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  #1  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:03 PM
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Angry Stupid Thermostat Housing Bolts Sheared off!!

I am out in the garage currently working on removal/replacement of the thermostat on our '83 300SD (my dads) and the two upper bolts broke off while loosening them...I even heated the housing forever with a torch....didn't help, even with lots of penetrant. Bottom bolt cracked free and was able to be finger loosened. Why are the upper ones so stuck??? Its crazy!! Now I have to halt everything and order new bolts from the dealer before I can even finish this.

Now I get to try removing the "stumps" from the two upper bolts with locking pliers or something....they'd better come out, I am going to heat the daylights out of them.....

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  #2  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:12 PM
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You don't need to order bolts from the dealer, just go to lowes or home depot and get some - IIRC they are 7mm, but bring the old ones with you and check the threads on their gauge, then just get ones of the right length. They are standard metric threads. Use anti-seize on the new ones so you won't face this again next time.
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nhdoc View Post
You don't need to order bolts from the dealer, just go to lowes or home depot and get some - IIRC they are 7mm, but bring the old ones with you and check the threads on their gauge, then just get ones of the right length. They are standard metric threads. Use anti-seize on the new ones so you won't face this again next time.
Are you sure? Are they a specific hardness or anything that would matter? I suppose we could go look for some....probably a lot cheaper that way too.


I got the stubs out by applying the torch the entire time I was loosening them with vice grips....crazyness. It appears in looking at the old bolts, that some genius used a lock-tite or something on them at some point! Gah! I will be using anti-seize.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #4  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:46 PM
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There was a former thread on this same issue.
It advised against using a particular color of loctite. Red or green.

Yeah, use anti sieze !!!!
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:51 PM
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Sorry to hear about it, had the same thing on my water pump housing.
There should not be loc-tite used, I'm also thinking no need for anti-seize.
As far as the bolt strength, don't know.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:57 PM
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Like nhdoc said - you should be able to find those fasteners at a local supply house. Don't feel badly, I have experienced the same thing. You may end up having to remove the housing to get the broken fasteners out.
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  #7  
Old 12-05-2007, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
I'm also thinking no need for anti-seize.
You might want to study up on dissimilar metal corrosion, as in steel bolts in an aluminum housing.
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  #8  
Old 12-05-2007, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
You might want to study up on dissimilar metal corrosion, as in steel bolts in an aluminum housing.
Maybe that was the problem to begin with, thanks for the heads up.
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  #9  
Old 12-05-2007, 10:32 PM
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Yeah it was probably the dissimilar metal corrosion. I was worried about it before I began. However, I got all the stubs out, and its all set and ready for the new bolts that we'll get at the hardware store tomorrow. Then it will be all set.

My car needs a new t-stat too though, so it is next.....hopefully it goes ok. I am getting spare bolts for mine as well as a new can of MAPP gas tomorrow. My propane bottle ran out on this one.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #10  
Old 12-05-2007, 10:36 PM
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I would use stainless steel bolts
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  #11  
Old 12-05-2007, 10:37 PM
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Oh man, I happened to break these very same bolts. Luckily for me, I did it on a junker at the junk yard! I was surprised at how easily they broke off!
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  #12  
Old 12-05-2007, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel240D View Post
I would use stainless steel bolts
Stainless and aluminum is not a good combination. I would recommend against it.
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  #13  
Old 12-05-2007, 11:06 PM
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it is due to dissimilar metals...use anti-seize and all will be well in the future. Never use any loctite on them!
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  #14  
Old 12-05-2007, 11:17 PM
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A really good habit to get into is replacing every bolt you take off. I have done that from a fastener supply house with pretty much every bolt I can. My dealer wanted $3 per bolt for my oil pan bolts, and they were only grade 8.8 EVERY bolt that I do replace I use 12.9, the most expensive ones yet were still only .29 cents each......why not..

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  #15  
Old 12-05-2007, 11:34 PM
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Did the same thing with the 16V. Ironically I was able to remove the studs very easily with a pair of pliers. Anti-Seize is always a good way to go in these situations. Standard hardware store bolts will be plenty good enough. The new shiny bolts even look good!

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