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Hello Everyone

I have been using Seafoam in the fuel for a while now.

I finally read the can.

It says you can put it in the engine oil also ???
Can you really do that ???
What would it do there ???
If I did put it in the engine oil, how long do I leave it there before draining the oil ???

Have any of you guys used Seafoam this way ???

Thank You
Have Fun
RichC

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When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace.
Jimi Hendrix

Don't use any oil additives.

Its a cleaner. Run a can thru a day or two before you plan on doing an oil change. I havent used it yet but its on my list of things to do.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
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#1995 E320 Touring
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OBK #42

rich
Use auto-rx instead. It is a slow enzyme type cleaner that dissolves the gunk in your engine over a couple thousand miles thus not dumping large amounts or big chunks of sludge into your oil.

website auto-rx.com

by the way i am only a happy customer and don't profit anything from this

Steve

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85 300d in progress

Mercedes Benz specifies to not use any additives in the oil at all

I would use ATF for a couple hundred miles before the oil change. Drain a couple quarts and add ATF. After that run it and repeat when you are a couple hundred miles from another oil change.

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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

The question I would ask is why you would need to do this? The engines in your stable are all 617's, correct? The only reason I could see to add an engine cleaning/flushing additive is if you have a problem you need to correct. Scheduled oil changes, hard running and good oil is usually all you need to keep the insides of the engine clean. Don't use it just to use it.

I have however added engine flush additives to engines that had crud in them to clean them out with good results. I have also used ATF to quiet hydraulic lifters in high-mileage engines. My work truck will develop a pretty good lifter tick every 10K or so. I add a quart of ATF, usually Mobil 1 ATF, at the next oil change and the tick goes away in a few hundred miles. Sure it comes back but it takes a while. If I had a MB with ticking lifters I would try ATF in that too. RT

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84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

Synthetic MOTOR oil is a better way to stop ticking lifters with MBs.

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Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later!
-German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123.

Don't waste your time. Oil goes in engines, Fuel goes in the fuel tank.

Change the non-mineral oil regularly, and you don't need to waste money on flushes or additives.

Synthetic doesn't always do the trick on its own. The ATF is a good alternative to try before taking things apart. RT

__________________
When all else fails, vote from the rooftops!
84' Mercedes Benz 300D Anthracite/black, 171K
03' Volkswagen Jetta TDI blue/black, 93K
93' Chevrolet C2500HD ExCab 6.5TD, Two-tone blue, 252K

IMO, Yes and No. If there is already crud there, it would take a long while before it would dissolve everything. So, I would use the ATF then switch to synthetic.

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow

My indie friends have told me, repeatedly not to use any engine additives unless you know you have a problem ( sludge found when doing a valve adjustment) . These products will remove the build up around the the gaskets and seals which will eventually result in leaks. Regular oil changes and good oil ,synthetic oil is a good cleaner, will keep your engine clean and healthy. My 240D has all documented oil changes for the 261K on the clock, not a speck of sludge or anything on the valve gear.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

My 2.5 88 mb has a lifter noise and I used cd-2 ,it worked for about 500 miles then the noise came back,additives are a cheap fix.Im going in for lifter ,aka tappet replacement.The atf sounds good before a filter change but why waste good trannie fluid when the oil already is dirty ,3000 mile oil changes with filter makes my engine happy .Ive read here that some oils have certain lifter life extending qualities in them preadded.My tappets have become increasingly noisey lately ,does anyone have an opinion on the new low sulfer fuel and lifter noise issues?

I don't think you want tranny fluid in the crankcase for too long since it doesn't have the lubricating properties that motor oil has. You want it there long enough to dissolve the crud that has built up.

__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke
99 E300 Turbodiesel
91 Vette with 383 motor
05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI
06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red
03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow
04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler
11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow