Is the oil cooler *really* necessary? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

thorsen · #31 02-16-2007, 11:59 AM

Wow, so much drama.

Drive the car on a normal trip, open the hood, feel the top of the oil cooler. Is it hot?

ImBroke · #32 02-16-2007, 01:22 PM

Since it appears as if nobody has done it on a Mercedes Benz, how bout you be the first to do so, and report your results?

But, the thread has only been up for two days. I'd give it a couple of more days for some people to respond. I'd like to see the results.

Hatterasguy · #33 02-16-2007, 01:25 PM

If you never drive it up on the highway you won't need it. They really open up and start to work on the highway, thats when most old ones blow a hose to. I think on the 603 the T stat for the cooler fully opens when the oil is 90C. You notice this because you lose about 1/4 bar of oil pressure when it does.

If you want to know how hot your oil gets just drive the car on the highway for a bit, and shoot the oil cooler intake line with a inferred thermometer.

Like I said above, if the car is a beater and you don't fell like spending $100 on new lines by pass it. If the car is not a beater I don't get what you are trying to gain. I don't understand why anyone would remove a perfectly fine oil cooler?

240Joe · #34 02-16-2007, 01:26 PM

This thread just echoes how easy our old diesel are on oil. If it weren't for the soot contamination, you'd never have to change oil in these beasts.

The oil cooler is just one of those things that adds to making these cars bullet proof. In normal conditions, it doesn't do much and wouldn't be needed. If you're pulling a load through the desert or up a mountain, it helps. Also, if you pulling a 4 bottom plow with it, I'd keep the cooler in.

240Joe

Shawn D. · #35 02-16-2007, 01:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImBroke

Since it appears as if nobody has done it on a Mercedes Benz, how bout you be the first to do so, and report your results?

That's just what I'm figuring on doing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

If you want to know how hot your oil gets just drive the car on the highway for a bit, and shoot the oil cooler intake line with a inferred thermometer.

OK, I'll try to find a tool that's implying it's a thermometer!

Oh, an infrared thermometer -- yeah, I have access to one.

I don't think I'd notice anything until the weather warms up anyhow -- the oil cooler feels only about 20 degrees warmer than ambient these days, even after doing 75 mph for 30 miles (and the car's not overcooling either, as it's running at 90C with no fan).

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Like I said above, if the car is a beater and you don't fell like spending $100 on new lines by pass it. If the car is not a beater I don't get what you are trying to gain. I don't understand why anyone would remove a perfectly fine oil cooler?

The oil cooler is perfectly fine. The lines aren't. I'd just like to have one fewer leak (amongst the many) without shelling out $$$. Besides, reducing weight is like gaining HP!

pawoSD · #36 02-16-2007, 02:23 PM

Unless its like 5F outside and I drive slow, my oil cooler is also quite hot after all drives lasting more than 10 minutes...meaning its used quite a lot (probably over 85-90% of the time) thus, it needs to be there. Don't remove it. I replaced mine with a brand new Behr one, and OEM lines, about 2 years ago. Well worth it.

Hatterasguy · #37 02-16-2007, 02:48 PM

I can't spell!

You can have at local shop crimp on new lines for about $30-$50. How much is the car worth? $500 then screw it, by pass it. $3k, then fix it!

t walgamuth · #38 02-16-2007, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn D.

I knew this was going to be controversial!

I do appreciate all the input, but up to this point, it's all been speculation about why it's necessary. The only hard data that's been presented is the temperature that the thermostat operates at.

Yes, I understand it contains an "extra" quart of oil. No, that will not help with refreshing the oil if it doesn't get changed out, nor will it provide extra cooling if all it does is sit there lounging in the tubes 'cause the thermostat hasn't opened.

Yes, I understand turbo engines run hotter and have turbo bearings to cool and piston squirters that increase the oil temperature. No, that will not matter if the temperature doesn't get high enough in my driving to open the thermostat -- the presence of, or lack thereof, the oil cooler will be irrelevant.

Yes, I understand that oil that has gotten too hot will damage an engine and harm the oil's properties. Again, no, that will not matter if the temperature doesn't get high enough in my driving to open the thermostat.

Yes, I understand that not having the oil cooler would give some buyers second thoughts. No, I am not doing this with any consideration of resale. In any case, I have already mentioned that this will be a reversible mod.

Folks, as I have said multiple times, I am not going to remove it blindly! I was already planning to install an oil temperature gauge (IMO, all vehicles should have a full complement of gauges) and will be able to determine once and for all what the temperatures really are. It's beginning to look as if I'll be the only person to have actually done so!

well excuuuuuuuuse me.

tom w

DeliveryValve · #39 02-16-2007, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn D.

.....Folks, as I have said multiple times, I am not going to remove it blindly! I was already planning to install an oil temperature gauge (IMO, all vehicles should have a full complement of gauges) and will be able to determine once and for all what the temperatures really are. It's beginning to look as if I'll be the only person to have actually done so!....

I will give you my support to test this idea of cooler removal and find out its results so you can report back to all of us!

I think you should place the temp sensor somewhere on the oil filter housing. This will require a little drilling and taping. Then you should have accurate results there.

Good Luck!

Quote:

Originally Posted by networkboy

….I was doing some towing (sled dragging up a 45% incline, repeatedly, then off to the dump with a full load and trailer) with my Chevy truck and noticed that my engine didn't sound happy after a few hours of that, burnt the trans fluid and oil

(regular ATF and castrol 5-50 synthetic). Changed the oil right then and had the ATF purged at a quickie place…..

BTW – Castrol Syntec is a Group 3 hydrocracked dino oil. It is not a true synthetic like the the PAO synthetic base Mobil 1. I am not surprised you burned that oil. I used it in my Toyota until I changed out my timing belt myself few years ago. I was pissed to find varnish all over the inside of the engine even though I changed the oil every 3000-4000 miles.

I did some research and found out it was just highly refined regular motor oil. I switch to Mobil 1 after that experience and I hope it cleaned out all the varnish.

savage10ne · #40 02-16-2007, 07:52 PM

Easiest way to replace oil cooler lines. In my opinion.

Have the whole thing made in Hydraulic hose from a hydraulics place.

They can reuse the fittings on the end.

They could either just replace the rubber part. Or replace everything. The rubber and the steel with hydrualic hose.

The hydraulic hose that they used on my 300SD had 3000PSI limit and withstands 275+ degrees celcius.

Very flexible, and a whole lot easier than lifting the engine and fishing around with hard steel OEM lines.

Shawn D. · #41 02-16-2007, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by savage10ne

Have the whole thing made in Hydraulic hose from a hydraulics place.

Yep, I've had that done before for other applications. If I find out the cooler is actually doing something, that'll definitely be an option.

waybomb · #42 02-16-2007, 09:55 PM

FWIW - I have 9 oil coolers on my boat - 2 for each engine, 1 for each trans, and a power steering oil cooler. The oil temp can be seen rising on hard hauls.

Hatterasguy · #43 02-17-2007, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shawn D.

Yep, I've had that done before for other applications. If I find out the cooler is actually doing something, that'll definitely be an option.

How many engines have you designed?

I tend to think the Germans back in the fatherland who built these cars were pretty smart...

Gurkha · #44 02-17-2007, 02:03 AM

Point is, oil reaches places where coolant can't, ring land, top end, every nook and cranny in the engine, and best of all, it has heat transferring ability, so why not let it do its good job, even if your coolant temp is low, its not an indicator of what the actual temps are in critical area.

#45 02-17-2007, 02:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

How many engines have you designed?

I tend to think the Germans back in the fatherland who built these cars were pretty smart...

I agree, my 1971 300SEL 3.5 had a huge oil cooler, and the oil would look like honey when I changed it, it also used no oil between changes. The car had over 300k miles when I sold it.