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  #16  
Old 07-29-2008, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Picture's worth 1000 words

Not my pictures
I've bent the autozone tool many times when i had to do that job in a pinch.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)
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  #17  
Old 07-30-2008, 01:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oracle12345 View Post
I've bent the autozone tool many times when i had to do that job in a pinch.
I looked at the one at the local Autozone and the threaded shafts were about 1/2 inchers and I did not like the hooks/retainers that were on it.
The thread rod on mine are 5/8 rods.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #18  
Old 07-30-2008, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgkast View Post
Picture's worth 1000 words

Not my pictures
I replaced the threaded rods with American made 5/8 rod with nuts and used it today with no problems.
What I would like is to have a set with only 1 hook on each end. The end with the double hooks on it makes it harder to fit and also to use.
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  #19  
Old 07-31-2008, 07:05 PM
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More rust trouble. The Lower Control Arm blot is rust in so tight that beating on it as best I could with a 3 pound hammer will not budge it. I am also worried that beating too hard on it will distort the sheet metal that it attatches to.
Tried heating the blot, spraying with penatrant oil, followed by so beating with the hammer. No luck so far.
If I have to I could cut through the bolt but I will let it soak in oil till tomarrow while I think up some other ideas.
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2008, 05:30 PM
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I continued with my Control Arm removal job. Nothing was working and I tried David4's idea of picking out the rubber and getting a Vice Grips on the Busning Collar and turning the bolt to break it loose from the bolt (except that I burned the rubber with a Propane Torch to help with picking out the rubber) only to find out the my Vice Grips would not open up enough to get a good grip.
Went back to beating with zero results except that I started thinking. I was a Mechanic for 18 years and I have beat a lot of things loose; there had to be something else keeping it from coming out.
I decided that that part of the force of the blows must be going into the Guide Rod; I had removed the bolt but the Eye of the Guide rod still made contact with the arm.
I removed the whole assembly that attaches to the Guide Rod. Three good blows and the bolt came loose 90% of the way. The last 10% required me to heat the bolt but I got it out.
If I had thought about the Guide Rod sooner I could have saved myself a lot of work.
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  #21  
Old 07-20-2014, 12:50 AM
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I never finished this thread.
In this thread I had to use the Lower Control Arms with oversized Bushing Bores becasue I had to get My Car on the Road to get Myself and My Wife to work.

Several Months later I bought set of Used Lower Control Arms on eBay and I had to do the Job over agin.
Before Starting the Job I made My own Spring Compressor so I would not have to use the Hooked type Harbor Freight ones. The Spring Compressor pulled the Spring up into the Spring Pearch and the Spring Stays there compressed until you are ready to lower it.

It is a strong Tool but incontinent to used and you could only fix one side at a time. Also when the Spring is compressed the Rod is stuck up high enough that you could not close the Hood.
Attached Thumbnails
Unexpected trouble removing front Lower Control Arm Bushings.-home-made-spring-compressor-mine-jul-14.jpg  

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