front brake related questions 84 300SD - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #31 12-12-2007, 04:22 PM

the rear pads are TINY compared to the front. If your pads do not have the sensor hole, you can drill one, but you are better off buying correct OEM pads. or texars with the hole

dannyF · #32 12-12-2007, 05:30 PM

Thank you. I ended up drilling.

dannyF · #33 12-12-2007, 05:39 PM

Yet again...

I had to take off both front brakes at the same time and I cannot recall how to place the antirattle springs - is there a good picture somewhere?

vstech · #34 12-12-2007, 06:02 PM

flat or round springs? in other words, ate or bendix calipers?

dannyF · #35 12-12-2007, 06:51 PM

VStech,

They are Bendix,

but I found another neighbor who got 'em in in about 2 minutes, so now I see how...

On another note, I cannot put the other side together. That caliper's heat shield is falling off and the dust shield is sliced anyway... A local brake store will sell me a Bendix for $80 with exchange. Seems like a good deal rather than having to rebuild that one. I assume I can replace just 1 caliper?

t walgamuth · #36 12-12-2007, 07:03 PM

The FSM says only replace in pairs. I have done one numerous times to get back on the road with no bad results.

Tom W

#37 12-12-2007, 07:25 PM

I would only replace them in pairs, unless I really could only do one for some reason.

dannyF · #38 12-12-2007, 11:22 PM

So far I only replaced the one. With a new one it comes on a lot easier

. The other was already in place and I was hesitant to pull it off again since I was hoping to leave on a trip, which I didn't do yet. The old ones both seems to work well, except the one lost its heat sink (see earlier message in thread).

So, my question is shall I delay my trip even longer (or not take it) and replace the other caliper tomorrow? My other choice is to drive with one new and one old caliper, which is not recommended by the manual (as well as by some experienced users) but some folks have done it, too. I would then replace the other when when I see fit in the future.

I am curious whether others here have just replaced one caliper (the rotors, pads, bearings, and brake line are also all new, if that is a consideration).

Proctor · #39 12-12-2007, 11:47 PM

I would say it's pitting the importance of your upcoming trip against the time involved in bleeding the system twice. I personally think you would be wise to keep those calipers in the same condition because its nice to do one job instead of two the next time.

vstech · #40 12-12-2007, 11:52 PM

Oh, as long as you have fresh fluid in there. (meaning you did flush all the fluid from the lines and both front and rear lines...) and the old one is working fine, and it's not torn/rusty/damaged, go on your trip. it's fine. please test the braking system out, and be sure it's stable and isn't going to lock up on you on a trip.

toomany MBZ · #41 12-13-2007, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

Oh, as long as you have fresh fluid in there. (meaning you did flush all the fluid from the lines and both front and rear lines...) and the old one is working fine, and it's not torn/rusty/damaged, go on your trip. it's fine. please test the braking system out, and be sure it's stable and isn't going to lock up on you on a trip.

Agreed.

dannyF · #42 12-13-2007, 01:36 AM

I had actually bled the fluid from all lines 6 months ago and am doing the front ones now, since those are new brakes. I wasn't intending to flush the rear again, since the fluid should still be quite fresh (and you are supposed to start with the rear, right?). The front lines will be empty b/c of the new caliper and new brake lines. I will definitely check the brakes before I leave to make sure they are working well.

dannyF · #43 12-13-2007, 12:50 PM

OK, Here's the new scoop. Went to bleed the brakes this morning. The new front caliper on the RHS (passenger) bled fine (I am using a power bleeder). On the LHS (driver side) I put plenty of pressure, have been pumping the brakes, etc., but no fluid is coming out of the bleed screw on the old caliper. Also, the brakes are locked on the LHS (driver - old caliper) but not on the RHS.

OK, let me guess, some rust or other substance is blocking the screw outlet on the driver side caliper from the inside.
With all the pressure and fluid I have added, the pads are now forcibly locked in place?

I guess it is time for a new driver side caliper, too? That way I will have the new pair...

Can anyone respond to these thoughts?

If I do have to replace the caliper, I guess I just need to take the brake hoses off to relieve the pressure and hopefully allow me access to pull the pads....

Thanks.
Dan

#44 12-13-2007, 02:14 PM

You should really replace them both together anyway. When you loosen the brake line it should release the pressure on the pads (hopefully).

tangofox007 · #45 12-13-2007, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Craig

When you loosen the brake line it should release the pressure on the pads (hopefully).

With the brake pedal released, there should not be any significant pressure on the pads. If there is residual hydraulic pressure, there is a problem somewhere besides the caliper.