section is a highly machined fit and came from the factory without any gasket. No silicon for this area. I've used Yamabond #4, but now has been discontinued. The replacement product is THREEBOND TB1194 liquid sealant. Same as the Honda stuff. Just make sure the area is free of oil for the bond to adhere (clean area with acetone) and it is a bit messy if use too much.

The other recommendation is to use 3M scotch grip 1300 yellow sealant. Again no silicon to break free and get into the oil pump screen. But the Motorcycle THREEBOND casing sealant is what I would use first.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Problem of using RTV is it breaking off, getting into the oil passages and cause potential clogging.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

How long have you had on the blue RTV Stevo?

Maybe I should do a poll

Nathan.

I agree w/ stevo

__________________

About five years, 60+-K

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Sounds good to me. Blue RTV it is. The stuff that's on there looks like RTV to me any ways. Stevo what brand do you use?

Thanks,
Nathan.

If you don't want it to leak and never plan on taking it off again I would recommend 'The Right Stuff' from Permatex. Just go easy on it, most people put way too much RTV on and that leads to squeeze out and problems with chunks of silicone floating around. The only downside to The Right Stuff is that if you apply it to a clean surface and get a good bond you will not be able to pry the oil pan back off again. The only way I have found to get it to break loose is to heat it up with a propane torch.

I have used blue and black silicone on valve covers and other joints on big diesel engines without a gasket. I believe the blue is slightly better. I think that used sparingly, it is great especially for thin flanges or castings, especially pressed metal parts that distort so badly. Some applications seem more severe than others. I have found that it some cases silicone does have a set life, it will fail over a period of time, despite use of a degreaser. I used it on a 617 oil pan recently, although reluctently. I had an old machinist recommend a Tri-bond product once, in a tube, apparently used on motorcycles, for a crack in a block that was "working", a crack between wet liners. But what I would consider using is an anerobic sealer made by Locktite for 2-cycle crankcases. I think this is a tough spot to seal. I used such a product recently on an older John Deere dozer transmission housing, actually in several places, as recommended in their manual. I have seen red threadlocking loctite used also, to seal some areas that are " a long way back". This product hardens with lack of air instead so clearances at the joint must be small. Keep in mind that sealers have a temperature range to cure in. Apologies for rambling on. Phil

What brand? LOL, I'm lucky to remember what I used last week let alone five (or so, cant remember) years ago

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Heh, Thanks. Probably doesn't mater much any ways I have only seen Permatex around here.