Lower Ball Joint Replacement Question - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

apache · #76 01-21-2006, 07:17 PM

Yes on the pictures.

BTW, what brand of ball joints are you putting in? You are working on a W126 right? Thanks

Whiskeydan · #77 01-21-2006, 07:57 PM

I just returned from the test drive after replacing the guide rod bushing on the left side as well as that lower ball joint.
I'm sure the car is in need of an alignment but, the ('85 W126) drives very nice and tight now. Like new again! I forgot just how much noise that leather can make.

I installed Lemforder part #116-333-09-27 ball joints as I heard they were a MB supplier. They look almost identical to the oem part I removed and they have a very nice translucent boot.

I am awaiting an email from Brian Carlton to make sure he can host the pics.
I have plenty of very detailed shots of the ball joint install using the AutoZone press as well as the guide rod bushing.
I did not want to waste valuble space on the forum.

For comparison, I would rate the guide rod bushing replacement job a 5-6.

Would have finished the job sooner but, I had a very strange distraction. Two stray dogs appeared at my feet and I heard an old woman in the street calling to them.
I chased the dogs out and watched the old woman as she walked towards them fall smashing a Dr Pepper bottle between her head and the street pavement.

She refused any help (remember, I'm pretty greasy looking about now) so, I picked up the glass and made sure she was not badly injured. She got up and walked off with the dogs following. Weird.

Dan

Whiskeydan · #78 01-21-2006, 11:40 PM

The Autozone press #27023.

Whiskeydan · #79 01-21-2006, 11:41 PM

Pressing the ball joint into the spindle.
Note: You do not use any adaptors on the non-threaded end of the clamp.

Whiskeydan · #80 01-21-2006, 11:46 PM

Finished. Boot carefully re-installed.

whunter · #81 01-22-2006, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Pressing the ball joint into the spindle.
Note: You do not use any adapters on the non-threaded end of the clamp.

These pictures are correct for the kit shown.
It is a case of working with what you have.
I have done it in the same manner at a couple of Euro garages, never had any damage, durability did not appear to be affected, the last group of cars I did that way was in 1983, and I worked on them as needed for five years, without any sign of ball joint wear, it was a commission shop, we all actively looked for any possible sale.
I will take pictures, and make a DIY with my kit, when the Rolls-Royce is out of my garage, but there are weeks of work yet to be done on it.

pwogaman · #82 09-04-2006, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Whiskeydan

Pressing the ball joint into the spindle.
Note: You do not use any adaptors on the non-threaded end of the clamp.

Thanks a million!!! The Autozone loaner did the trick! I just finished changing the ball joints on my 85 300SD. Everything worked exactly as Whiskeydan said it would. My worries about having to cough up big bucks to pay someone else to install the ball joints were totally unfounded. Tomorrow I'll return the Autozone loaner and get 100% of my deposit back.

zebra · #83 11-09-2006, 04:35 PM

I'd like to do the job but reluctant to take everything off (though I did the rotor change before. I like to know if this is possible (leave everything on) and procedure. I guess I should do the following:

1. Compress the spring ( is this necessary? )but not touch the shock absorber.

2. take off the tie rod end arm.

3. Put a stand jack under and take off the low control arm off the ball joint.

4. push off the ball joint ( I don't know if I can use the c- clamp tool

5. Use the C- Clamp to push the new ball joint in.

Any comments on the procedeure?

Whiskeydan · #84 11-10-2006, 01:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zebra

I'd like to do the job but reluctant to take everything off (though I did the rotor change before. I like to know if this is possible (leave everything on) and procedure. I guess I should do the following:

1. Compress the spring ( is this necessary? )but not touch the shock absorber.

2. take off the tie rod end arm.

3. Put a stand jack under and take off the low control arm off the ball joint.

4. push off the ball joint ( I don't know if I can use the c- clamp tool

5. Use the C- Clamp to push the new ball joint in.

Any comments on the procedeure?

It's all pretty obvious when you pull the rotor and have a look.
You will need to remove the spindle in order to hammer the old ball joint out.

No need to compress the spring.

Good luck.

tobybul · #85 11-10-2006, 10:40 AM

Trust me, you will need the 2 tools DannyM showed. NAPA sells the top one and I ordered the lower one online. Look for my post on this. If the SD is like my 300D, its best to take the spindle off. If you've gone that far into it anyway, it does not take that much more to pop off the upper control arm.

I started with the fork but I felt its not a good tool tool as it bangs up everything it encounters. Plus, it will TEAR a boot such as what happened to me with the upper arm. Some people swear by it. But as soon as I used those 2 tools, voila!!!! easy as pie. I will NEVER use the fork again.

I did use the AZ press tool. Its ok but still require some pounding. Better have a big hammer on hand.

Next time I do this, I'll bring the spindle to NAPA's machine shop and have them remove the old bj and press the new one in. For $15 or less, its worth it.

tobybul · #86 11-10-2006, 05:29 PM

W123 Ball Joint and tie rod extractor

Hit Man X · #87 11-10-2006, 06:31 PM

So the upper joint can be replaced without buying the entire upper arm?

Brian Carlton · #88 11-10-2006, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

So the upper joint can be replaced without buying the entire upper arm?

..........not on any of yours........

tobybul · #89 11-10-2006, 08:56 PM

Unless the upper bj is totally worn - and usually, it should be fine unless the boot tore. In which case the boot can be replaced as long as the boot just got torn recently and the joint is not rusted out inside.

Not familiar with the SD's but if its set up like the D's, it can be fixed. You have to buy the boot from the dealer. I comes with a new ring tension spring. I replaced the boot of my upper arm joint becuase I mistakenly used the @%#& fork to try to pop off the spindle from the joint and tore the boot.

I ended up ordering the OTC 7315 tool which separated the spindle from the joint effortlessly. I think this tool is a must have....

Brian Carlton · #90 11-10-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Unless the upper bj is totally worn - and usually, it should be fine unless the boot tore. In which case the boot can be replaced as long as the boot just got torn recently and the joint is not rusted out inside.

With the age of the UCA bushings and the questionable condition of the ball joint, it's usually not worth the effort to screw around with it. The replacement OCAP's are about $55. or so. They seem to work acceptably well on the SDL.