I'm finally getting around to replacing the injector seals on my 190DT... the double-whammy of B99 and ULSD has me worried to think how much toothbrush cleaning the side of my engine / IP is going to need. Anyways, I was wondering if anybody knew of viton injector seals that would work? I've searched here and didn't have much luck, except to find out about the frypower site that sells just about everything BUT the injector seals. Do they exist? And if so, where can I purchase these panaceas of modern engineering? Or should I just get OEM seals and hope for the best?

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)

There are no orings associated with the injectors.....

Do you mean delivery valve seals and crush washers at the IP? If so, ALL 60x series pumps use the same size orings.

If you've not done that job before you should be extremely cautious and educate yourself first. Is easy to ruin a IP if you pull the worng parts.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

a member sells 6 Viton O-rings for the delivery nozzle seals for about $7
http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html
I highly suggest using Viton injector return lines on the 6 cyl engines the stuff really lasts!

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

After I posted I realised I might've been a bit vague. The seal I'm referring to is at the point where the entire injector seats into the prechamber. That is what's leaking. I'm not talking about any internal injector seal. Although the crush washers might also be a good one to replace in addition since the lines have to be off anyways.

Does that clear it up any?

I hear you on that one! I'm still wieghing my options on how to proceed. But regardless of how that happens, I want to make sure I have all necessary parts in hand before anything occurs.

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)

Yeah, I will be getting set of those... but like I said before, his set contains all but the one particular one I need.

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)

Its still not that clear....I have a feeling you are now talkig about the injector return lines (braided cloth hose) that goes from one inj to another?

That is also availabel at the website you've visited.

If you have fuel puddling between the inj and the prechamber it must come from above. Either return lines, from the two halves of the inj body itself or where the metal fuel lines attach to each inj..

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Here is a pic of my leaking #1 injector... what a mess!




So am I to assume there is NO seal between the injector housing and the prechamber? By the responses so far that is what it sounds like.

Upon further inspection (as kinda seen in the pic), it appears that I have a leak right below the big (25+mm) nut on the injector. Crap... I probably need to just have the things rebuilt and balanced. I know in the pic it looks like the leak is coming from the return lines, but it isn't... the leak has sprayed them. The return lines are less than a year old, BTW.

edit: oh, and I've seen fuel bubble up from the prechamber... squeezing around my #2 injector housing. Maybe it's air hitting a pool of fuel, but I'm guessing that it shouldn't happen either way.

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)

Thats dirty enough you cant tell where it comming from.

Invest in one can of brake cleaner and two cans of gunk and get it cleaned up. Use 1 can gunk of first and let it soak 15 minutes on a slightly warm engine. Rinse and repeat.

Then use the can of barke cleaner, again on a warm engine, not hot. Start at highest point and spray the remaining grease downward.

Once its clean and dry, run it a while and then feel for where fuel is comming from. Form the looks of it, more than likely it IS your return lines or possibly the metal fuel line on top of the inj.

Is rare for the inj to leak and impossible for fuel to come up from the combustion chamber. The bubbling you see at teh bottom of the inj is trapped grease, dirt, oil and fuel boiling off.

A new oil cap might stop some of the mess from happening again.

ps: there is no spray of fuel from that area unless the seal of the metal line is messed up. The return lines return dribbles of fuel that dont make it into the inj's back to the fuel tank. No pressure.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Yeah, this engine needs cleaning badly! I will probably lose pounds off of the car once it's all spiffed up. I've just been putting it off until the leak was fixed... I'm not procrastinating, really!

But you are probably right on it being the return line or the top seal. At least those aren't expensive fixes. And it wasn't the oil cap making all that mess up top... it's the breather hose that needs replacing. But I'll end up replacing both anyways since the oil cap looks like ass. Are there any nicer-looking ones out there?

Oh, and thank you for your help!

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)

replace return lines. *************** has them cheap. it's either that or the injector lines are loose

I see your return lines are starting to weep that may be part of it but the fact you saw bubbles at the PC chamber is an indication there is probably is a leaking heat shield, under the injector. They are less than 2 bucks a piece, and as long as you are pulling the injectors they need to be replaced.
Since the injector lines have to be loosened you'll find the small plastic clips will probably all crack and need to be replaced, there are two sizes depending on the number of rigid lines they clamp so buy a whole set.
Don't overtorque the nuts securing the lines to the injectors (a crowsfoot wrench is useful here), the ball end can crack then it will be time for a new line I just snug them down after cleaning them with WD40 (great cleaner BTW)!
You may want to have the injectors rebuilt at least checked and balanced as long as they are out, if you have a local Bosch shop like we do in the Bay Area they can do a short notice turnaround if you call ahead, and you might get lucky and they let you watch the testing! BTDT.
A little work there and you'll have a good looking and hopefully great running engine!

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

DDH - WHO is our local Bosch Servie center?

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Yeah, good stuff!

And I looked online for a Bosch shop around here and couldn't find anything in my county. Maybe you have a better site to search for local shops?

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The stable, er, 1 horse :
1987 190D 2.5 Turbo (running well, and bloody-well better since it's the only car I have now)