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#1
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Confusion about hub/rotor removal
I need to replace the driver's side front brake disk on my '85 300TD (wagon).
I read a few posts here that lead me to believe that just a big hammer was required to remove the hub/rotor. But the factory manual I have suggests removing the hub cap and then loosening a hex screw. It has pictures of exotic tools that look expensive. I see no way of removing the hub cap without these exotic tools. I removed the tire and caliper. I banged on the rotor with a hammer with no success. The rotor appears rusted to the hub. Wouldn't these come off as one piece if rusted together? The hub will not budge. It feels like something else is holding the hub. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance,
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JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#2
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Take off the actual hub cap, undo the locknut on the watchmacallit, unscrew said watchmacallit, take out the bearing, and pull off the hub.
Look on the backside of the hub. You will note 6 (if I remember right) hex bolts - you will want to remove those, before you can remove the disc from the hub. It takes a little ooomph - a vice would help. Don't forget to pack the bearing.
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#3
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Yes, you're missing something.
The rotor is attached to the hub with 5-6 (can't remember) hex head screws. The problem is that the hub and wheel bearings need to be undone in order to access the hex screws, which are behind the hub. Don't just hammer on it, expecting the rotor to come off.
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Bob '82 300D Petrol B-G Metallic |
#4
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it is six allen bolts.
after you get them out (you will need an allen in a socket and a half inch breaker bar with a 6" extension to get them out). they are right tough to break loose. and when you reinstall you want to use some red locktite too. let us know if you need help getting the hub off. do you have a repair manual? these things are downright simple to work on most of the time if you have a repair manual. good luck tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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Front Rotor
1984 300d Turbo
Install The Tire Back On The Wheel And Hold The Tire On The Floor Next To A Wall It Will Not Turn And Use A Allen 2 Ft Ext To Break The Allen Bolts The Rotor Torque To 80 Pounds Install The Bolts With Blue Lock Sealent |
#6
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Thanks!
How do I remove the hub cap? My repair manual shows using a special MB tool.
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
#7
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I used a universal 3 arm puller, and pulled with my hand, (do not use the screw in the puller!)
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Ich liebe meine Autos! 1991 Mercedes-Benz 560SEL | Megasquirt MS3-Pro | 722.6 transmission w/ AMG paddles | Feind Motorsports Sway Bar | Stinger VIP Radar | AntiLaser Priority | PLX Wideband O2 | 150A Alternator | Cat Delete 1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Blown engine, rebuilding someday... 1981 Mercedes-Benz 300SD | Rear ended, retired in garage. 2009 Yamaha AR230HO | Das Boot Excessive speeding? It ain't excessive till I redline! |
#8
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Use a soft mallet, place a short, stout flat blade screwdriver in the groove, gently tap,(you have to hold the screwdriver at an angle towards the outside), rotate, tap again, when you see the cap moving from the hub place screwdriver in crack and gently tap, rotate and so on until the cap comes off. You will see the locknut with a 6mm allen bolt, loosen it, unscrew the nut, the bearing will be behind it. That small piece of metal thing that is sticking out of the end comes out, put it back when you reassemble, that is for noise suppression. You know the rest....
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If it ain't broke take it apart and find out why. 1983 300SD, 4 speed 1994 C280 1987 300TD wagon 1996 HD Road King Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon |
#9
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Might want to mentally note how much spin/friction you have now - so that when you put the locking nut back on the spindle, you don't have your hub/wheel too loose or too tight.
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#10
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I don't think anyone mentioned....
The Allen (socket head) bolts require a 10mm Allen socket......
.....and do not over grease the hub...... also, you should do brake rotors in pairs...... Actually, I don't know exactly how to comment here, and not hurt someone's feelings......but the brake rotors are a "sort of" a self evident and simple job....if you are at an early point in your automotive mechanical hobby....it's a good idea to clean and repack your wheel bearings when doing this job.....it's also a good idea to replace the inner bearing seals......but if you choose NOT to remove the inner bearing then you must be very careful NOT to get any dirt into the wheel hub.....a couple of clean rags should be inserted in either side to prevent foreign stuff from entering...... Re-bolting the hub to the wheel is a good tip.....it helps.... don't hang your calipers by the brake lines......make a little wire hook....or use some wire ties to hang the calipers..... clean everything.....and clean your greasy fingerprints off of the disc.....ose brake cleaner.....and if you add grease.....use wheel bearing grease formulated for disc brakes......plain old EP-2 will not do...... Good Luck...... SB
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Diesels: '85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG '84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG '77 240D (parts car) '67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP) Gassers: '94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG '85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car '58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG |
#11
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Quote:
Thanks everyone!
__________________
JWJ 1983 MB 300D - > 430,000 miles - Deep Blue - Bilstein Comforts - 0-60 in 24 seconds - 27MPG 1985 MB 300TD (wagon) - > 275,000 miles - Manila Beige - Thule rack - 0-60 in 18 seconds - 22 - 25MPG Biodiesel, Mobil Delvac 1, and Viton fuel lines! |
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