So i got to reading the lubro moly fuel additives listed 90% napatha and benzene i think was listed these are pretty common paint thinners right? is it cheaper to buy them by gallon than 6-9% for 300-500ml as they have it?

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2004 Infiniti G35 3.5L 6mt Coupe 73K miles 25.6mpg ytd
2001 Green Audi TT 225 AWD Roadster 71K 6sp 30.9mpg >>STOLEN<<
1982 300D Turbo 231K 120hp? 28.1mpg YTD

I know you can get toluene and xylene quite easily (Sherwin-Williams sells them), naptha and benzene I'm not so sure about.

Benzene and naphthalene are small and non-reactive, they leak very readily out of gasoline storage tanks/fuel tanks, I and are even worse for you -- I don't think you can buy them straight up.

Toluene = methylbenzene, Xylene is generally o-dimethylbenzene

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1983 Mercedes-Benz 240D
Automatic, A/C, Power Sunroof, Power Right Side Mirror
231K Miles FOR SALE MAKE OFFER

I have a gallon of napthalene in the basement we bought like 3 yrs ago we used to thin down paint to paint our tractor with i got it at TSC i think i just seen that and put the 2 together wondered if there was cheaper cleaning products offlabel that'd work just as well

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2004 Infiniti G35 3.5L 6mt Coupe 73K miles 25.6mpg ytd
2001 Green Audi TT 225 AWD Roadster 71K 6sp 30.9mpg >>STOLEN<<
1982 300D Turbo 231K 120hp? 28.1mpg YTD

Good solvents, also good to swell o-rings.

I'll never understand solvent-based fuel system cleaners, only work if used straight or in substantial concentration. Red-Line is detergent-based, their additives actually work when put in the fuel tank, and don't attack the rubber parts.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Naphtha is also known as white gas. Naphthalene is what moth balls are made of. They are not the same thing! Here are some links to Wikipedia:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphtha

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthalene

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1984 300TD

Naphtha and Naphthalene aren't the same thing. Naphtha is a mixture of different hydrocarbons; it's also called petroleum ether or ligrion. Naphthalene is what moth balls are made from.
All the above are really bad for you. Benzene is probably the worst. So be careful, avoid the vapors and wear nitrile gloves if you handle any of these. Of course they are flamable.
A mixture of Toluene and acetone makes a good solvent system for cleaning things like injectors and such if they're outside the engine but it can swell o-rings. As mentioned above, the detergent type (like long chain amines) work well without the swelling problems.
That said, I used to make my own fuel injector cleaner/fuel treatment for my gasoline engine. I wouldn't recommend anybody trying it, especially in a diesel engine, but it was a mixture of:
toluene, benzene, hexane, iso-octane, acetone, methanol and methyl-ethyl-ketone. It worked well and I never had any problems and I put over 150k on that engine. Again, it was a gasoline engine.
I used some Diesel Kleen in the 300SD. I haven't looked into the ingredients but I'm sure it's solvent based.

Not certain WHICH Lubro Moly product you are referring to.....diesel purge, designed to burn undiluted, is 65% D2.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Xylene/Xylol is real tough on the hoses and O-rings. Put an O-ring in a little bit of xylene, come back in a week and see how dried out it feels.

Naptha is low in octane, high in cetane and is a good solvent. I use it when I blend my fuel and like it.

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

Well and good, but Naptha, etc are all harmful to the environment. I'm not sure what is left after burning in the diesel engine, but I'm personally into not polluting the air any more than i have to. Not on a 'high horse', but just a FYI when you dump all kinds of stuff into the tank, to clean it, raise the cetane, or just something else to use as fuel.

Well, your diesel engine would run cleaner and probably smother if you burned naphtha instead of #2 Diesel Fuel. Naphtha is pretty well completely oxidized in the engine but #2 Diesel fuel has some very large polyaromatic hydrocarbons that are very stable and aren't broken down by the heat, pressure and oxygen in the engine and some pretty nasty stuff comes out the tailpipe. I'm not a whimpy--ohh---everything will kill you kind of guy but I wear nitrile gloves when changing the oil in the Diesel or handling any exhaust parts of the engine.
Anything you can do to improve the oxidation of the fuel the better. Using solvents or detergents to keep the injectors clean so they produce a very fine mist actually decrease emissions. All the solvents above would be broken down mostly to CO2 and H2O. I can see an amine based detergent producing a little more NOx but it's minor. The Naphthalene would add some chlorine to the air.
When you hear about MTBE and xylenes showing up in lakes, it's from fuel spills, not rain runoff from streets covered with automobile exhaust.
Again, benzene is very, very bad for you but it comes out the tailpipe as CO2 and H2O.
I'm sure more than anybody every wanted to know.

Running lighter fluid in a car engine?

Doesn't sound like something I'd try, but if there's evidence that it works.... oh well. Never thought about it before as being a practical option.

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Diesels like to run on "cetane" which is a long, unbranched, 16 carbon molecule. Get it plenty of oxygen = slow burn, complete burn, controlled burn.
Shorter chains will pre-detonate. Branched chains burn too irradically and longer branched chains pack more energy but don't burn completely.
Time of a disclaimer...If you try any of this without doing your due deligence for you car and your climate, don't expect me to bail you out of jail, buy a new car or say I told you so.
By the by, zippo lighter fluid would be a pretty expensive alternative fuel.

mineral spirits work excellent.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

The MSDS of Diesel Purge:
http://www.worldpac.com/msds/WP_049.pdf
...the can of the euro version (Diesel Spuelung) says "naphta"along the other ingredients...
msds of Diesel Hi-Test (euro Super Diesel)
http://www.worldpac.com/msds/WP_023.pdf

Wow, I must have had a bit too much wine last night. I had a flashback to my days as a chemist...
But to answer the original question: you can buy naphtha by the gallon, you can probably buy benzene by the gallon and you can dilute them in Diesel fuel.
Will it be cheaper? Probably not. The companies are buying the ingredients by the train car load or piping them in from the refinery next door.
Will naphtha and benzene alone diluted in DF2 work as well as the additives above? I'm pretty sure not.
I looked at the MSDSs linked above. If I were to choose between the two, I'd choose the Purge. It has a long chain amine, like I mentioned above (the 2-ethylhexylnitrate). Plus it has some extra oxygen molecules to make sure the deposits get burned completely.
I wouldn't worry about the spelling of "naphtha" vs "naphta". Them Germans can't spell nothin.
TMAllison, do I understand correctly the Diesel Purge is to be run exclusively? Not added to a tank full of DF2?
I also looked at the Redline ingredients and I like what I see.
The basic rule is "like dissolves like". The more alike the components of the additive are to the gum and gunk and soot and water and microbes and the kitchen sink the easier they go into solution (the fuel) and get burned.
Also, on the zippo comment, don't try to use it as an alternative fuel but a little would do a little bit of good. But not as good as any of the products I've seen mentioned here.