Removing Head in 603, Comments? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

justinperkins · #1 05-31-2007, 03:01 PM

I'm getting ready to remove the head in an 87 TD. I've got most everything out of the way and was just looking at the procedure for removing the cam. It notes that I need to remove the SLS/Power steering pump and I'm concerned that the I'm going to run into high-pressure lines for the SLS. Is this true? The FSM makes no mention of being cautious with the removal of the pump, so maybe I'm just being paranoid.

Any other general comments on this procedure? I've been reading all the existing threads on it and other than following the proper sequence for removal/installation, everything seems straight forward. I'm feeling pretty optimistic at this point.

The coolant expansion tank was bone dry on this car, also the coolant temp sensor wires had been hacked to be connected to each other, rendering the temp gauge completely useless. No wonder it was overheated and continued to be driven. People are so stupid sometimes

babymog · #2 05-31-2007, 07:22 PM

No high pressure.

If you add a load to the rear of the car, the valve will call for more fluid, connecting the reservoirs to the pump which will seep fluid out. Best to block the rear-end a bit higher than it was sitting, then the valve should be closed on the supply side and avoid losing a lot of SLS fluid out of the pump lines.

justinperkins · #3 05-31-2007, 07:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

No high pressure.

If you add a load to the rear of the car, the valve will call for more fluid, connecting the reservoirs to the pump which will seep fluid out. Best to block the rear-end a bit higher than it was sitting, then the valve should be closed on the supply side and avoid losing a lot of SLS fluid out of the pump lines.

It will do that even when just sitting there? I didn't realize that. I will block it up. Thanks for the heads up.

#4 05-31-2007, 07:52 PM

just pulled the head of my 350sd. don't forget the bolts under the cam

it has hydraulics too, but I didn't need to remove the ps pump

jshadows · #5 05-31-2007, 11:31 PM

follow cam and head loosening/tightening sequence. It's tedious and painful, but absolutely necessary.

Mark cam and chain with nail polish or equivalent when at 15 deg ATDC. it may move a little bit when you're loosening the cam gear bolt but don't worry..just make sure you line up the nail polish when you put it back together and it'll be in time.

hughet · #6 06-01-2007, 04:56 PM

Put the motor at TDC not 15ATDC. (It is in the manual and I have done it) Remove bearing caps 1, 5 and 6. Then slacken both bolts on bearing caps 2, 3, 4 and 7 one turn at a time in sequence until the counterpressure is reduced. Then you can lift the camshaft upwards. It is a very tight fit so be sure to reinstall with the TDC marker lined up exactly with the line on cap 1.

justinperkins · #7 06-01-2007, 05:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hughet

Put the motor at TDC not 15ATDC. (It is in the manual and I have done it) Remove bearing caps 1, 5 and 6. Then slacken both bolts on bearing caps 2, 3, 4 and 7 one turn at a time in sequence until the counterpressure is reduced. Then you can lift the camshaft upwards. It is a very tight fit so be sure to reinstall with the TDC marker lined up exactly with the line on cap 1.

Yeah I was thinking the 15 ATDC didn't sound right, considering the FSM says TDC.

How about those two pins holding the upper chain rail, do those *really* require a special tool? I was thinking some washers that have a larger inner diameter than the outer diameter of the pin and a screw that matched the pin threads would do the trick.

Here's my head! Good ol' #14

jshadows · #8 06-01-2007, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by justinperkins

Yeah I was thinking the 15 ATDC didn't sound right, considering the FSM says TDC.

How about those two pins holding the upper chain rail, do those *really* require a special tool? I was thinking some washers that have a larger inner diameter than the outer diameter of the pin and a screw that matched the pin threads would do the trick.

Here's my head! Good ol' #14

oops. I was quoting incorrectly off the top of my head confusing with IP removal (because I have removed the head too). all responses here should be verified with the FSM anyway..especially head removal

.

Your tool idea will work and I don't see how someone could ever get a puller in there and have pulling room in the first place.

The thread size/pitch of the of the pins will match several of the bolts you will remove including the radiator fan. get appropriate length bolt from wherever when you figure it out.

hughet · #9 06-01-2007, 08:31 PM

I needed impact when I did mine. I tried it with screws but couldn't budge the pins so I made a puller out of a 3 inch long pipe nipple with ends and a 5 pound barbell weight. Drill a hole in the end of one of the caps for the bolt that you screw into the pin. Then screw the pipe nipple onto the end, slide the weight onto the pipe and screw the other end on. Grab the weight with your hands and give it a few whams. If it still doesnt move heat up the area around where the back of the pin is in the head.

a2t · #10 06-02-2007, 12:10 AM

See a crack anywhere in head? Did it seize? Bad compression?

Take some pics of the head where its cracked if it is (hopefully not!)

justinperkins · #11 06-02-2007, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by a2t

See a crack anywhere in head? Did it seize? Bad compression?

Take some pics of the head where its cracked if it is (hopefully not!)

Have pulled the head so haven't seen any cracks. I don't know much about the engine other than the PO drove the hell out of it. The coolant temp wires were hacked to be stuck together so it'd be an open circuit and there was no coolant in the expansion tank.

He told me his wife drove it while it was overheating and kept on driving it for quite a while. Once it was parked, it never started again.

You can count on me taking lots of pics once I get in there.