78 240D Manual Question - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

CBase · #1 03-17-2007, 12:52 AM

The Land Lord at my shop has a 1978 240D manual with 180,000 miles on it. The body is very good with only a small spot of rust on the front where a rock may have hit it, the interior looks good with small cracks on the dash, has manual windows. There is one hub cap missing. I have not heard the engine run but he says it does run, I think he said it has been sitting at least 5 years maybe more. He is going to try to get it running so I can test drive it. He is the original owner, said he used to buy one every two years. I was wondering what kind of problems there would be after sitting for so long and would like to get some forum users opinions of its value based on a decent running of the engine, if it turns out it runs fairly well, and if it would be worth the time and money for the manual trans.

Thanks
Chris

Mustang_man298 · #2 03-17-2007, 12:59 AM

5 yrs is a long time to sit. Definitely the entire brake system will need to be gone thru, and probably the clutch hydraulics as well. Even if they appear to work at first they can easily be prone to sudden total failure after that long of a sit. Gormmets, flex discs, and hoses would be the next things I would think of.

barry123400 · #3 03-17-2007, 01:19 AM

In general different climates seem to affect different things to some extent as well. Your climate is pretty good but here we have to use heated storage for long periods of idleness or the problems from sitting are usually gigantic. From my perspective you may have a chance to buy a low miles original example. That is not awfully common in itself and well worth dealing with quite a few related issues as and if they do arrise.

t walgamuth · #4 03-17-2007, 07:01 AM

i disagree that sudden and total failure is likely.

there is a good chance if it was running well when parked it will start right up with not too much problem.

the glow plugs need to work correctly and it must be getting fuel. it is not a bad idea to pull the glow plugs or injectors and squirt in some light oil in each cylinder. just a couple of squirts and then turn it over til the oil pressure comes up and then put the glow plugs or injectors back in.

some fungicide in the fuel for good measure and clean oil and fuel and air filters.

if the glows are inoperable it can be started by pulling providing it is getting fuel and has enough compression.

my favorite machinist and i started a pontoon body diesel once that had been sitting a lot longer than five years. and the fuel in the tank was fine.

once you get it running you will need to check hoses belts and brakes. pretty good chance some calipers will be stuck too.

good luck

tom w

cessna5354 · #5 03-17-2007, 07:34 AM

I would drain all fuel out and pull the fuel tank to shake out all crap and sediment which might be there. If no sediment fine, if some it will blind over the tank screen and result in loss of power. Of course new primary and secondary filters. Great thread on removal, maybe 1-1/2 hours out and back in.
Good Luck with the find !!!!

t walgamuth · #6 03-17-2007, 08:05 AM

draining and removing the fuel tank is a huge task which might well be completely unnecessary.

sorry to disagree.

just start by using some fungicide in the tank. if there has not been water in the fuel it should be perfectly fine and ready to go. i had a tank in my building that i found to be full of heating oil and which had been sitting for at least forty years. it was fine. i checked it first for bacteria etc. but ran a tank ful of it in my 350sdl, then sold all the fuel to a friend who operates heavy equipment, who used it in a week or two with no ill effects.

i always try to remember not to jump to conclusions. it is very easy to jump in and fix problems that don't exist. this can sometimes backfire and cause trouble.

good luck. good chance the car is very nice with few problems.

tom w

cessna5354 · #7 03-17-2007, 08:27 AM

Tom,
Did not jump to a conclusion, just been there with a car which sat (garaged) for 5 years. In Ca. the condensation might be void, but here in a humid at times NJ, the tank had to be replaced. I did not replace it initially, ( thought I might get away with the additive) 200 miles and two tows, I pulled the tank and cut my losses.

I did not consider the location when originally writing the thread. But I still would not hesitate to pull the tank, It is no be deal.
Just two approaches.
We buy these cars to work on them do we not ????

t walgamuth · #8 03-17-2007, 09:51 AM

well, no doubt you needed to do it on your car.

but to me even draining a diesel tank is to be avoided at all costs. what to do with all that smelly fuel?

i once drained an old caddy tank and had a tough time getting rid of all that nasty old gas.

just hoping he can aviod it if possible.

tom w

cessna5354 · #9 03-17-2007, 11:56 AM

We are in total agreement that the most effective fix for the car is what is needed. I just did not know how much was needed until I got stuck twice. Not again...
The old diesel can be disposed of as waste oil. I do not like the smell nor my wife, but I did not want to run it thru the injectors, IP and such either.

Mine runs great now and Hopefully his will be as well soon...

Take care..