Need a little help rebuilding a Garrett turbo on an OM617 1982 300SD. Please see attached picture.

I’ve removed the six “1” bolts, the four “2” bolts, and four of the six “3” bolts (3b, 3c, and if you imagine them continuing around the far side, 3e and 3f). Anyone who’s done this knows the remaining two “3” bolts (3a and 3d) are blocked by the oil inlet and oil drain flanges and cannot be removed without separating connector housing “C” from exhaust turbine housing “D.”

I’ve also separated the intake/compressor housing “A” from the component labeled “B,” exposing the compressor fan blade and the 10 mm 12-sided nut holding the blade on the shaft (not visible in pic). I have not removed the four “4” bolts; that would permit separation of housing “D” and exhaust connector “E,” but it would yield no benefit other than allowing easier access to the nut on the exhaust end of the shaft (“5”).

If I unscrew the two remaining “3” bolts (3a and 3d) until they touch the oil flanges on connector housing C, and then unscrew more, it looks like they will push housings C and D apart. The problem is, it feels like that also puts increasing pressure on the compressor fan blade.

So my question is this: Do I first have to remove the compressor fan blade and/or the exhaust fan blade from the shaft, or will separating C and D cause the entire shaft assembly with both fan blades to come out with the B/C housing?

Incidentally, the nut on the exhaust end of the shaft looks like a hex nut with one point removed—sort of like a baseball home plate. A 14 mm socket will fit, but it slips off when I use it to hold that end of the shaft tight while removing the nut from the intake end of the shaft. I’m also told the nut on the exhaust end has an opposite-handed thread. Any suggestions on how to get the shaft assembly apart? Or do I not need to?

Attached Thumbnails

 

The turbine/shaft are cast as one and the compressor wheel is clamped onto the other end.

Example:

Attached Thumbnails

 

Sorry to hijack your thread, but your diagram is so well labeled that I think this is a good opportunity to ask:

Which of the bolts would be removed or loosened to "clock" the turbo?

Edit: just so I am providing something usefull here is are pictures of the "B and C" part of the turbo with the compressor and turbine housing removed.

Attached Thumbnails

     

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

bgkast, thanks for your pix. The middle one answers my question. Looks like I just need to keep unscrewing bolts 3a and 3d and the core w/shaft and both fan blades should pop right out.

And ForcedInduction, thanks for your pic, too. If indeed the turbine (exhaust) blade is fixed on the shaft, I should be able to unscrew the intake blade nut if I can get a good grip on the turbine blade nut. I have to wonder, though: The nut in your pic and the one on my unit do not appear to be symmetrical, which suggests their centers of mass are not at the center of the shaft axis. Wouldn't that make the shaft+blades imbalanced, especially at 100K+ RPM?

bgkast, I hope you're not asking me about "clocking" the turbo. That's beyond my level of comprehension. You may want to edit your post to put that question in the title; it may make it easier for smarter members to find/notice/answer.

I'll be happy to write up a DIY article on this process, with pix, when I'm done, so any additional advice would be appreciated.

I wasn't asking you specifically, but you can probably answer my question if I word it better. All I am asking is which bolt set would allow the compressor housing to be turned relative to the turbine housing (to allow intercooler piping to be clamped to the outlet, rather than it plugging straight into the intake manifold)

Here is the ebay auction I got the pics from if you want to replace your compressor and turbine while you are rebuilding: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garrett-TA03-CHRA-Mercedes-Benz-Turbo-CHRA_W0QQitemZ300037764445QQihZ020QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

__________________
1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

That's easy then. The "1" bolts. Those six bolts connect three clamping plates, each about 8 cm by 1.5 cm, to the A housing. The plates have a straight outer edge and a curved inner edge. You can see two of them in the photo above; one directly below the "1" arrow, the other at the top of the A housing. These bolts do not pass through section B, they merely place pressure against its outer lip. When those bolts are loosened, A will spin freely (assuming the outlet is disconnected from the intake manifold). These bolts are not difficult to loosen. When you tighten them, don't overtorque; remember housing A is aluminum.

A 12-point socket should fit on the turbine side. Once the compressor wheel is removed, you should be able to pull the turbine/shaft out by hand (With the housings removed).

Part of the "nut" on the turbine side is ground off to balance the wheel. It may look like alot of metal but at 100,000rpm, off-balance steel has alot of mass and they can't take metal off the blades.

Yeah, it struck me after looking at bgkast's third picture above that the reason my turbine-side bolt is not symmetrical is that that's what makes it balanced, not imbalanced. And, of course, that's consistent with that side of the assembly being fixed.

for you to study.

Engine Mechanical:
Air Intake:






Have a great day.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

whunter, thanks for the reference. I looked through those threads before starting this process, and I did glean some useful info.

I separated the core from the exhaust housing, and successfully removed the compressor fan blade from the shaft. I then removed section B and the next two components ("G" and "H" in the first pic below). Finally, I removed the spring clip ("I" in the second pic below).

Now I'm stuck again. The shaft doesn't want to budge (it spins, but won't pull out), but I can't figure out what to do next. I don't want to start banging or forcing, which might risk damaging the turbine blade. Any help?

Attached Thumbnails

   

For insurance put that 10 mm nut on to prevent damage to your threads. All you have to do now is change the bearings and whatever other parts you want to change, once you tap the shaft to release it. Getting those snap rings out at your "I" was the most difficult part for me. Also, DON'T FORGET that piston ring that goes in a groove near the exhaust turbine, back of the turbo (WHICH IS PROBABLY IS WHAT IS HOLDING THE SHAFT AND CAUSING YOU YOUR CONCERN). It's easy to overlook, unless you have a kit that has one and that reminds you that you have left out a part, but on the other hand, kits often have parts that you will not need in your application. Anyway, you are home free. Replace the parts as you took them out and put the turbo back together. You might want to check the shaft to see it is burned or scored or otherwise damaged. I think (SOMEBODY SAID) that if you see a purpleish color that indicates that your shaft "might be" damaged and need to be replaced. But in my opinion, if the journal that the two bearings ride on are smooth and polished, then I don't see why the turbo wouldn't respond to the new parts that you put back in, especially the bearings and seals. Also, you don't even have to worry "too" much about the turbo not lining back up. If it doesn't line up on the first attempt, you just look at it and see which way or whatever you need to do to get the turbo to align properly in relation to the engine. Anyway, you are at the door, all you need to do is go on and open it (complete the rebuild).

BenzDiesel

Hello all,

Where can the bearings be bought from? Need a source for my 84 Garret 300SD and (not sure make) wife's 93 300D 2.5

Thanks for any and all replies.

Adriano

__________________
Adriano

83 300SD 500,300 miles (Well seasoned work horse AKA "Put Put")
93 300D 245,000 miles (Moms Baby AKA "Sweat Pea")
87 300D 185,000 miles (Life giver, aka parts car for my 300SD)

I bought my rebuild kit ($48.67 plus reasonable shipping) from Columbus Diesel Supply, 1575 Integrity Dr East, Columbus OH 43209, phone 614.445.8391. The kit includes the two bearings plus other parts (see pic; bearings marked).

There are a couple of threads (for example, http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/17299-turbo-rebuild-post809807.html#post809807) that refer to a place called M&M in Houston, but they couldn't sell me parts because of some regional distribution restrictions (I live in Virginia). You may have better luck depending on where you live.

You'll need to know the part number of your turbo, which you'll find on a little plate on the back side of the compressor housing if yours is a T3 like mine. It should be the six digit number (or six plus one) that starts the second line. Mine, for example, is 465228-3.

Note the Garrett rebuild kit does not include the gasket that fits between the two halves of the compressor housing, which you will definitely need to replace. I ended up buying one from a local guy who rebuilds turbos for a living: Tim's Turbos, 3217 Annandale Rd, Falls Church VA 22042, phone 866.3TURBOS or 703.241.7411. He also cleaned and balanced the shaft assembly for about $50. He has a website (timsturbos.com) and an email address, but I'd recommend a phone call. He may be able to hook you up with everything you need, including a complete rebuild job should you decide not to tackle the job yourself.

Attached Thumbnails

   

I found these guys the other day : http://www.gpopshop.com/garrettt3kits.html

And previously i bought a kit from these guys

http://www.dieselusa.com/

no way to purchase online but very friendly and prompt service over the phone

__________________
1982 300TD 210K miles ("The Replacement" aka "The Anvil") - SOLD
1979 300SD 245K miles (never ending project)
2007 Pinarello F3:13
1995 Ducati 916 (SOLD, sniff)
1999 Ducati 900SSie (SOLD)