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#61
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Quote:
Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#62
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Quote:
Rino
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1979 240D, W123, 105K miles, stick, white w/ tan interior. |
#63
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holy crap
Holy crap batman...
What was the result after all this for the original poster.... I face the same issue, although i am leaning toward repair kit due to $$$. What is the issue with the heat shields..... I think I could handle the rest mechanically?
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
#64
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I didn't see this posted in the thread thus far, so here you go.
http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2CB0VK7FH2CJ11T8R4&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1979&product=N1050-70213&application=000403568 thats the link to the rebuild kit from Fastlane. rebuilding the calipers is easy. I used a air compressor to eject the pistons. changed the seals and used a pair of channel lock pliers to reinstall the pistons. very easy and strait forward. using the air compressor is kinda scary the first time. i took a piece of scrap plywood and stuck it between the pistons. and then put another piece of plywood over the whole so that the pistons didn't fly across the shop. then used the air blower nozzle with the rubber tip and stuck that in the port for the brake line. they pop out with a loud bang. keep your fingers out of the way. once they are out clean them with break fluid. clean the caliper with brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush. then clean it with brake fluid. install the rubber square cut seal into the bore in the caliper, and then coat that with brake fluid. then install the piston. using break fluid as lube. only use break fluid, other lubes will not react well with break fluid later on. installing the pistons will be tight. this is where the channel locks come into play. once the piston cups are back in then attach the rubber dust covers, and then the heat shields. it takes about an hour to rebuild both calipers. maybe 2 if you really take your time, which is a good idea on the first time thought. i found it very worth wile. 13 for the kit and i bought calipers from the junk yard for 12.99 each. so 25ish a caliper and then another 10 bucks for brake fluid and brake parts cleaner. you have a new set of calipers for 60 bucks. not bad.
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1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
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#65
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I have done mine (fronts on my 107) and they came out great. . here we go. . .
get the rebuild kit (see link above for a picture of the parts), and get hoses, dont be cheap, it will only be a pain in the azz later. . . you'll also want to get some shop towels and a couppla cans of brake cleaner, once again dont be cheap, get two or three, trust me. . . 1) Remove hose from line 2) remove caliper (2 bolts in back, I forgot what size they are) 3)take the caliper away from the car (brake cleaner and paint dont mix) 4) remove the hose, throw it out. . .its probably bad (mine were 30 years old) 5)Take a nail or punch and knock out the pins that hold the brake pads in place (I took my caliper halves apart using a breaker bar and an impact socket, this is not advised because it can cause sealing issues, in my case I didnt encounter this problem. I only learned of this afterwards so I feel I must include this) 6) to remove the piston take two large screw drivers and pry it out by placing the screwdrivers on equal sides of the piston (essential for ease) It worked fine for me, but if you have compressed air that is ideal. 7)replace piston seal and remove old dust cover external seal if it didnt come off earlier 8) lube piston seal with clean brake fluid for ease of installation 9) install dust cover and metal cover (new) 10) reinstall caliper 11) Bleed out air and replenish brake fluid with new This is how I did mine on my 107 about 7 months ago. . I Learned MB brake systems. .dead easy, if yours isnt corroded behind the piston, your set, you DO NOT need a reman unit, remember the ATE calipers use very tight tolerances, if your metal finishes look like new, your set if they are corroded they will stick and not be functional. . .replace the rubber and you'll be golden. . . PM me if you have any questions, Ill be happy to assist. . .
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". . .back before accountants designed cars" -Current Stable- '78 MB 450SL-C 107.024.12.020783 #3840 <Kayleen> '85 FORD F250 6.9L Diesel <Allison> '98 Lexus ES300 <Rachel> Long Gone... '74 Chevy G10...........................'99 GMC Yukon 4X4 '83 Chevy Suburban 6.2 diesel .....'99 SAAB 9-5 '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS............. '01 Chevy Tahoe '98 Nissan Altima .......................'02 MB ML320 '88 Chevy Suburban V2500 4X4 6.2 diesel |
#66
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thanks
I don''t seem to have a sticking issue or frozen caliper.
I think the seals are just worn out. The caliper is ATE. My brake pads are about 15K new. I am leaning toward repair kit.... I am a decent DIY, done Brake MC, Radiator, hoses thermostat, sterring coupler, shocks, all fluid changes, body hardware r&r, plus much more I am forgetting, plus brakes on other cars, just not this one yet....
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85 300CD Turbo "Das Polluter" 230K sold for $3,000 98 BMW 323is |
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