Turbo rack damper bolt adjustment - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

gldncatbiofuels · #1 10-12-2007, 11:52 AM

greetings, hears the deal, I have a 300D turbo Diesel (W123) 110,450K that has a bad case of the shakes. I recently purchased an after market bosh rack damper bolt ( the gold one) and am having quit a time finding the honey adjustment spot , so the car neither loops or becomes hard to start. It seems that I might be pushing the pin in to far. If someone has done this procedure recently tell me anything, I kind of winged it and got the car to a hot idle, shut it down, cracked the lock nut, pulled the pin, replaced it and now the car still somewhat shakes ( but much better) and has an almost a surge pattern that happens when in idle, you can observe this on the rpm's on the instrument cluster, it stops when the engine is good and hot. also I notice my shifting to be a little smother than before the procedure any connection? any thing helps. thanks gldncatbiofuels

toomany MBZ · #2 10-12-2007, 03:29 PM

Make sure you have the O ring in the proper spot, and do the adjusting with the engine running. I replaced the one in the SD last November, and did not have the O ring set right, a few months went by, and my problem became much worse. Pulled out the bolt, reset the O ring. It starts just fine, and no shakes.

pawoSD · #3 10-12-2007, 04:26 PM

You can make the adjustment with the car running, thats what I do....makes it way easier to find the right spot.

crashone · #4 10-12-2007, 07:51 PM

I just changed one out. I played with it for a few days before I finally turned it almost all the way in and BAM!!! Sweet spot found, no more shakes and smooth as silk!!

Chris Bell · #5 10-12-2007, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

Make sure you have the O ring in the proper spot, and do the adjusting with the engine running. I replaced the one in the SD last November, and did not have the O ring set right, a few months went by, and my problem became much worse. Pulled out the bolt, reset the O ring. It starts just fine, and no shakes.

Where is the right spot for the o-ring? and is this the part your talking about? When I look at that bolt it does'nt look like their is an o-ring groove anywhere on it?
http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=27A18J8D327A18JC1F&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=D&part=Governor+Idler+Adj.+Pin

300SDog · #6 10-12-2007, 09:31 PM

Jeeze Louize at $92 for replacement am thinkin put it on junkyard salvage list from engines w/ less than 200k on em. Does this governor bolt ever actually wear out?

Looks to narrow passage of fuel and thats probly good for economy. Gettin noisy idle on "uncle benz" my 116 at 262kmiles, and lousy fuel mileage by 240D standards. Now thinkin to replace this bolt will pay for itself in long run over the next 100k miles at least.

gldncatbiofuels · #7 10-13-2007, 01:55 PM

Yes these bolts where out over time, they have a spring at the tip that get rather loose over time and makes the car shake like a paint mixer, Bosh makes a after market pin with a much stronger spring than that of the silver factory one. What is the correct placement for the rubber gasket, the new bolt I ordered did not come with a replacement, so I just recycled the old one. This could be a solution......

kerry · #8 10-13-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DieselDog

Jeeze Louize at $92 for replacement am thinkin put it on junkyard salvage list from engines w/ less than 200k on em. Does this governor bolt ever actually wear out?

Looks to narrow passage of fuel and thats probly good for economy. Gettin noisy idle on "uncle benz" my 116 at 262kmiles, and lousy fuel mileage by 240D standards. Now thinkin to replace this bolt will pay for itself in long run over the next 100k miles at least.

No such bolt ont he 616's, Only on the turbo 617's.(I believe).

toomany MBZ · #9 10-13-2007, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris Bell

Where is the right spot for the o-ring? and is this the part your talking about? When I look at that bolt it does'nt look like their is an o-ring groove anywhere on it?
http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=27A18J8D327A18JC1F&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=D&part=Governor+Idler+Adj.+Pin

The new bolts do not come with the lock nut or O ring, note location of the ring on your old bolt.I have just pulled, the O ring is on the threads, so I would suggest not to take all the way to the lock nut.
Pic a bit blurry, but but there ya go. Not only that, there is oil on the end, I posted earlier there was none.

3BENZER · #10 10-15-2007, 08:42 PM

When I did mine everything went great (quik, smooth start and perfect idle) until the engine was at operating temperatures, and I was stopped at a traffic light, then it would get the shakes. To fine tune it, I had the engine running with my wife at the wheel and the car in drive with brakes applied. I adjusted it in very very smal steps until the engine vibration stopped completely ( and to confirm that, glanced over my shoulder into the car and everything was calm in there as well!!!

).

toomany MBZ · #11 10-16-2007, 05:41 AM

Good to hear everything turned out OK. The adjustment is made at operating temp, idling, preferably in park...no nervous wives that way!

Chris Bell, the lock nut has a dished area on one side, fit the O ring there. In reality, it is not round, but a flat ring with a high ridge in the middle so you can peel it over the threads, and either side will make the seal. I had to pull it out again the next day, and reset it, smooth idle.

toomany MBZ · #12 10-16-2007, 05:42 AM

Good to hear everything turned out OK. The adjustment is made at operating temp, idling, preferably in park...no nervous wives that way!

Chris Bell, the lock nut has a dished area on one side, fit the O ring there. In reality, it is not round, but a flat ring with a high ridge in the middle so you can peel it over the threads, and either side will make the seal. I had to pull it out again the next day, and reset it, smooth idle.

Where you see the ring, is where the lock nut was when I removed.

#13 10-16-2007, 06:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

You can make the adjustment with the car running, thats what I do....makes it way easier to find the right spot.

That's what I did with my engine. There wasn't much difference between completely removed and all the way in.

d.delano · #14 10-16-2007, 06:51 PM

You know engine mounts may do more for for your shaking than a new rack bolt - that's the first thing you should check in your situation. Might be why you can't stop the shake.

300SDog · #15 10-16-2007, 07:11 PM

I'm still waitin to hear somebody convince me this bolt adjust is critical to my excellent running 116/SD. At 262k miles looks like it's never been touched. Hell the bolts are even collared to avoid tampering.

Meanwhile this thread was started by somebody with about 110K miles on their shakey turbo diesel. Deffinitely do engine mounts first, this "rack bolt adjust" sounds like myth to me. I'd file this thread under "wild rumors" that may or not be true.