Please tell us about your experience, blueranger.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Yeah, what didn't work? You didn't cure your problem, or now your turbo doesn't spin?

Ok - I ordered a kit . Meanwhile ,it just seemed too easy to make an adapter for a short flex exhaust pipe run from the exhast manifold to under the car . I also cut a little metal plate and drilled some holes to block off the upper turbo oil supply line . I plugged the turbo return hole in the block with a rag . I started it up and had a fair amount of blue smoke and a slight miss . When I got it up to just below 1000 rpm the miss disappeared and the the car drove great (engine smooth , good oil pressure, good temps good AT shifts, AC works) with no smoke or on a 10 minute neighorhood low speed test drive . I returned home to find at oil leaking from where the return line was plugged and the smoke and miss returned at idle. I then opened the oil filler cap and saw what seemed to be strong puffs of blow-by smoke ( is this why the oil leaked at the rag" plug" ?). Next I cracked the injector lines and cylinder #2 only didn't change when that line was cracked .

Where to next ? Replace the non-firiing injector , Adjust valves ( what are the cold clearances for this engine ? Why does it smoke only at idle ? Does all of that blow-by mean rebuild time ?

Thanks

Diesel Purge may work to get the injector working again...

No valve adjustment on the 603 motors.

Idle smoke is due to the motor being inefficient as it's cold.

Got me on the blowby.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

You might want to pull the bad injector and see how it does on a test bench. One of our members will test it for you for $3.00 if you send it to him. If the injector tests OK, then it's time for a compression test. If the injector doesn't test OK, then change the injector.

As Hit Man mentioned, there is no valve adjustment.

I would not make any judgments on blowby until you've run the engine for at least 500 miles. Some of these engines run perfectly fine with a fair amount of blowby. Naturally, you can't do much about it unless you rebuild the engine. It's not cost effective to rebuild a 603. Better to find a replacement engine or a replacement vehicle. It will cost far less in the long haul.

I sent him a PM for the injector balance/clean from the member on here a while back with no reply. Is he still active?

I figure I may as well do the L's injectors while it's down for now.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

He's not on the board every day........for sure........but he has not made any mention to me to remove him from the rental program.

Try him again.

Looks like I'll email this time.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Yeah....even better.

Brian - A friend has a good injector I can try . I will follow through with a compression check as you suggested .

On the subject of the blowby I forgot to mention that it did not come out of the PCV elbow on top of the valve cover but only the oil cap hole . This I removed the valve cover and cleaned it. I also poured solvent down the PVC hole and it came out only from a little metal tube come out of the upper baffle in the valve cover . I put it back together and had no change (no blow-by out that elbow envent if oil cap is scewed down . . Can someone please explain the PCV circuit in the this vehicle ? -

Thanks you

The combustion gases that bypass the rings will accumulate and pressurize the crankcase unless they are vented. So, at the top of the valve cover, there are some baffles where, hopefully, the gases pass through and the oil remains. The gas and some residual oil is routed via the breather hose directly to the intake, downstream of the turbo. The engine then draws the gases/oil into the cylinders and it is burned in the regular combustion cycle.

The elbow at the top of the valve cover leads to the baffles in the valve cover. The oil fill cap leads straight into the top of the head. The blowby gases will escape from either opening if given the opportunity.

Removing the oil filler cap is a perfectly good way to check for blowby. As mentioned previously, it's just for information on the condition of the engine because there is not much you can do about it.

Brian - I have been having hard time finding all of the posts in this thread with "search" . When I type in "1987" I get the thread with only 14 replies .

It looks more likely that I am faced with either rebuilding or dropping in another engine . I don't care which replacement engine ( 5 or 6 cy turbo or non-turbo) as long as it is good condition has the least tricky installation . What will work ? - Thanks

I did a search using you user name, "rkpatt" and it immediately came up with this thread, with all 42 posts.

How did you come to that conclusion? Was a compression test done already? Was that injector checked out already? You don't have anywhere near the data necessary to condemn that engine.

I tried a different injector on # 2 and it ran a lot better . However there was still a lot of blue smoke and the puffing blowby .

I fabricated a compression gage out of an old injector housing plumbed to 500 psi pressure gage . I got readings of : #1-225 #2-125 #3-50 #4-250 #5-225 #6-125 . I put in a tablespoon on oil in # 2 and nothing changed, tired it in #3 and compression went up to to #150 .

It sure sounds like bad rings .

Is it worth doing leak down test at this point?


Can the oil pan the dropped whit the engine in the car to do a " poor
man's" rod bearing and ring replacement ?

Thanks

I have to tell you a story today.

I started the '86 SDL for the first time in about 30 days or so. Clouds and clouds of blue smoke. Ran rough for at least 90 seconds. Usually it clears up faster than this, but, I didn't run the glow plugs long enough.

Yes, the values for the compression are not good. But, again, if you can get the vehicle on the road and drive it for a few hundred miles, you might
find that things begin to improve with it. No guarantees, but, if it has been sitting for awhile, it needs a good run to get the rings to seat again and get all the carbon out of the cylinders.

I do believe that David managed to pull the oil pan, but it was very difficult to do. He had to raise the engine quite high to pull it off.

As for the probability of success in terms of replacing rings and bearings, I'll have to defer to someone who has attemped this and was successful. I don't have personal experience with such a task on the 603.