Resealing injection pump on 606 diesel - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

LostinFL · #1 04-24-2007, 05:11 PM

I have noticed that my 98 E300TD 117k is leaking fuel from my injection pump. Can anyone give me an idea how complicated a job it is getting the pump resealed? (I'm looking for a mechanic I can trust who knows the 606). I called MB and they have a seal kit so at least I feel better that I won't have to replace the entire IP

I also remember whAt a bear my other diesel was when anything having to do with the injection pump - timing etc. I assume this is the same for the 606 eng as well?

98 E300TD - 117k
88 560SL - 98k
84 300TD - 249k

TMAllison · #2 04-24-2007, 05:17 PM

Many of us have done the "Delivery Valve" seals here. Is not difficult but is a job you do slowly usually.

Involves replacing one o-ring and crush washer per valve and torquing back down. Easiest to R & R intake manifold first but possible to do with it in place (I took mine off). Requires a special splined socket and torque wrench.

Has nothing to do with pump timing.

If you want to do it yourself let us know one of us will walk you through it.

LostinFL · #3 04-24-2007, 05:47 PM

Wouldn't even attempt doing it myself. One thing I;ve learned over the years is that these engines are a bit beyond my "untrained" mechanical ability. What's sad is that the "old timer" German mechanics who know MB diesels inside out are all retiring and the new guys (if you can find em) are shying away from diesels altogether. Sad.

My former mechanic sold his shop 2 years ago and after 20 years with him, I'm still trying to find one I can trust. The local MB dealership - forget it. They botched my head when changing a defective glowplug and wouldn't stand behind the repair. Think I'll ever give them another shot? Unlikely

TMAllison · #4 04-24-2007, 06:01 PM

Hmmm....stuck GP's are a known problem on the 606; they may have been more at fault for not explaining that up front than for botching the job.

Any good indie should be able to do this for you and will probably have the socket if they work on any diesels from the 90's. Should be 3-4 hours shop time and $30 in orings and gaskets.

LostinFL · #5 04-24-2007, 06:27 PM

Stuck I understand. They replaced #5 and over-tightened it breaking it off at the base in the head (and not telling me about it)

http://kissaneasylum.typepad.com/motorcar/2007/04/ouch_that_hurts.html

Needless to say, it was a "interesting" one for my now retired mechanic to straighten out.

I yearn for the MB dealerships of old

TMAllison · #6 04-24-2007, 06:43 PM

That looks more like the classic seized senario to me where one twists off being removed, but you may be correct.

Am certain it is painful to remember regardless.

LostinFL · #7 05-11-2007, 06:26 PM

Terry
My local guy did the seals and just like you said 3-4 hours. When he pulled the manifold he was also able to fix a bad glowplug and replaced the troublesome plastic fuel lines (at $9 each - did em all). All of these things cheap to do when you've got the mainfold off. About $350 out the door - what a deal !

pimpernell · #8 01-17-2008, 04:47 PM

I have a 96 e300d, and have a leak at the delivery valves. I have the seals, but the one step that I could not find an answer to is the collars that are in the area of the splined nuts. Do they need to come off before the splined nuts, or do they stay in place, and the splined nut simply unscrew? Thanks for any info you can provide.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Many of us have done the "Delivery Valve" seals here. Is not difficult but is a job you do slowly usually.

Involves replacing one o-ring and crush washer per valve and torquing back down. Easiest to R & R intake manifold first but possible to do with it in place (I took mine off). Requires a special splined socket and torque wrench.

Has nothing to do with pump timing.

If you want to do it yourself let us know one of us will walk you through it.

TMAllison · #9 01-17-2008, 05:21 PM

There is a splined washer and a screw for every two DV's. I suspect thats what you are referring too.

They are simply hold downs to keep the DV's frmm moving after they are assembled. Remove em.

engatwork · #10 01-17-2008, 05:39 PM

Do you have a local Bosch diesel shop? They can perform this job.

I think removal/replacement of the 606 IP is alot easier than the 616/617.

pimpernell · #11 01-20-2008, 12:21 PM

What not to do when installing delivery valve seals. After reading most of the information regarding changing out the seals, I proceeded to take on the job. Removed the IM, hard lines, lock down collars, and, instead of entirely removing each valve holder, I partially unscrewed each one, and worked the old seals out. I read of this technique in one of the posts, and felt that it would eliminate loosing any of the small parts. The old seals did not follow the holders out, but I was able to gently work them out with a small screwdriver. When I went to install the new seals, I failed to notice that there were two grooves cut into the valve holder, and I inadvertently installed the new seals on the upper most grove, torqued the holders down, reinstalled everything and went out for a short spin. Well, after about 3 minutes, I went out to take a look, and almost all the delivery valves were leaking. Back into the garage, and with nothing else to try, I decided to carefully remove one of the valve holders and have a look see. Well, it was then that I realized that there were two grooves in the valve holder and I had installed the new seals in the uppermost one, which is the wrong one. All work was repeated, with the new seals going into the correct grove, and I am happy to say that everything is dry as a bone. Just like to thank everyone that responded to my questions, especially Terry.

TMAllison · #12 01-20-2008, 01:49 PM

Glad you got it done with no further mishaps.

Did you go for a dirve with the IM (and crossover, in your case) off or put it all back together first?

Running it first with IM off is a good test of the system. The code for the EGR is one that clears itself I think.

pimpernell · #13 01-21-2008, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMAllison

Glad you got it done with no further mishaps.

Did you go for a dirve with the IM (and crossover, in your case) off or put it all back together first?

Running it first with IM off is a good test of the system. The code for the EGR is one that clears itself I think.

I wish I could say I took the first drive with everything off, but that was not the case. After putting the "o" rings in the proper position, I left everything off and started it up. Ran fine with not leaks, so I put the IM and crossover back on, and it has been totally dry. Only difference is the engine sound at idle....a little louder than usual, but the rpms remain within 2-3 rpms. I have a scangage installed, and was able to clear the codes with no re occurrence. Car seems a little livelier from a dead stop (could be my imagination), and no issues whatsoever at highway speeds. Thanks again for all your valuable information and suggestions.