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#1
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92 300d 2.5l heating problem
went for a ride in the mountains about 5000' elevation and had an overheat. my brother in-law wasn't watching the temperture and the car died. towed the car home and it started up. one injector made nailing sounds and the temp rises to the red.
i flushed out the cooling system and changed the stat. i changed all the injectors. the car now runs really nice with more power. however, the temp runs up to around 120 near the red and my heater blows very cold ac air. i switch the heat to the full hot position and only ice cold air. i am gonna check on the mono valve... i hear a gurgling sound in the heater core when i turn the engine off. anyone got any ideas on whats wrong? |
#2
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Did u check the coolant level ? Is the radiator leaking ?
The heating circuit also contains the thermostat. Check the hoses, u could have one with a slow leak. R u burning any oil ? Oil leaks that needs attention. Let us know what u find out. |
#3
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my oil level is normal. no oil leaks although one of my injectors is leaking air. i removed the injector and the heat shield and checked it out. the heat shield is in with the tapered side down. i wrenched it back in at 100 ft lbs.
the injector still makes a tapping sound and i can feel air comming from it. the performance is great however. i checked the stat and it is in the right way --- you cant put it in the other way because the housing on the hose side is too shallow. also the stat can only seat at a certain placement because of a notch in the stat that accepts the housing. the stat is new and i dont know if wahler is any good --it cost $30 and i am guessing its a good one. the radiator feels warm all over but the hose going in at the top gets very hot and feels full of pressure. the lower hose is not collapsed and it is not as hot as the top hose. i dont have any coolant leaks as my garage floor is dry over night. i noticed that the temp decreases a bit when parked and i rev it. i am wondering if the water pump is lame. i hate to go buy a new one and replace it only to find out that it isnt the problem. is there a way to determine if the pump is working properly? my heater doesnt work but i can live with that --- it doesnt get cold here in hawaii. but it seems the heater went out the same time as the overheating incident in the mountains. |
#4
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The water pump may be the problem. Do u see any coolant in the pump peep hole?
I believe the 602's do have small black hose at the bottom of the pump that does sometimes drain some coolant. Do not mistake that for a leak. Another guess - air in cooling system ??? |
#5
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i will remove the top radiator hose and fill it and see what happens...does the air work its way out on its own? should the overflow tank be full to the top? i filled it to the top and it overflows out the drain hose. The water sets about an inch from the top when it cools.
i will check out the water pump tomorrow ... is it a big job to change? looks like a lot of work getting in there. looks like the radiator would have to come out to do it. and thanks man |
#6
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The water in the overflow tank should be about the height of the middle seam.
Look at the bottle and there should be an arrow that shows where the coolant level should be when cold. |
#7
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Be careful with that baby until you get her fixed. You need to guard that aluminum head with your life. Hopefully it is not toast already... You need to do a pressure check on the cooling system. Good luck
__________________
My Daily : 96 E-300 Diesel with 195,000 miles Retired: 92 300D 2.5 T 345K miles and for sale Retired: 95 E320 157K miles and currently parked with blown engine Both retired cars are for sale as is my w124 shop inventory |
#8
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well i filled up the radiator hose and it works --- 85 degrees and holding.
thanks to everyone i have saved a lot of time and money... thank you |
#9
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well crap!! i just returned from a trip and drove my car and it started heating up again...
well i pulled the top hose off and it needed to be filled. i later noticed that there was a hair line crack on the plastic radiator at the top hose area. i am guessing that air is getting sucked back in when the engine cools. i will buy a new radiator... do you think it would be a good idea to change out the water pump while i got the radiator off? its like $80 for a pump.. i got 175k miles on the car... is it hard to put the belts back on? how can i figure out how tight the belts need to be? thanks |
#10
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Removing the belt is a piece of cake! Here's some threads to get you started:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=595167 The tensioning system automatically tightens the belt to "proper" tension. |
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