OK, got to thinking. Just had to remove 2 broken bolts to the 240D compressor mount-block setup.

Losing the love of Mercedes------My daughter, and me a little bit

So you drill your hole with the correct size drill bit. For heavens sake make sure you drill exactly in the center or you gum it all up. This I know. And it can't be in a small arealike the side of the block with hoses and a car frame in the way. And you have to use a 90 degree drill adapter and your smallest drill etc.etc
So your hole is centered ( right ) and then you have to use the stupidly designed easy-out (EO). The user end is square, small and very difficult to rotate. The only tool I know of that will hold the EO is the tap tool that comes with a tap and die set.
Unless you get a real expensive set, the tool is usually cheap ( think Harbor Freight) and will not fit into the small area you have to work in. Why oh Why did they not make the end to allow a socket to fit on it. Doesn't this make sense????

Please, please tell me that there is a better way of using an EO than with the stupid tap and die tool. I've tried adjustable end wrenches, open end wrenches are usually very small and worthless in this situation. So anyone have any better tools for this job?? If not I'll invent one, not for the money, but to save mankind from this tragedy.

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

I have no idea why they make them that way, and fortunately I rarely have had to use them, but what about using an 8-point socket- wouldn't that work?

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

I don't know either, but I will avoid using an easy out in any case. I have never gotten a bolt out successfully with them. I always end up breaking the easy out off in the process, and then have a bigger problem.

I suggest drilling out the center and following it with a tap the same size as the threads you want cleared.

Or using a reverse direction drill bit.

Good luck

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Using an easy out is comparable to using a tap. Both must be done with care and finesse. It would be ridiculous for a machinist to get out a socket wrench to advance a tap............he's snap the tap every time. The easy-out is similar. It requires the "feel" of the tool.............it must be pushed to the very limit of it's capability before it snaps. The machinist needs years of experience to know this limit with his tap wrench. This cannot be done with a socket wrench or an open end wrench. The tap wrench is the perfect tool.

If you look around on the forum, you'll realize that most folks don't have the finesse required for the easy out and snap it off in the hole more often than not. It's a difficult tool to utilize successfuly and it cannot be done with a socket wrench or a crescent wrench.

I realize that the T handle is far from ideal in a very tight space, however, the tool wasn't invented for doing machining work in the close quarters of an engine bay.

I agree with Brian, however, if you absolutely must use a "socket" you can purchase square drives from snap-on. I have a full set of square drives and have used them for tapping as well as removal of broken bolts. Notice that I did not say that all applications were successful!!

I think a 12 point socket will do the trick, but with regards to the square end, you have to realize that keeping the tap or easy out perfectly aligned with the hole your working in is the key to a perfect job. And not breaking the tap. I'd use a 12 point socket with an extention into a T handle.

I'm such a sucker for advertising... I saw this yesterday on the 'powerblock'...

http://www.brokenbolt.com/

this is the kit used by the Military, the most ingenious part is guide that allows you to drill dead center of the broken bolt. Other than that its pretty standard.

Large kit costs $650.

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Cheers,
Robert

My favorite machinist avoids easy outs too and he has about as much finesse with mechanical things as I have ever seen.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Man I couldnt agree more! 9 times out of 9 I have broken the EO inside the bolt. Talk about F!@#cked!! On 1 of my VW's I broke 2 in the same stud.

Heres what Ive learned about using the EO :

1. Go to church and quit swearing for at least a month beforehand.

2. Drill AS BIG A HOLE AS YOU CAN, AND USE THE BIGGEST EO POSSIBLE. If you stick a 1/8 EO into a 13mm stud, its gonna break off.

If you are lucky, the busted stud will be in an aluminum casting. So use lots of heat to make the AL expand faster than the steel bolt.

I dono, this is a vent here. I hope I neeever need to use another EO.

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Paul
Benz-less
I need an SDL !