striped threads on oil cooler

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Paulc66t

Had the same type issue a year ago. The solution was to buy repair nipple from MB. Pretty cheap maybe $6. Do a search on this site for the PN. Also bought the correct drill and metric tap from MSD. You cut off the old nipple flush. Drill the hole and tap it. The repair nipple threads in. Of course you need to clean it out very well after the repair. Total cost was approx $70 and I have the drill & tap for future work.

I am suprised that it cost $70. OSH Hardware has the 18x 1.5mm tap for about $13 and you can order the drill bits online from $8-$16.
I just got the correct size USA made Tap from Ebay 4 days ago for about $12.
Time is needed to shop around for a Reduced Shank Drill, that is where the main expense is. Example a local Hardware store wanted more than $30 for the reduced shank drill (which I did not buy).

I will be facing the Nipple Reapair Kit installation soon too.

[turbobenz]

In my experience these fittings are pretty robust. I just take a wrench and rip em open without using two wrenches since i can never find the right wrench. I think the problem stems from people being impatient and rushing the threads back on.

[pawoSD]

I have an oil cooler I could sell if needed, just PM me if interested. I have a couple good condition spares.

[cmbdiesel]

Originally Posted by turbobenz

In my experience these fittings are pretty robust. I just take a wrench and rip em open without using two wrenches since i can never find the right wrench. I think the problem stems from people being impatient and rushing the threads back on.

I have taken two oil cooler lines off, one took all the threads from the cooler, one didn't. My lines need changing, as they both weep, so I will do that job when I have the used replacement cooler right at hand.

[Diesel911]

When I remove the Upper Oil Cooler Hose nut a piece of the threads from the Oil Cooler got stuck in the Threads of the Nut and ruined about 3 threads as I backed the Nut Off. I was not rushing the job and it did not feel like it was that hard to turn off either.
But, the wrench I used was a big full sized combination wrench; not the cut down one recommended so I had a lot of leverage.
I only removed the upper hose connection as my plan was to only change the rubber part of the Hose and I needed that upper section of the tubing to get a measurements from to determine what size hose I needed.
In my case I had enough good threads left that I degreased everthing and coated the Oil Cooler Threads with JB Weld and installed the tubing and tightend down the nut (remember I can change my hose now without unscrewing any of the tubings).
I have been driving over a year now with no prblems with the hose or the JB Weld repair.

However, I have aquired the Tap and Drill to install a Repair Nipple at a later Date.
Since I have read that the Repair Nipples are the same Nipples that are on the Oil Filter housing; if they can be removed easily I plan to get some at the Junk Yard and use them for my repair.

[Fuzzball]

Would Teflon plumbing tape be a reasonable sealer for these connections or would it have a problem with the temperature?

[whunter]

Originally Posted by Fuzzball

Would Teflon plumbing tape be a reasonable sealer for these connections or would it have a problem with the temperature?

Not needed = it is a face/compression seal.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Fuzzball

Would Teflon plumbing tape be a reasonable sealer for these connections or would it have a problem with the temperature?

If you were responding to my post #20; the reason I used the JB Weld was not to seal it but to make 100% sure the Hose Nut was not going to pull itself off of the remaining Threads due to vibration.

While I have never looked up what the highest temp Teflon Plumbing Tape can take but I have seen it used on Pipe Plugs in the Engines Cooling and Oil Systems with no problems due to too much temp.

Where you do need to be careful with Teflon Tape is when you wrap it on the Plug or fitting start wraping it about 2 threads back from the end that goes in first.
The reason for this is I know of a few problems caused by pieces of the Tape the broke of and got into the Fuel System (on a Detroit Diesel) and plugged part of it up and in the Lubrication System.
So if you start wraping it a few threads back from the end it decreases the chance of any being exposed to circulate some place.

At that job they decided to ban the use of the Teflon Tape becaue the could not keep the Mechanics from missusing it. And, started using a product called Vibratite (spelling?); which is really nice but expensive.

[Stevo]

FWIW, last week I installed new clutch master and slave cylinders on my 85TD and I had too use Teflon tape on the nipple threads to stop them from leaking during bleeding. hoping I didn't screw up

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Stevo

FWIW, last week I installed new clutch master and slave cylinders on my 85TD and I had too use Teflon tape on the nipple threads to stop them from leaking during bleeding. hoping I didn't screw up

I have not worked on any Clutch Master or Slave Cylinders.
But, I would say if it is working right now and not leaking leave it alone for the next time you have a problem there.
But, Keep an eye on your Brake Fluid level.

[Stevo]

Originally Posted by Diesel911

I have not worked on any Clutch Master or Slave Cylinders.
But, I would say if it is working right now and not leaking leave it alone for the next time you have a problem there.
But, Keep an eye on your Brake Fluid level.

What had me a little worried about using teflon tape was the possibility of getting little bits of the stuff in the hydraulic system as you mentioned.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Stevo

What had me a little worried about using teflon tape was the possibility of getting little bits of the stuff in the hydraulic system as you mentioned.

Well I did not mean my comments to scare anyone.
A piece of tape breaking off and plugging something an unusual occurrence.
I mentioned it because that unusual occurance is very easy to avoid by wrapping the tape carefully.

In the situation you were speaking of there is pressure but not a lot of flow going on compared to a Fuel or Lubrication System.

As an example look at all the rust and gunk that builds up in your Brake System and it still manages to work for a long time even gunked up; and, your Clutch Cylinders work in a simpler but similar way as your Master Cylinder does.

It is your call as to what to do.

[xaliscomex]

Own a 1979 300sd. Replaced the oil cooler line 5 years ago. Removing the old one was no problem, however the new oil cooler line NUT would not grab the thread. I have never lost a battle with any of my cars. There's always a solution, always. Placed the oil cooler hose nut to the oil cooler thread. I then used a C-clamp, one side grabbing to oil cooler and the other on the hose nut. Centered the hose and tightened the C-clamp just enough to then tighten the oil cooler hose NUT. Continued to go back and forth between tightening the oil cooler NUT and the C-clamp. Once I felt that both threads had grabbed on I released the C-clamp pressure and spun the oil hose nut all the way, no problems, no leaks, no extra money. Worse case scenario I was going to look for a used oil cooler. Once again, wish I would of recorded it. Could of been a good and helpful upload.

[xaliscomex]

Just remembered that after the nut threads grabbed on I tightened the oil line then reversed the nut out in a clockwise and counter clockwise action until almost nut was off. It worked. Next few oil changes the nut got easier and easier to turn.