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#16
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I finally just bought a new PS pump off of ebay and now it works. Long and drawnout but now I don't even care because I have my PS back. The pump only cost me $30 total including shipping which was $20.
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#17
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i believe that MB calls for ATF in these PSP's.
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#18
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That was back in the day circa 1985 when ATF was way different so now in the pump we should run straight PS fluid.
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#19
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Exactly how has the fluid changed? Saying "it's changed" doesn't really tell us much. Can you still buy the same fluid for a older transmission? I believe auto parts stores still sell dextron.
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#20
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Well you must do your own independent investigation as to how it has changed because I can not tell you. What I can tell you is that from research on this site I know that everyone is supposed to now use regular PS fluid.
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#21
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I believe its still OK to use ATF through the W123s, At least thats what "Der Diesel Dr" says. Its allot thinner than "power stearing" fluid. I've been using it for some time now, no problem.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#22
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Power Steering Pump re-seal
Haven't rebuilt mine yet, but I suspect those vanes in the rotor have to be oriented correctly; IE, with the rounded, machined edge outward, to face the oval-shaped 'pump chamber'. From the appearance of the machining on mine, I wouldn't think the pump would work correctly - if at all - if the more 'squared' edge of these vanes were oriented outward...
I'll have more experience with this in a day or so... ------------------------------------------------- Update: this project is now done, and the power steering is better than it's ever been. One gotcha: I made the mistake, initially, of not fully compressing the three internal elements of the pump 'core': front plate, ovoid pump 'chamber' and the backing plate. Correct assembly can be tested by checking the back-and-forth play in the shaft; there should only be less than a 1/16th inch from the shaft-rotor play, and no more. I had not compressed these parts fully, and the loading spring was not adequate to push them together once assembled. Result? No pump pressure! Easy to fix with a correct reassembly. Some part numbers; hopefully this will help someone out there (this is all for a W126, an '83 300SD): Pump details: ZahnradFabrik Friedrichshafen A.G. (Schwab. Gmund) Mercedes #: 126 460 1480 type: 767 2900 446 Gasket Kit: A 000 586 84 46 (2 O rings, one Aluminum washer for pressure valve cover) Front Shaft Seal: A 018 997 60 47 Filter: A 000 466 21 04 Lou Last edited by DrLou; 12-29-2006 at 09:45 AM. Reason: updates |
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