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  #1  
Old 01-08-2008, 08:12 PM
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84 300d turbo brake caliper....which one

how do I tell which calipers I have? looks like I am going to have to rebuild the passenger front

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Old 01-08-2008, 08:23 PM
ForcedInduction
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Don't try to rebuild it yourself, its not worth the time and effort.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2008, 08:49 PM
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Look at the anti-rattle springs. ATE calipers have flat, steel spring. Bendix calipers have a wire-like spring. Also, Bendix will have a hitch pin to secure the pad retainer pins.

Also, ATE will usually have "ATE" cast on the caliper in cursive script.
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  #4  
Old 01-08-2008, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Look at the anti-rattle springs. ATE calipers have flat, steel spring. Bendix calipers have a wire-like spring. Also, Bendix will have a hitch pin to secure the pad retainer pins.

Also, ATE will usually have "ATE" cast on the caliper in cursive script.

thanx mine must be Bendix.

ForcedInduction......why not rebuild them ????? calipers are $120ea, rebuild kit is $20ea
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2008, 09:45 PM
ForcedInduction
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There is a reason a rebuilt caliper costs $120 and the kit costs $20. It's a pita to rebuild them right. If you take it apart and find some rust on the piston then you just wasted $20 and your time.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2008, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
If you take it apart and find some rust on the piston then you just wasted $20 and your time.
A smarter option might be to disassemble and inspect the calipers before making the decision to repair or replace. In fact, that is what the MB service manual suggests.

There is no point in trying to overhaul a rusted, pitted and/or scored caliper. But neither is it necessary to replace one that is leaking only because a seal is tired.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2008, 10:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
A smarter option might be to disassemble and inspect the calipers before making the decision to repair or replace. In fact, that is what the MB service manual suggests.

There is no point in trying to overhaul a rusted, pitted and/or scored caliper. But neither is it necessary to replace one that is leaking only because a seal is tired.
I agree 100%.

I did just that last Sunday. It took all of 15 minutes to remove the caliper and find that there is now way I'm going to rebuild it myself (rusty as all get out).

Waiting for the Cardone rebuit Ate Caliper now.
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2008, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
A smarter option might be to disassemble and inspect the calipers before making the decision to repair or replace. In fact, that is what the MB service manual suggests.

There is no point in trying to overhaul a rusted, pitted and/or scored caliper. But neither is it necessary to replace one that is leaking only because a seal is tired.

actually it is not leaking it is sticking so I am hoping it is not scored just rusty or old. I dont mind spending a saturday morning cleaning these up I just cant keep putting a ton of money in this car. thanx for the suggestions, if I cant rebuild them Ill send the kits back for credit on calipers
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #9  
Old 01-09-2008, 12:40 AM
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Am in the middle of replacing the front 'Bendix' calipers on my 300CD, cause the RHS was dragging.

Just purchased reman calipers from Kragen (partsamerica) at $47.50 a side + $25 core charge. You get a core refund on the old units when you ship (at your cost) or take them back to a store. They are the correct/original Bendix units for your car.

Havn't fitted the new calipers yet, cause I'm now into a front end rebuild (that's another story ) but initial impressions of the reman calipers are good, and delivery was fast.
Calipers are available unloaded (w.out pads, but with springs, pins and clips) or loaded (with pads, pins, springs and clips).

Replaced a leaky rear cylinder on the Tahoe with a Cardone reman unit over a year ago. Again, good quality and still going strong.

Cheers!
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  #10  
Old 01-09-2008, 12:52 AM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
There is a reason a rebuilt caliper costs $120 and the kit costs $20. It's a pita to rebuild them right. If you take it apart and find some rust on the piston then you just wasted $20 and your time.
Yup, I just installed a pair of front Bendix reman's from worldpac for about $120 each (one was leaking). I also wouldn't play around trying to rebuild them. Also, you might as well replace the hoses while you have it apart.
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  #11  
Old 01-09-2008, 09:07 AM
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You guys know there is a core on these right? Also if you are paying more than $85 you are getting riiiiiiiippppped off.
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  #12  
Old 01-09-2008, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
You guys know there is a core on these right? Also if you are paying more than $85 you are getting riiiiiiiippppped off.
As I recall, the worldpac rebuilds are about $120 plus a $50 core. That's not enough of a price difference to go shopping around, I'd rather deal with someone I know.
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  #13  
Old 01-09-2008, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig View Post
Yup, I just installed a pair of front Bendix reman's from worldpac for about $120 each (one was leaking). I also wouldn't play around trying to rebuild them.
That means that I saved over $400 when I "played around" and overhauled my old calipers!!!
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2008, 10:44 AM
Craig
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Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
That means that I saved over $400 when I "played around" and overhauled my old calipers!!!
Probably, but not really worth the trouble IMHO.
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  #15  
Old 01-10-2008, 07:24 PM
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well the caliper on the pass side is junk. fwiw, can someone tell me how to remove the rotor hats? I was going to start smacking it with a hammer but thought id ask.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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