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#1
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1980 300D climate Control
I have a 1980 300D. I recently put in an aftermarket stereo & speakers - works great.
However, after doing the stereo and speakers. The climate control system is either completely off or only runs in the defrost mode. I need some help getting the control out of the dash and diagnosing the problem. Thanks. |
#2
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Did the climate control work properly befroe you installed the new stereo?
There are wires and vacuul line that can get knocked around.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#3
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Yes it worked but switched over from one mode to next slowly. I've checked to see if I knocked off any vacuum lines, but haven't noticed any yet.
I did notice two open vacuum tubes underneath the passenger side of the dash, but couldn't see where they might go to. |
#4
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I also have 300D 1980 .
Vacuum is crucial to it working. It will do exactly what is happening to you if vacuum falls off. Under the glovebox side there are one or too loose lines that stay open. One is black, can't remember what the other one is. When I developed a slow vacuum problem my climate control stopped working too. Fixed the vacuum, fixed the problem. Double check for a snug fit on those lines.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#5
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First, thanks to both of you for taking the time to assist me.
The two loose lines on my 300D are natural or white with a black stripe and yellow. Any suggested methodology for tracking down the vacuum leak(s)? |
#6
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I have noticed that I have a couple of vacuum lines (gray, brown, black w/ yellow stripe and green w/ yellow stripe) under the hood close to the firewall on the driver's side that are very loose and slip out of the rubber connector easily.
Would these be a good place to start? |
#7
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Yes, those loose ones under the hood need to be snug.
It may just be a coincidence that this happened at the same time you did the other work. The one under the glove box that is yellow I am pretty sure needs to be connected. Let me check mine when I get home. Under the hood on the drivers side, next to the brake booster. One line is for locks, one is for climate control. Another is for the reservoir int he trunk (I think). Again, I have to look at mine to get it straight. But the point is this, you can ignore the trunk reservoir and locks and connect the one for climate control directly to vacuum source and test it. If the fan starts to work normally you can then set about getting all the lines tidied up. Replacing connectors and such. It would be nice if you had a mighty vac type tester. They don't cost too much and make a lot of this much easier. If you don't have a might vac type tester then you can start the engine and use the engine vacuum coming off the feed line to the brake booster as your source and do all your testing that way. What you can't check for is leak test and absolute vacuum measurements.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#8
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Well, I've pretty well torn into the vacuum system, and at least the heat is now working. However, I suspect that someone messed with the system somewhere in the last 27 years.
Does anyone have detailed diagrams for the full vacuum system for a 1980 300D? I'm pretty sure that my system is missing some parts and may be misconnected. |
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