car runs great but leaks fuel from under/behind injection pump when running. local independant wanted to replace IP. I was hoping there was a gasket or o-ring that could be replaced much cheaper. Seems logical ( )that if the car is running well then the IP is not "bad". Also I see many posts mentioning repair manual CD's. Where are these available? Thanks

I have exactly the same problem - a drop falling at 15 second intervals when car is idling (can't tell if more leaks at higher rpms).

Using mirror, I can see drops from rear cover of pump as if a gasket is bad.

Has anyone any experience in fixing such a thing. As the original post, I hope their is a way of fixing this leak without taking injection pump out.

This is the six cylinder 124 with the 603 engine

Same problem MB dealer said they can't replace the seals. New pump. $3000.00 and a month to order one.
Well now, the leak isn't THAT bad. We'll try some home remedies.

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1995 E300D

This is a list of seals available for a 603 IP. Really helps to pull the IP to replace the seals.

004 997 46 40 = bottom seal

001 074 37 80 = side seal

000 091 17 80 = fuel pump gasket

001 074 43 80 = rear seal

010 997 56 48 = shut-off valve o-ring

013 997 81 48 = idle solenoid o-ring

For the shut-off lever, remove the lever and find an o-ring that will fit.

If it's leaking from the control rod sensor connector (inboard of the shut-off actuator), you're SOL. The seal is inside the IP.

Delivery valves are another ball of wax. It's all in the archives.

Sixto
93 300SD

I may need to remove injection pump to try to fix a leak.
Can anyone point me toward some info on this process.
It looks lilke I'll need to remove intake manifold and some other things to get to the pump - it looks like quite an undertaking.

ANy hints, tips, etc greatly appreciated.

I have removed an injection pump on a 123 car, but this looks much more difficult.

I have another problem - the car was hit by severe hail recently - body not worth full repair, so its basically a sunk cost issue - and maybe not worth sinking additional money and time into.

Ahhhh, I needed the side part number! That's behind the lift pump correct? I have the others to reseal mine.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Before you go through all of that try the cheap fix. Get some high milage transmission stop leak. It will be by the transmission fluid. Take off the fuel filter, drain it, and fill it with the stop leak. Then fire it up and drive it around for a few miles. Within just a few miles my leak was fixed. I poured the rest of the bottle into my tank. It has been 8,000 miles since then with no further leaks.

Is this fuel related? Have you started using the new Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel (ULSD)? Search on it. This is becoming a common problem.

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

All the gaskets listed above will fix OIL leaks from the injection pump. For a FUEL leak, you need to replace the delivery valve O-rings. You'll need the special tool to do this (see photo below) and a torque wrench that reads down to 30Nm. The dealer is lazy and doesn't want to do the work, hence the $3k quote to scare you away (idiots).

I would NOT recommend a liquid fix of any kind, including using tranny stop leak in the fuel filter. These typically just swell the seals and are at best a temporary fix, at worst you'll end up with a destroyed pump. Replace the delivery valve seals properly, parts are <$20 total, plus the cost of the tool (about $40 from most dealers).

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

We'll see how temporary it is. It's already in there now. I'm at 8,000 miles since I put it in the filter. I'll let you know when it fails.

-Jim

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1995 S350D, Green with black leather interior.
Bought January 2008 w/ 233,xxx miles.
I did 22,000 miles during the first year of ownership.

On my 87 300D (603 engine) I replaced all 6 valve delivery seals and the fuel return lines. The fix is very easy and in the archives. You must however get the special splined socket to remove the valve from the IP. 4 of the 6 o-rings were broken or brittle and the other 2 were hardened. After replacing them (a couple of hours work because I went slow)...no leaks at all. Power was restored and the engine runs great. Before replacing the whole IP, replace the valve delivery seals (rubber o-rings and copper washer) and return lines. See if that fixes your problem.

clint

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81 300D N/A 130K miles (Nelly)
87 300D Turbo 80K miles (The Scalded Dog...because it runs like a scalded dog)
95 e320 Wagon 104K
2003 Sprinter 47K miles.
1999 Tandem Bicycle
One beautiful low miles wife (who likes diesels) (that's my wife holding the sign)

My son and I fixing Nelly's odometer