Brian,
What did you plug the pressure line with (is it very high pressure)? Didn't this leave some type of fitting where it was removed that had to be filled with something? What.

Another thread is looking for a summary of all that can be removed:

EGR/Emissions removal 1981 300SD

Maybe you'll join that thread also - please.

Charles

Sorry for the above post. Most of what I asked was on the next pages of the thread. Being a newbie, I saw the submit square (actually one at the bottom of every page) and thought I was at the end of the thread. I'll try to be more careful.

Charles

OK, I've now read the entire thread and I appreciate how often the regulars are writing the same responses. The only confusing part was trying to keep straight if the comments applied to all models, 123, 617, etc. Now I'll commit to some wrench and mightly vac time and see if I can't fix several related problems.
Thanks,
Charles

The thread is dedicated to the 603, but, Lance and a few others have also removed the ALDA on the 617. The general consensus is that the 617 will be prone to smoke unless you're very careful with the pedal. YMMV.

My 603 with the alda turned up 1turn will leave a black puff at the starting line from a full-throttle take-off. It is just a small black puff for a fraction of a second, probably as the turbo starts to spool up. Removing it might not do any more.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Please excuse me if I missed something. This thread is 455 post long and then adding the links, I am sure I missed some.
Has anyone tried removing the alda from a 602. I believe it is the same as the 603 but with one less cyl. I have read many pro's and many cons on removing the alda but was thinking 'how can I test the theory without actually removing the alda". Unhooking the boost line will not work. Well, how about installing a one way check valve in the boost line. When boost comes up the first time, the check valve will hold the pressure on the alda. Would this be the same as removing it altogether? In other words, the alda would think that boost was always up and allow the extra fuel at all times. I know that any leaks in the line would let the pressure off and would have to be repaired. It could be plummed in before the over boost switchover valve and you would still have the overboost protection. Any thoughts?

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

Most of the ALDA's leak a bit. If yours leaks...........even the slightest bit...........the check valve solution won't work.

If the leak is minor, and you have the high line Mityvac that can apply pressure..........connect the pressure side to the ALDA and route the Mityvac into the cabin. Drive it and give it a squeeze every 30 seconds or so..........assuming the leak is not too great.

This really wouldn't be worth the effort. If you want full enrichment all the time (which I still disagree with, btw) then pull the ALDA. Forget messing with check valves, etc. Like Brian said, the leakdown will render this mod useless.

FWIW, my '93 300D with the 602.962 has the sealed, round canister style ALDA, which cannot be opened or rebuilt. (The older square ALDA's can have the internal seals replaced if they're leaking.) The top adjusting locknut refused to turn, and rather than force it, I chose to use shims to add fuel (since I don't agree with ALDA removal). With an extra 1.5mm shim installed, it's a bit overfueled... it will smoke more than it should with heavy throttle leaving a stop. I haven't had time to go back and reduce the shim thickness. I'm more concerned with fuel economy than having full manual control of my rack position, so I do plan to eliminate the smoking.

If you can remove the ALDA and have little to no visible smoke at any time, your IP is way low on fuel delivery. A properly calibrated pump really should have the ALDA installed, and adjusted correctly. I understand why people are yanking the ALDA on pumps with 200kmi on them, but it's really a band-aid for a deeper issue. But, since it's free, and relatively effective... it's popular!

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This makes perfect sense, Dave, however the 0-60 time of 10.7 for the '86 doesn't correlate with low maximum fuel delivery. It's either that or the G-tech pro cannot be accurate.

I'd lean towards the G-Tech being a little off. Try going to a dragstrip to get some real concrete numbers. It's a lot of fun, and pretty cheap too... usually around $20-25 for an afternoon or evening (typically 3-5 runs down the strip). The 1/8 mile times should be pretty equivalent to a 0-100kph, mine were usually around 11 seconds to 63mph or so. I've also taken the '87 to the dyno (there's a thread on that posted here).

The 602 on my '87 190Dturbo ran a little weak, ALDA was adjusted and it perked up nicely without any smoke. I don't like smokey takeoffs, diesels have enough PR problems and I don't want my cars to look like they are in poor tune. Personally, unless the tires are smoking also, I feel that visible exhaust smoke makes a car/truck look like a POS.

No need to remove the ALDA unless it has failed completely, then I'd replace not eliminate.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Well long story short i think i broke my ALDA, was wondering if anyone here would be willing to sell theirs. Thanks in advance.

Here's one that just ended on eBay with no bids... you could probably contact the seller and still buy it:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=290352274097

I'd also check the local Pick & Pull. The same ALDA will work from roughly 1980 through 1995, on all turbo models. Of course with any used ALDA, the shaft seal may leak, in which case you'd want to replace it. More info on that is at this link.

I removed my ALDA then put it back on because I didnt know what to do with the gaping hole it left in the top of the IP without it there. Also what do I do with the rod the is sticking up, I believe this is the rack limiter rod, what should I do?

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Regards,
Ian White

1995 E300 Diesel w124 OM606
2014 E550 w212 M278 biturbo

2001 BMW 740i E38 M62 (past)
1981 300SD w126 OM617 (past)

There's no "gaping hole". If the rod really bothers you, you can make a threaded cap for it. Otherwise, simply leave the rod protruding. There is a seal around the rod.