18FEB2008: Pics start on the second page: here

Ok,
So I got my bonus this week and the second to last week of February scheduled off so it's time to go shopping:
When I acquired my car I paid the indy who had been servicing it for the last 15 years to go through it with a comb and tell me everything I needed to do to get it to 80% (Mechanically sound, just not pretty).
On the list (and to be tackled now):
All Tie Rods (left, right, and center) center (1) + Left & Right (2) Febi or TRW? does it matter? (At least one vote for Febi)
Upper Control Arms (UCA) left & right + Bushings x5 (4+one screw-up)
All 4 ball joints (Do I need to buy 4 or are two included with the UCA's? ANS: Two are included, only need to buy 2)

So while this is both a series of bookmarks and journal for my project it hopefully will be useful documentation for others, I also have some questions:
Tie Rods and UCA's I think I'll be fine with these tutorials: Tie Rods and UCA replacement I'm wondering what the best & safest way to do the LCA Ball joints would be (anyone in Sac want to help?)

Also, I have no specialty tools for this job yet, but have budgeted the following above parts:
$100 tools (looks to be more than this)

• Ball Joint Separator $18

$450 Tires 4 + spare. (are these OK?)
$200 alignment. (Have not gotten quote from dealer yet, is my guess too far off?) edit:$120 seems to be the going rate.

So, here are the big questions:
1) What else should I look to do/inspect while doing this work?

• guide rod mounts
• guide rod to spring mount bushings (Actual name is??)
• steering damper (Other than a chronic pull to the right steering is fine, skipping this).

2) Besides a Pickle fork for the ball joints, what specialty tools will I need?

• Skip the fork get a lever (we'll see, I can borrow the fork, may not have the budget for the lever)
• not needed:Ball joint press tool for while LCA is on the car (HELP!!! Someone toss a part number my way!) edit: ball joint not in LCA, it's in the spindle remove spindle from LCA and walk to machinist

3) Brand and component selection? Febi parts when available, Else TRW. Tires are Dunlop P185/65R-14 85H BSW HR rated.
4) Are my Estimates Correct?
5) Anyone want to help? Beer/Pizza (Scotch&Cigars if so inclined if you bring tools ) Feb 19-24 is my window to do this.

• Lobster? no Steaks? Maybe.
• Scotch is Bowmore darkest&17, Invarity, Aberlour, The Speyside, and some others. Cigars are out of stock, but would likely be Valetubaho Reds(sp?)

Cheers,
-nB

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

Very rewarding job. Expect it to take all of a weekend - at least it did for me. You need a spring compressor if you're going to do the lower ball joints. Either pay $200 for the proper compressor or rent it from one of our good members - please don't mess around in this area. Pickle fork is fine if you're replacing everything, but I prefer the type of decoupler that you torque to pop the joints. You'll need a press kit for the ball joints and of course, a big press. A lot of members simply pay a shop to press them into the steering knuckle cheaply and easily.

The upper control arms include the upper ball joint; there's no way to separately replace those. I used Febi all around, and am happy with it. YMMV. Alignment from local dealer is $120, local speed shop is $60 dollars (and yes, they use a spreader bar). Can't speak to left coast pricing. May as well do the guide rod mounts while you have everything apart, and if you want to be super thorough, the guide rod to spring mount bushings (can't remember the actual name, sorry). Oh, and if your steering damper is problematic, its a good time for that too. It a ton of work, but the pay off in restored handling is well worth it. Good luck.

P.S. If the scotch is Lephroaig I might be talked into a trip

__________________
Tjohn

82 300 SD
77 450 SL (gone)

I hope you take pictures and tell us how it all goes!

I'll second that the dealer alignment cost me $120+tax a few months ago.

__________________

Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

If you have to remove the spindle, also replace the guide rod bushing in the LCA while you have the spring out.

I'd skip the pickle fork myself. Get one of the tierod or ball joint separators from NAPA instead. I used the ball joint separator on my lower ones last summer. I had to grind the bottom prongs to come to more of a point so I could get them to push the boot down and slide onto the joint, but once done it just took a few minutes with a wrench to pop it free and the boot wasn't damaged either (not relevant, but worth knowing how to pop them without destroying the boot).

FWIW, I recommend the Febi UCAs, but only because I know for certain that the ball in them is machined smooth. I don't know anything about the TRW ones. The worn out MB OEMs I replaced had rough cast balls.

__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

Upper ball joints are part of the new UCA, as is the inner bushing.

I would not bother with the dealer.

I would recommend a lever type separator instead. It will also work on the tie rod ends. Tool wise, the hardest thing to come by is the correct ball joint press. Maybe you could get the dealer to press in the new joints if you brought in the spindles, ready to go. (Plenty of people will tell you that a generic ball joint press will work fine; it won't.)

Beer and pizza are for oil changes. Major front end work requires something along the lines of steak and lobster.

There is absolutely no reason to use a spring compressor unless the LCA is being removed. (Removal of the LCA is not necessary for lower ball joint replacement.) Just leave the weight of the vehicle on the LCA.

Yup, zactly what tango fox said. You just jack the car up from the control arm to do the lower BJs. As long as the shock is still in place that spring wont go anywhere, There are two stops on the front suspension, one is the shock absorber and the other is a metal bar kinda deal that limits the travel of the upper control arm. I just did my lower BJ and I had the dealer press the old one out and the new one in. It was well worth the $50.

__________________
"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

Mixed signal there

If I am to have the dealer/machinist press out and in the ball joints on the LCA then I have to remove it...
If, however I want to leave the car's weight on the LCA via the jack, how do I get the ball joint in?

Also, anyone have a part number for the NAPA ball joint puller tool?
Most look to be variations on the Pickle Fork except THIS one.
And as to installing the ball joint in the LCA... Did I really grossly underestimate my tool bill This Badly!?! also, which is the right one?
-nB

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

That seems to be part of the "cost of doing business" on an internet forum. There seems to be no shortage of folks who are happy to tell you how to do a job that they have never done themselves.

You are probably more familiar with the suspension configuration on a domestic vehicle, where the ball joint is pressed into the control arm and the tapered pin fits into the spindle. On your vehicle, it's the other way around. The control arm can stay on the car; the spindle is what needs to go to the shop.

I'll bet that those "mixed signals" will straighten themselves out once you take a closer look at your car.

Here is one NAPA tool that works well:
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=3916&Description=Ball+Joint+Separator

This might help you:

Write up - Ball Joints & Lower Control Arm Bushings & Tool Review (PICS!)

__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

I did the upper and lower ball joints on my car last summer and after spending money on tools I thought I needed (you can never have enough tools) this is what I did.
I used a ball joint seperator, like you had a link for, for the upper ball joint and I used a pickle fork for the lower and yes you need to cut the end of the fork down. Now comes the part that got me, you HAVE to use the right size pickle fork because if you don't you will spend hours fighting with it. The first side I fought with and then I started using a fork with a smaller space between the forks and it popped apart in three hits and the second side I used the right fork and it took three to five hits. After I got the steering knuckle out I knocked the old ball joint out with a large socket and a hammer (they came right out). I then took the steering knuckle and the new lower ball joints to a local indi and he pressed them in for $30 each.

When I did this job I jacked up the car removed the wheel and then lowered the car on an axel stand (with a block of wood on top to protect the frame from getting damaged). I then put a jack under the end of the LCA and raised it up a little bit and then put an axel stand under the LCA and lowered the arm until it was resting on the stand. I never needed a spring compressor and you only need one if you are removing the LCA. I have read about people removing the spring with out a compressor but that sound like a big risk.

If I knew what tools I would need before I did this job it would have cost less than $250 total for tools, parts and the indi. I got a quote from a shop before I did this and they said $1200 to do it.

__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles

@tangofox007:
Thank you, I now understand
I'll be pulling the spindles off and visiting my local machinist with ball joints in hand (or is there any reason I should drive twice as far and go to my indy's shop?).

@bodyart27:
Cool, I can read more

@Phil:
I think I'm going to buy the napa tool, as it's the same cost as a pickle fork, and if I have to cut it down, then I will need to buy one (something strikes me as rude, cutting down a tool you borrowed... )
I've got to agree, removing a spring that big w/o the proper tools sounds scary


@All SAFETY QUESTION:
currently I have two of the classic strap metal with pin in barrel jack stands, and will be borrowing a pair of "proper" 10 ton stands as well. Assuming I have the car's frame on the heavy stands, is there any worry using the lighter stands to support the LCAs while I am off the the shop to get ball joints pressed in?

Cheers,
-nB

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com

Depends on whether the machine shop knows what they are dealing with. The configuration of the spindle makes it tough to press the ball joint using "conventional" tools and techniques. If your mechanic has the proper MB press, it might be worth any inconvenience.

It would be safer to do only one side at a time. Failing that, using the lighter jack stands under the LCA's should be adequate. Just ensure that there is substantial weight on the LCA so the stand is firmly held in place.

I went to an indy because he had the MB ball joint press.
I got a joint separator like the one you had a picture of and it worked great on the upper joint but when I tried it on the lower it broke in half and then I switched to the pickle forks.
My stands are rated for 2 tons each and they work fine. Remember you are only holding up 1/4 of the car with each stand. If you put the stand under the frame rail remember that that rail is only sheet metal and will bend easily so put a piece of wood between the stand and the frame to spread the weight.

__________________
1983 300SD
200000miles

Dug into the FSM and specifically found the ball joints/steering knuckle diagrams.

Now I fully understand the LCA / Ball joint issue and why one need not remove the LCA Picture for those who in the future are as confused as I was:

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
'83 300D Turbo
Current: ???K mi - 19.2mpg -> 17.4mpg -> 22.9mpg ---> ODO Died
bought at: 233.8K mi - 10MPG For $1.00
3.5 cylinders work: 320 320 100 340 280
Got insurance? FarmersReallySucks.Com