A few questions on the 190D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

NickCox · #16 10-26-2007, 02:02 PM

Well I have had this for 200 miles and it is getting more and more oil in the antifreeze, none in the oil. I read some where that the oil will corrode and eat my radiator, waterpump, and my cooling houses. I don't really need the car for this winter, so i was hoping to work on it and pay for parts as i go. I also saw where it may just be a cracked head gasket near an oil line to the head, and might not reqiure machining?

Will i have to get the head machined? On my 3.0 v6 mazda i didnt and it got 4k miles on it right now (really hard miles) or are diesels more sensitive?

I see you have several 190d s do you know where i might find a good shop manual for it. I'm worried about the head gasket tighting sequence and so on

Thanks a ton for your help id be lost

klaus kallas · #17 10-26-2007, 02:21 PM

Correct, it will eat up those parts. It sounds like it is a pretty bad leak, as well. Since you have another car to drive, forget my earlier suggestion!

As for machining, it all depends. If it got hot enough to warp the head, by all means it must be done. If it is due to corrosion from old antifreeze, oil, etc. then it may not be neccesary. I would take it and have it checked at the very least.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REPAIR-MANUAL-CHILTONS-1974-84-MERCEDES_W0QQitemZ320174810896QQihZ011QQcategoryZ34227QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Here is a link to a cheap manual that will cover this car. These are not as good as the factory manuals, but I think it has enough info to get you through the jobs you are doing. I keep one in the tool box mainly for quick reference for torque specs, capacities, etc. It says it only goes to '84, but the 190D 2.2 changed very little (egr valve, etc.) in '85 so the info is still relevant to your car.

I have an original OM601 manual, but they are few and far between. Keep your eyes on ebay!

Klaus

NickCox · #18 10-26-2007, 06:56 PM

Hey thanks a lot Ill have to order that manual for 4.50

NickCox · #19 10-28-2007, 03:35 PM

In the center of the 2nd picture, I am have trouble removing that ?thing?. It appears to be something with the cooling system, but it connects to hard metal. I have loosened it ,but now it is getting harder and harder.

In the first picture, that is a pic of the chain tensioner, i think. Am i just able to remove it, or is the something special to do?

On the head bolts, they take 8mm allen wrench with 6 points. Should I use the 12point one, or the 6 point one? for both assembly and disassembly?

Thanks for you help... if any of this made sense

klaus kallas · #20 10-29-2007, 05:36 PM

The pipe you are having trouble with appears to be the fuel pre-heater connection. You should be able to leave the threaded fitting in the head. Just loosen all the connections on the pipe and pull it out of the head (it has an o-ring seal inside the fitting).

The tensioner is removed by simply undoing the larger of the two nuts (the one that is around the tensioner housing, and is actually a part of it.).

As for the head bolts, I can't remember off the top of my head what size they are, but they should be 12 point. Don't forget the 2 small allen head screws at the very front of the head (inside the chain "valley", in front of the sprocket. These are easy to forget!!)

Good luck!!

NickCox · #21 10-29-2007, 05:49 PM

I got all that done, and just waiting for the head gasket. Ive been looking for a shop in my area to check the head. Is there any way to check it myself? flatness etc.

klaus kallas · #22 10-29-2007, 05:52 PM

Hmmm.... Not that I am familiar with. Perhaps one of the more technical minded members could help out here?

Klaus

shingleback · #23 10-29-2007, 07:56 PM

Use a straight edge on the underside of the head. Check in every direction, even diagonally, to make sure there is no space between the deck and the straight edge anywhere along the deck.

For the injection pump parts, I got the seals and copper washers from Seattle Injector Service recently; it was pretty cheap. When you get to that job, remember that cleanliness is the key.

NickCox · #24 10-30-2007, 10:28 PM

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true?

Well thanks for everyones help I just want to be sure i do every semi right, I don't want to tell my mom (i no it sounds lame) that my car wont be leaving the garage, be cause its broken

Also I just figured out something is wrong with my generation(not all of them, probably my area): Laziness.
car break, dad's there to fix it. Stupid video games

NickCox · #25 11-01-2007, 10:05 PM

Do I need to buy that $40 socket to remove the delivery valve. I have a feeling that I do, but I was just wondering if anyone has done it differently.

thanks

TheDon · #26 11-01-2007, 10:18 PM

check the tool rental area.. someone should have it so you can borrow it

klaus kallas · #27 11-01-2007, 10:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NickCox

In the first two pictures, there is a brown thing that holds the timing chain in line. I can't get, or don't know how to get the bolt out. I think i need to

In the third picture, I have taken the camshaft bolt out and tied welding wire to keep it timed, do I just take the sprocket off from there?

The head bolts are 8mm 12 point, but i only can find 8mm 6 point Where might I find this part?

On the IP delivery valves: I bought 4 new o-rings, but some one said I need some copper washers along with that, Is that true

Hey Nick,

The slide bolt holding the timing chain guide is threaded internally. You should be able to find a small bolt to thread in there and (since it looks to be pretty far out already) pry it out or use a small slide hammer to pull it towards the front of the car. The chain guide, as I recall, can stay in place after that bolt is removed.

Assuming you keep some tension on the chain, you should be able to take off the sprocket. Make a few orientation marks just for back up!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=126728

You can rent a delivery valve splined socket at the above link. If you can find member "billybob", he had one I borrowed as well. As for the copper washers, I wouldn't bother. Every one I've ever removed looked like new. The o-rings are the parts that crap out.

NAPA carries a socket that will fit the head bolts. They usually have it in stock at their stores. If you can't find it, and you have a week or so to wait, I can let you use the one I have.

As always, good luck!

Klaus

NickCox · #28 11-03-2007, 04:11 PM

I could not under stand what klaus kallas said about how to remove it. I must be a little brain dead. In the picture the bolt has not moved, and is in the same spot since i have taken the belt tensioner spring off. I have tried to turn it out with a vice grip with not progress.

Thanks

tuxbeej · #29 11-04-2007, 02:49 PM

I noticed way back in this thread that you mentioned that your tach stops working from time to time. I'm assuming the SRS light also comes on too?

If so, chances are good that it's your overvoltage protection relay (OVP relay). I was having the same problems with my 190D 2.5. The recommendation I see on the forum is to change its fuses, or just replace the OVP relay with a new one. I got an aftermarket relay for about $70 CAD from an online store - if you look around, you'll find one for about that much.

Apparently, you can also keep your old one and repair it, depending on how much you like to solder.

To find this relay, you'll have to look behind (ie. remove) the black plastic cover between your battery and the firewall. Look for a silver box taller than it is wide, with a translucent red or clear top. There should be a fuse under that cover.

As I understand it, this relay "conditions" the power that goes to other electronic parts in your engine (such as your fuel pump relay). It's a cheap part that prevents more expensive parts from getting fried by overvoltage. You can drive around without an OVP plugged in, but I'm pretty sure you risk hurting other components. I'm not really an expert on MB electrical, so you may want to look for a second opinion.

Good luck with the car!

TheDon · #30 11-04-2007, 07:37 PM

Tux.. great info ( a lil off topic) But the 190D 2.5 I am looking at suffers from the same issue...