E300 Engine Mounts - done - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BobT · #1 06-21-2008, 10:44 AM

My wifes 1999 E300 (104,xxx miles) (W210) was 'humming' in wallows in the road when I drove it (not when she drove it

) so after reading a few items here I was determined to replace both engine mounts, the transmission mount and the shifter bushing.

I bought OE parts from the dealer.

Engine mounts: raise front of car (or entire car if you can)(I sed a floor jack and jack stands and layed on my concrete garage, thank you). Remove front engine cover (which you would if doing ordinary oil drain) and rear cover (if you are to do the transmission mount too).

Support the oil pan with a floor jack, using a piece of plywood and a something soft between jack and oil pan. Do not raise the engine at this time!

You need to do ONE mount at a time!

Bottom bolts require a 13mm socket, top requires 16mm (or 5/8), I used a 12-point as it was a little difficult to engage the upper bolt.

LEFT: remove bottom bolt from below (seen thru a window in subframe), and using extensions/ujoint remove upper bolt by snaking the extension under the intak from the front of the engine. Now lift slowly until you can cleanly remove the mount from below. Install new mount from below, being sure tang protrudes thru nice EPDM boot (my old one did not have this) and aligns with slot/fork on engine bracket. You will need to lift engine a bit more if your mounts are collapsed as bad as mine were. Now install upper bolt and tighten, drawing mount upward and ensuring that tang is where it needs to be (you can see it with some difficulty from above it as you tighten). Carefully lower engine and install lower bolt (torque if you need, add a thread locker if you need).

RIGHT: support but do not lift oil pan once again. Remove lower bolt as above, then from top front and again using a ujoint adapter, remove the top bolt. A 10mm socket can be used to remove the heat shield - I did in order to see proper alignment of new mount but you may be able to leave it in place). Slowly lift ingine with jack and remove oil mount from below. As above you need to raise the engine further to install fresh mount (mine was collapsed worse here on right) from below, again observing the tang alignment. Back up top, loosely install heat shield bolt (if removed) and align the shield to install the top mount bolt from above. I used a magnet to drop it in place, dexterity was not mine yesterday as too much chainsaw work day before. You cannot verify tang engagement from above, you need to go below and support mount while hand-tightening the upper bolt until you are satisfied the tang is where it needs to be. Then back up top to tighten heaqt shield bolt and engine mount. As before, slowly lower engine and install lower bolt from below.

TRANSMISSION MOUNT: Put the new shifter bushing in you pocket and grab needle nose pliers before climbing back under car yet again. Move the jack back under the transmission oil pan and support but do not lift. Remove lower iolts (ties mount to subframe) which are threadlocked with 13mm socket. Now loosen but do not remove (if possible) the mount for the belly pan - it interferes with right side mount-to-transmission bolt. Now is a good time to peer around at your car, drivesahft flex disks, etc to look for potential issues. Raise transmission slightly and remove upper horizontally located bolts (ties mount to transmission case) and remove old mount. Install new mount in reverse. My lower bolts still had german threadlocker on them, so I just tightened them as I found them. My transmission mount was not too bad but hey, I was in the area anyway. Reinsatll that bracket for the rear belly pan. Lower jack and move it out of the way.

SHIFTER BUSHING: My car was missing it entirely! Using that 13mm socket you have rolling around under your car, remove the 2 bolts that hold a brace/driveshaft failure catch bracket in the way of your work. Oh, leave the car in 'Park' for this. Using needle nose pliers remove the spring clip/retainer and watch as it springs somewhere else in your garage, making you get up and retrieve it. Remove relay rod from shifter shaft, install new bushing onto rod and slip assembly back into shfter shaft. Now squeeze forcefully but carefully with pliers to press bushing into shaft. I had to slide the relay rod out to continue to use pliers to press the bushing in. One seated, install relay rod and spring clip. Reinstall the bracket you removed. Put belly pans on, lower car and get a beer or three. Save dirty tools for next day, enjoy the beer.

Hope this helps, feel free to add additional info.