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#16
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Does the trim on the rear window of the W123 clip on as well?
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#17
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I've removed and replaced several windshields
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#18
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Not sure if you want to call it clip-on. More like "stick-in". Imagine a T with the horizontal part of the T being the visible portion of trim. The vertical part of the trim has a barb on it, that runs the entire lenght of the trim. Clean that barb off, before you reinstall the trim into the seal - so you can be sure it will grip.
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D |
#19
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That is how I was picturing it. The car goes under the knife Friday for a new seal...tired of my trunk filling with water.
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#20
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Be Very Careful with the Trim!!!!
It doesnt tolerate mishandling or bending. I guarentee once you bend it out of shape you wont get it back in, its impossible. Make sure the Safelite man cuts the old seal first with the windshield tool. He should be able to work around the trim. Either that or make sure he removes the trim as one intact rectangular piece first and then cuts the windshield.
The reason is this. The trim plugs into a slot in the seal. If you have to bend it or play with it to make it pop in the slot after its been mishandled, you may cause a tension crack on the outer edge of the windshield. THat would be the Shop's fault and not your windshield fault. Again I don't understand why a rotted seal would cause window damage upon removal. All you do is cut it out with a sharp wire. Removal is the easiest part. Installation is the tough part. |
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