99 E300 Crankcase Vent - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

aklim · #1 07-24-2007, 01:19 AM

A couple years ago, I had my intakes cleaned out. Today they and the head are with that goo. I took out the hose and plugged up the tube leading to the turbo. That vent is now venting into a hose that leads to the bottom. Any issues I need to know about? TIA

#2 07-24-2007, 01:23 AM

That car has a mass airflow sensor. It's a small amount of air but It might result in some over-fueling at full power because it will think it's pulling in more air..

Parrot of Doom · #3 07-24-2007, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

A couple years ago, I had my intakes cleaned out. Today they and the head are with that goo. I took out the hose and plugged up the tube leading to the turbo. That vent is now venting into a hose that leads to the bottom. Any issues I need to know about? TIA

So how does the moisture in your engine escape from the engine now you've removed that pipe from the air intake?

uberwgn · #4 07-24-2007, 09:01 AM

aklim, it's not a big deal. My car was set up like this, too.

Guys, the input for these waste gases is post-MAF, just above the turbo. I never experienced any CEL for flow deviation, etc.

The gases are vented out beneath the car. Sometimes you get a little drip or two of oil when the car is parked. I would keep an eye on this during cold weather. You don't want that pipe to freeze over. Bad things could happen when pressures go sky high

aklim · #5 07-24-2007, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Parrot of Doom

So how does the moisture in your engine escape from the engine now you've removed that pipe from the air intake?

Instead of going into the turbo it flows out of a hose that I hooked up. Basically vents to the atmosphere but I put the downward hose just to make sure that it doesn't oil up the engine area.

aklim · #6 07-24-2007, 09:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by uberwgn

The gases are vented out beneath the car. Sometimes you get a little drip or two of oil when the car is parked. I would keep an eye on this during cold weather. You don't want that pipe to freeze over. Bad things could happen when pressures go sky high

The hose is basically pointed down for now. Later on, I plan to make copper pipes but still make sure they are all downwards so that any moisture or oil fumes don't collect and freeze.

TMAllison · #7 07-24-2007, 01:34 PM

If the only goal is to limit the sludge build up in the IM and valve runners it would be more effective to block the EGR. The procedure has been posted here previously.

aklim · #8 07-24-2007, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

If the only goal is to limit the sludge build up in the IM and valve runners it would be more effective to block the EGR. The procedure has been posted here previously.

Even if you did that, won't there still be oil floating around the intercooler? Is it easy to block off the EGR on a 606.962? I know somebody made a plate for doing other intakes but not sure they will work for my 606.962

TMAllison · #9 07-24-2007, 03:45 PM

Do the search and you'll find it.

If the goal is to keep the IM clean, that is a better solution. On mine the intercooler pipe stays perfectly clean. The other side of the EGR is where it gets nasty.

I for one wouldn't do the EGR block or CCV disconnect as so many devices are interconnected via sensors etc on our cars.

BioPOWER · #10 07-24-2007, 04:50 PM

My charge air pipe from the intercooler is also clean as a whistle, indicating very little blow-by. The intake gets all crudded up from the EGR valve onward.

I've heard disconnecting the EGR vacuum hose on a W210 will throw a CEL, but that's not to say the corrugated pipe can't be blocked off without affecting the EGR valve's operation. Personally, I see no need to disable the EGR, other than eliminating the crap in the IM. The EGR is only open at idle, so it cannot affect performance (eg. turbo boost) while driving.

patbob · #11 07-24-2007, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BioPOWER

The EGR is only open at idle, so it cannot affect performance (eg. turbo boost) while driving.

As I understand it, the EGR is closed at idle, and full boost, but open at moderate boost. At idle, the engine is very sensitive to not getting enough air and combustion temperatures are not all that high anyway. At high boost, you end up having to fight the boosted intake pressure to get the exhaust gasses into the intake airstream, robbing the system of too much power if you try.

Have I had it wrong all this time?

Venturi is apparently the way to go with this stuff, but it's apparently difficult to get it to fit under the hood without causing a major intake restriction

Rick Miley · #12 07-24-2007, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

Is it easy to block off the EGR on a 606.962? I know somebody made a plate for doing other intakes but not sure they will work for my 606.962

We've been over this and over it and over it. Short answer is no you can't mess with the EGR on a turbo model without doing something electronic to fool the ECU.

Here's the argument thread.
EGR Block plate for 97 E300D

And here's somebody who actually tried it.
EGR 606 turbo mod experiment

nhdoc · #13 07-24-2007, 06:49 PM

I guess I just don't see the point of all this trouble...when I bought my '98 it had 115K miles on it and I had the intake cleaned out. I watched as the tech scraped out a layer of black crud with a knife. It wasn't all that thick, maybe one or two mm and it was not hard to remove. According to the records I had that would have been the first time it was done.

Last December, at about 140K miles or 25K miles later I had to remove the intake to replace some fuel lines and IP DV seals and the intake was still pretty clean with just a film of black oily layer on it so I didn't even touch it.

So it looks like it only needs attention about every 100K miles...is it worth messing with the engine and possibly doing other damage to avoid having to clean an intake manifold every 100K miles? Even if you wanted to be super diligent and do it every 50K it would not be all that hard to do it. I can now remove the IM in about 15 minutes and replace it in about the same time so cleaning it out really isn't too bad a job.

It's also possible that with the new ULSD there will be even less crud built up in there too...I'd say leave it stock and avoid dealing with possible troubles...that's my $0.02 worth of advice.

BTW - I just returned from a 2200 mile round trip to western NC in the E300...it performed flawlessly...never gave less than 30 MPG even at altitudes of up to 5000 feet with A/C blasting and I don't anticipate removing the IM again until 200K miles unless something goes wrong before then.

The car has been amazingly well behaved in 2007...I've literally done nothing to it other than replace the oil/oil filter and spin on fuel filter in the last 12K miles. And the fuel filter was purely as PM since I used some B20 and wanted to prevent any problems on my trip. It's finally running like a real Mercedes