OK, DON'T put 195/75/R14 on your benz!! - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tobybul · #46 11-19-2006, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henrydupont

the only code I can find is 92 s M+S

it's probably because I have 195/70/R14 in the front?

I believe the M+S means its strictly a winter tire and to be used only for that season, so says the folks at Discount Tire and the manufacturers...

If I understood your other post, 2 of them are M+S and 2 are not. Plus, sounds like they are different sizes.... Sounds like this combination causes what you experienced to happen.....sounds like a safety issue to me and maybe not worth the risk...

#47 11-19-2006, 09:13 AM

I agree using M&S tire in the summer (or mismatched sizes) will not give great performance. The "92" on the tires is the load rating, which corresponds to 1389 pounds:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=35

Personally, I pretty happy with the current tires on my 300D, 205/70-14 Firestone Affinity LH30 (93H). They seem to work will under all conditions and have worn well for about 20k miles so far. I keep then inflated to about 30-32 psi:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Firestone&tireModel=Affinity+LH30

They cost me about $400 installed at a Firestone store.

Hatterasguy · #48 11-19-2006, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

All you 300SDL dudes should thank the stars that you have ABS.

I'm gratefull all right, putting the macho I can drive anything don't need no stinkin computer, aside its a grand thing. I had to do an emergency stop with the SD last year because some idiot cut me off on 95. I was used to the SDL, slam on the binders and she stops in like 10ft. Not with the SD rear tires locked, rear end got funny. Yeah it was an eye opener.

With the SDL I'm used to being able to out break brand new Saad 9-5's and keep up with BMW's.

Macho aside ABS is a grand thing, traction control even better.

#49 11-19-2006, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjc

henrydupont, you didn't say which car you were talking about with these tires. On the 1980 300SD, I think the OEM size was 185R14 (a 75% ratio sidewall), but those were pretty hard to find in the US, so they generally got replaced with 195-75R/14. Now, people prefer 205-70R/14, which have the same circumference as 195-75R/14. The most important thing on a big, heavy Benz is to use a speed rating of at least H. (You could use U, but that's uncommon.) A speed rating of S or T (or lower) can be unsafe.

pjc

the '80 sd. I'm gonna get some decent 14/70/195's for it...

Palangi · #50 11-19-2006, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shorebilly

G'mornin',

I had read about this "may pop" condition....both here and elsewhere on the net (I did a search after reading here).....I hate to toss tires with really good tread (and pay to toss them as well $2 each, here in WV)....so I have been running the Regatta 2 and they just don't seem to wear much on the tread....thus I will live with them for now.....

Did you have any indications that your tires were gonna fail....before the actual failure??? Did you keep up with tire pressure....I've been running 30psi front and 32psi rear......will be making a 1500 mile trip to N'awlins for Thanksgiving, just finished inspecting the tires for any abnormalities.....trip will be a tad over 3000 miles of Highway driving....and probably another few hundred miles of city/counrty driving....I just dislike having to deal with any sort of mechanical or tire problem while traveling.

Thanx,
SB

Mauri en te moaningabong

No warning, they just popped when they felt like it.

I alway ran them at 31 psi. I suspected that might be part of the problem since most American cars would run less pressure than that. The Benz would fishtail noticably at 25 psi or so. They might be OK tires on American cars, but they were sure lousy on the Benz.

PanzerSD · #51 11-19-2006, 07:04 PM

a normal tire isn't really prone to popping unless it's been "curbed" a few too many times, overinflated in the summer or under inflated in the winter. In Canada, with snow tires it's recommended to air your tires to the normal pressure, with All seasons, air them down to 30Lbs. For Winter Driving.
2 lbs makes a BIG difference..
if you live in the heart of the wintery climate you likely have studs in your tires, and studded tires up here, by law, can't be more than 36 studs..

If there's ANY bulge on the sidewall, on wither the inboard or outboard side, it'll blow in short order on a highway trip. and any tire that has tread down to 1/16th or less to the tread ware indicator will likely blow if it is driven on a long trip on a hot day.

I say this because I've lived it... a front tire blasting from it's rim at 120Kmh on a 36*C day is NOT very fun, and will cost you money, not just in repairs, but you'll also have to buy a new pair of underware....

and that's my Rant about tires

thank you

babymog · #52 11-19-2006, 07:27 PM

M+S means that it has a Mud and Snow rating, often that is simply a change in rubber formulation adding some silicone or other to make it hydrophobic. It is considered a "4-season" tire then and most new-car equipment tires are rated M+S.

A snow tire or studless ice tire is something completely different.

S, H, V, Z etc. ratings on the tire are speed ratings, ... H for example is supposed to endure sustained speeds of 130mph within the rated load and properly inflated. Increasing this speed rating does NOT automatically increase the load rating! Completely different ratings.

Yes you get what you pay for. All tire manufacturers also have cheap and most have excellent tires, depends on where in the linup your tire falls. I have run mediocre Michelins and very good ones, even BFG makes some decent tires, ... oh yeah, didn't they buy Michelin a few years ago?

- Jeff
'87 190Dt
'87 300Dt

#53 11-19-2006, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babymog

M+S means that it has a Mud and Snow rating, often that is simply a change in rubber formulation adding some silicone or other to make it hydrophobic. It is considered a "4-season" tire then and most new-car equipment tires are rated M+S.

A snow tire or studless ice tire is something completely different.

S, H, V, Z etc. ratings on the tire are speed ratings, ... H for example is supposed to endure sustained speeds of 130mph within the rated load and properly inflated. Increasing this speed rating does NOT automatically increase the load rating! Completely different ratings.

Yes you get what you pay for. All tire manufacturers also have cheap and most have excellent tires, depends on where in the linup your tire falls. I have run mediocre Michelins and very good ones, even BFG makes some decent tires, ... oh yeah, didn't they buy Michelin a few years ago?

- Jeff
'87 190Dt
'87 300Dt

good info dude. I thought this m+s couldn't be just a snowtire, I've seen too many here in tennessee for that.
Michelin rules in my opinion, or pirelli. but the car that started this thread isn't worthy of that

even though I love it.
thanks for all the info everyone

Ara T. · #54 11-20-2006, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Got_The_Benz

a normal tire isn't really prone to popping unless it's been "curbed" a few too many times, overinflated in the summer or under inflated in the winter. In Canada, with snow tires it's recommended to air your tires to the normal pressure, with All seasons, air them down to 30Lbs. For Winter Driving.
2 lbs makes a BIG difference..
if you live in the heart of the wintery climate you likely have studs in your tires, and studded tires up here, by law, can't be more than 36 studs..

If there's ANY bulge on the sidewall, on wither the inboard or outboard side, it'll blow in short order on a highway trip. and any tire that has tread down to 1/16th or less to the tread ware indicator will likely blow if it is driven on a long trip on a hot day.

I say this because I've lived it... a front tire blasting from it's rim at 120Kmh on a 36*C day is NOT very fun, and will cost you money, not just in repairs, but you'll also have to buy a new pair of underware....

and that's my Rant about tires

thank you

I dunno about that bulge in the sidewall, it seems it's normal for some tires. I know my tires will still have a bit of bulge in the sidewall at 32 PSI.

PanzerSD · #55 11-20-2006, 01:08 AM

all I've seen with bulges is they eventually seperate at the bulge and if you rub on curbes enough it'll be a blow out area. we honor warranty on tires that are sold at my shop if they have or devlope a bulge. any kind of sudden shock to an inflated tire. I've had tires still on the machine as I'm mounting them, bulge after hitting with a mallet to get the bead to seat. oh well, new tire. tires are kind of like recordable CD's yeah, they're typically reliable, but there's at least one or two bad CD's in a pack...poor analogy, but you get my drift

if it's bulged, I replace it...

Shorebilly · #56 11-20-2006, 05:05 AM

Curb, whatsa curb...????

Can't damage a tire by hitting/rubbing a curb sround here.....

had to do that to pay back them "snow, what's snow..." folks....

SB

t walgamuth · #57 11-20-2006, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

I dunno about that bulge in the sidewall, it seems it's normal for some tires. I know my tires will still have a bit of bulge in the sidewall at 32 PSI.

i think you are talking about the bulge at the bottom which stays at the bottom no matter if the car is moving or still. this is normal for a radial tire.

the bulges to watch out for are the ones that go around with the tire. they are a bulge where the rubber separates from the unerlying structure and allows air through to form an actual bubble. these are a sign of impending disaster.

tom w