It seems that everything that could go wrong went wrong. I had a lot of headachss. One of the biggest was that the driveline was too long. I had mine made to the same length as Gavin in his CD which was a 1/4" shorter than the length posted by Rleo. Anyway, I got it in but I had to move the engine forward to get the centering bushing on its spindle then move the engine back. This was about 1/2" So the driveshaft "fits" but not very well.

The main problem is... You got it vibration. I was a little afraid of what I might find when I did this swap. The main thing that had me worried, it that fact that I DID NOT index the auto flywheel when I rebuilt the engine two years ago due to my retarded nature Though the engine seemed to run fine without any noticeable vibration with the auto, I'm beginning to wonder if that had anything to do with the incurable hot idle shake? But, I digress. The point is I did not have a reference for the new flywheel, So I just put it on the way I had indexed the auto flywheel with the drilled out portions in the same locations.

So I drove the beast home from my buddies garage last night. Everything works great, but I've got a bad vibration at about 1600 rpm most noticeable in 4th though It will do in in the driveway if I can hold the rpm at about 1600.

This all leads me to my question: Anyone know how to use an accelerometer and an optical pickup to dynamically balance a flywheel. I can get an accelerometer for ~$30 on fleabay, and I can get Labview on my laptop easy enough, but what to use for an optical pickup for indexing the flywheel I don't know. Also I'm not real sure how to actually balance it. Would I measure the phase angle between the peak acceleration and the index from the flywheel and drill out the flywheel at the same angle physically?

Lets pool our brains and solve this problem for everyone attempting this swap

bajaman

__________________
For Sale: 1982 MB 300TD
1995 Chevrolet Suburban 6.5TD

Sold: 1980 IH Scout Traveler- Nissan SD33T Diesel