I Need Suggestions On Lifting Engine Out Of Car - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Squiggle Dog · #1 08-06-2008, 05:59 PM

I have a 617 5 cylinder turbo diesel engine all disconnected and ready for removal (with transmission, does not seem possible to access bell housing bolts with engine in car) in a 1979 300SD. I removed the AC pump, fan, radiator, and since it's a parts car--I cut and removed the body above where the radiator used to be for more clearance.

Anyway, I notice there is one eyelet in front and two in the rear of the engine. I have an engine hoist with a hook. What is the best way of hooking onto the eyelets to lift the engine and transmission out? They are supposed to come out at a 45 degree angle, but since I cut out the front portion of the body they should be able to come almost straight out.

My shop manual CD says to use rope in the eyelets, but what kind of rope? Or what should I use to connect the eyelets to the hoist hook? I am thinking of possibly using chain and some carabiners. Any thoughts?

P.S. The engine will be bolted up to a 4 speed column shift transmission and installed in a 1967 fintail.

LUVMBDiesels · #2 08-06-2008, 06:39 PM

Get a load leveller and attach that to the hoist. then attach it to the engine. It is better to pull the entire assembly of engine and trans in one shot as you are planning to do.

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_19889_19889

NoSparkNeeded · #3 08-06-2008, 06:45 PM

I've always used a chain with that hook. I've pulled Jag V12s,Chevy motors, and a VERY heavy GMC 351ci V6 that way. You can do it 3 spotted or two with one length of chain. Just hook it up and jack. Then you can see how it wants to move and adjust the chain to get the pull force correct.

Oracle12345 · #4 08-06-2008, 06:46 PM

wasnt necessary to cut the body....

prop the hood all the way open and lift the motor out once the disconnects are made.

Whiskeydan · #5 08-06-2008, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oracle12345

wasnt necessary to cut the body....

prop the hood all the way open and lift the motor out once the disconnects are made.

The W116 hinges do not allow the hood to be vertical.

Rope??? Wire rope or, use a chain. It helps to have the car up to allow the transmission tail to drop. Cutting the radiator support from a parts car makes it easier.

Squiggle Dog · #6 08-06-2008, 07:28 PM

Thanks for the input. This car is a rust bucket and is getting scrapped anyway after I strip it of all usable parts, so I cut the radiator support so I wouldn't have to lift the engine so high.

Bens lover · #7 08-06-2008, 07:53 PM

Hi there...
We just removed an engine out of a 300D turbo diesel.We did not have any problems removing the engine other then you have to remember that the torque converter is connected to the engine fly wheel.So you need to pull towards the front of the car then lift up...
See the whole thing at
www.benzguy.piczo.com
and look for 1982 300D Turbo Diesel engine removal
Good luck
Dan

Squiggle Dog · #8 08-06-2008, 09:01 PM

Nice website! I have a chain that is the perfect length and I will use some bolts through the links of the chain and into the eyelets. At the back I can go into each eyelet and then bring the chain back around. This should work. I will know this weekend or maybe earlier.

Bens lover · #9 08-06-2008, 10:08 PM

Just take your time and you should have no problems..
Good luck!
Don't be shy to look me up and ask questions..
Regards
Dan

yellit · #10 08-07-2008, 12:18 AM

The load leveler is a dream to use....comes with chains....all you need are 3 screw links to attach to the three points....

Not so important coming out if you have all that cut away... but a real help when going back in....Harbor Freight about 30 bucks.....worth every cent...

Squiggle Dog · #11 08-07-2008, 12:46 AM

I don't see the load leveler on Harbor Freight's website, but maybe I will call them.

KarTek · #12 08-07-2008, 08:10 AM

A huge second, third and forth vote for the load leveler! I pulled many engines over the years trying to guess at how much slack should be on the various lift chains and invariably, I had to put the engine back down a couple times during the process when the angle wasn't right. For my last swap, I broke down and bought one from Harbor Freight - it was cheap, like $25 on sale!

It works like magic. One of the problems when not using it is that pressure builds up when the engine contacts some part of the body as it's sliding up and out. This pressure has a nasty way of letting loose when you're not paying attention or are yanking on it trying to free it up. An engine and tranny are very unforgiving to hands and fingers in between hard metal parts.

Stevo · #13 08-07-2008, 11:34 AM

Ditto on the merits of the "load leveler", I use my air ratchet to speed things up

LUVMBDiesels · #14 08-07-2008, 11:54 AM

I even went to the trouble to post a link to Northern Tool. There is a load leveler for $34 Follow the link in my older post.

charmalu · #15 08-07-2008, 12:29 PM

Load leveler is the way to go. cut that damn little crank off and weld on a nut. then you can use a 1/2 inch wratchet, much easier when all that weight is hanging there. I used a 13/16 long nut. most hardware stores have them.

be sure to remove the torq converter bolts first while the engine is connected. there are 6 of them. think they are 13mm. much easier than after the engine is out. been there.

that northern tool leveler, don`t know I would trust those hooks. look weak.
think mine uses 5/16 chain and have shackles on the chain that attaches to the lift points. you have a lot of weight hanging there, think safety.

Charlie

I just looked in Northern tool web site, they have another eng hoist for a little more $ and the same weight lifting . but looks much safer.